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Old 04-21-2016, 06:06 AM   #113
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I'm am obsessed by the quality of the manual generated in 1977 (compared to the leaflet that they issues in 1975 and 1976).....
I am thinking I may ring up Airstream and just for a price for part number #101113 stretch formed segment - lower curbside, just because I can!

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Old 04-21-2016, 06:27 AM   #114
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This was bugging me so I went back to the few photos I took when dismantling the grill, zoomed in and found the evidence



There are 4 holes each side so one would assume there should should be 8 bolts in use, on the donor the lower lower has sheered off at some point so only the lower was in use, and upper upper was through bolted, but there was just an empty hole at the upper location.

HOWEVER.....if you look in the manual it says only 4 bolts should be used (which must be a top and bottom on each side). So it appears 2 of the holes on each side were not designed to be used, which sort of assumes if there are more than 4 in place then the guys at the factory or a PO has used more than needed?



I understand Gregg's message and that was what it started to try and do when I mentioned ' dismantling the grill'. I didnt have to do any of that on the donor.

Wow, this is getting confusing!

Looking closer at the picture you took Martin, it appears there are four holes for bolts on each end that tie the side castings to the center section PLUS bolts at each end on top. I'm wondering if Airstream originally intended to use 10 bolts but changed their mind after finding out they couldn't get them all to line up at the same time!

Peanut had bolts only at the bottom (4 total) and 2 at the top. The lower left bolt near the power steering gearbox is the one giving me the most grief.
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:33 AM   #115
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Wow, this is getting confusing!

Looking closer at the picture you took Martin, it appears there are four holes for bolts on each end that tie the side castings to the center section PLUS bolts at each end on top. I'm wondering if Airstream originally intended to use 10 bolts but changed their mind after finding out they couldn't get them all to line up at the same time!

Peanut had bolts only at the bottom (4 total) and 2 at the top. The lower left bolt near the power steering gearbox is the one giving me the most grief.
Sure is....the donor was only using 2 of those 4 bolts that hold the side to the center - nothing else
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:58 AM   #116
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I understand Gregg's message and that was what it started to try and do when I mentioned ' dismantling the grill'. I didnt have to do any of that on the donor.
I was wondering about that as well. Maybe Gregg could provide more detail about why the decorative grille portion needed to be removed from the cast center section(s).
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Old 04-21-2016, 07:17 AM   #117
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Duh, it just hit me. If you were able to pivot the donor's grille down after removing the top bolts then I should be able to do the same thing with Peanut's. I've already removed the top bolts and 3 of the 4 bottom bolts and the 4th is already loose. If it pivots down then accessing that last bolt should be a piece of cake

I may be old but I'm still slow....

On a slightly different topic I just dropped the drive shaft off at the shop to have the u-joints and carrier bearings replaced. Should have it back in my hands by the end of the week if not sooner.
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Old 04-21-2016, 07:40 AM   #118
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Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
I'm am obsessed by the quality of the manual generated in 1977 (compared to the leaflet that they issues in 1975 and 1976).....
I am thinking I may ring up Airstream and just for a price for part number #101113 stretch formed segment - lower curbside, just because I can!

I'm so used to working blind that I don't even think of looking at the "service manual" for Peanut! I agree its as good or better than the manual for the 84 310. To the best of my knowledge there was NO service manual of any kind issued for 1974. If you have something for 75/76 I'd sure be interested in looking at it! The only documentation that came with my 74 was the Owners Manual which is totally different than the service manual.

I would definitely contact Airstream about a price for panel 101113. The panel needs to be replaced no matter what and using one that fits right the first time would make the replacement effort go a lot quicker and easier.
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:09 PM   #119
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As it turns out this grille had ALL 10 bolts installed

Four on each side and one at the top on each side. Not sure why I didn't think about using my small 3/8" inline impact wrench but once I woke up to the fact that I owned one I managed to use it to remove four of the last five bolts. The final one in the picture below hand to be cut with a hack saw.
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Thinking about it later and looking at those phillips screws holding the grille bars in place I can see why Gregg removed the grille bars. That would provide much better access to the side bolts.

I totally agree with the Airstream manual where it says to only use 4 bolts. As Martin found on the donor, if the bottom two bolts are left in, it would make removing and installing the grille relatively easy. Easy enough that if you need access to the front just lower the grille.

Turns out the right end grille piece that's damaged was mainly being held in place by all those bolts. I think there is one rivet left holding it to the sheet metal.
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All of the front brake components arrived today along with the master cylinder and the hydroboost. However next up on the list is to try and figure out how to move the a/c condenser out of the way without disconnecting the lines. I think the engine oil cooler should be able to be disconnected and removed to get it out of the way. That will certainly provide better access to the condenser.
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Old 04-22-2016, 04:59 PM   #120
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Apparently words gotten out that there's a new Argosy in town. One of the neighborhood Toads decided to check things out and decided Peanut would be a nice place to relax for a while.
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He wasn't at all concerned with me taking a few pictures
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Old 04-22-2016, 06:08 PM   #121
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Cute critter!


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Old 04-23-2016, 09:32 AM   #122
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On my unit there is one 5/15-18 bolt installed vertically and two 1/4-20 bolts installed horizontally in each end of the upper cast cross bar of the grille. The lower cross bar has two 1/4-20 bolts install horizontally on each end. No pivot bolt like in the donor unit.

Since the three vertical bars of the grille assembly have ends that are easily broken, I have always removed the grille separately - I think a personal preference option.

The oil cooler I just unbolted the brackets from the radiator sub-frame and tied it the whole assembly off to the driver's side out of the way.

The condenser and receiver/drier - another story. I looked for a way to swing them out of the way but the AC lines on my unit did not flex enough to accomplish that. I disconnected and removed the both of them. Upon reinstallation I rebuilt the AC and converted over to 134a. That rebuild is a whole another story. It really works great now and here in Texas the AC is just about a necessity.

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Old 04-25-2016, 06:47 AM   #123
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On my unit there is one 5/15-18 bolt installed vertically and two 1/4-20 bolts installed horizontally in each end of the upper cast cross bar of the grille. The lower cross bar has two 1/4-20 bolts install horizontally on each end. No pivot bolt like in the donor unit.
Peanut had the same bolts installed on the bottom horizontal bar and also had the same bolts installed on the upper horizontal bar. Total of 10 bolts holding the grille assembly in place. The two lower most bolts if left in place allow the grille to rotate down when all other bolts are removed. Kinda handy to a point.

Quote:
Since the three vertical bars of the grille assembly have ends that are easily broken, I have always removed the grille separately - I think a personal preference option.
That's probably a smart move and I agree that would be the best way to do things. Were the phillips head screws on the vertical bar section easy to remove or do they have a tendency to break?

Quote:
The oil cooler I just unbolted the brackets from the radiator sub-frame and tied it the whole assembly off to the driver's side out of the way.
If the Toad ever decides to vacate the engine compartment I'll see see about unbolting the engine cooler

Quote:
The condenser and receiver/drier - another story. I looked for a way to swing them out of the way but the AC lines on my unit did not flex enough to accomplish that. I disconnected and removed the both of them. Upon reinstallation I rebuilt the AC and converted over to 134a. That rebuild is a whole another story. It really works great now and here in Texas the AC is just about a necessity.
From looking at the hoses on the condenser I've been wondering if it could be swung upwards. My concern is the hoses would be to stiff and also we don't even know if the system is charged. I know the compressor doesn't kick on when the AC is turned on but I've not spent any time trying to figure out what might be wrong. To many other issues to deal with just to get it to move under it's own power!
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:50 AM   #124
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About the only thing I managed to get done on Peanut this weekend was to install the drive shaft. I had new u-joints installed and the carrier bearing replaced by a local shop and picked it Saturday morning.

I gotta mow tonight and tomorrow so hopefully later this week I can get time to do more work on removing the radiator.


Brad
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:43 AM   #125
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Brad,
1. I had not thought of pivoting the grille down, I will have to look at that feature for future use. In the case of removing the radiator, I tried to get as much out of the way as possible. The radiator and its frame are heavy and unwieldy, the grille could get in the way.
2. The Phillips head screws are easily removed. They screw into self threaded holes in the ends of the vertical bars. The vertical bars are extruded aluminum U-channel with ends trimmed. The extruded Aluminum end can break off easily. I have had to repair several of mine.
3. On the AC condenser, take a close look but you will probably have to remove both the condenser and receiver/drier. In putting them back I used a two-stage vacuum pump from Harbor Freight. It worked well for this task and gave me a chance to look for leaks - which I had.

Gregg
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:25 PM   #126
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Brad,
1. I had not thought of pivoting the grille down, I will have to look at that feature for future use. In the case of removing the radiator, I tried to get as much out of the way as possible. The radiator and its frame are heavy and unwieldy, the grille could get in the way.
Pivoting the grille down for general maintenance or access I would think would be ok. I think it would just get in the way for radiator removal. My old 310 had the leveling jack pump sitting on top of the cross member just behind the grille and it was a royal pain to try and work on. It never occurred to me at the time that the grille could be removed or pivoted down. That would have made life SO much easier! Live and learn

Quote:
2. The Phillips head screws are easily removed. They screw into self threaded holes in the ends of the vertical bars. The vertical bars are extruded aluminum U-channel with ends trimmed. The extruded Aluminum end can break off easily. I have had to repair several of mine.
That's good to know. My first thought was it was screwed into the casting which could have caused problems.

Quote:
3. On the AC condenser, take a close look but you will probably have to remove both the condenser and receiver/drier. In putting them back I used a two-stage vacuum pump from Harbor Freight. It worked well for this task and gave me a chance to look for leaks - which I had.
I have a Robinair Recovery/Recycling system but it won't draw a vacuum for testing and filling the system so I will eventually need need a vacuum pump to work on my Argosy air conditioning system. Hence, I've been looking at this 2-state vacuum pump on ebay.
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