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Old 04-16-2016, 04:05 PM   #85
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A well equipped parts house may be able to match the arc of the shoes to the drum. This was a common process back in the day when disc brakes weren't so prevalent.

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Old 04-16-2016, 05:32 PM   #86
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Dennis, I thought about that but I had checked the arc of the shoes against the drum and they were fairly close, close enough that I don't think that's the actual problem.

I'm thinking it's possible that it could be a build up of tolerances. The drums are brand new and the shoes are brand new. If the drum is borderline small and the shoes are borderline large this might result in what I'm experiencing.

After thinking about it for a while I think filing the top corners is likely the best option. At this point I can't see it hurting anything.
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Old 04-16-2016, 05:57 PM   #87
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Works for me Brad!
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Old 04-16-2016, 06:15 PM   #88
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Works for me Brad!
Isn't it a little late for you to awake?!

Now that I've had a chance to relax for a while I went and looked at the shoes in question. Laying a straight edge along the top edge of the lining there seems to be a slight bow up where the rivets are. I'm thinking the rivets caused the lining to curve some during assembly.

After I get done mowing tomorrow I'll see if I can file the corners down some.
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Old 04-16-2016, 06:21 PM   #89
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Jet lag Brad...full day at work yesterday, straight to airport, overnight flight (no sleep), 100 mile drive to our UK home, shower, full-day doing chores should = a great need for sleep, but that disappeared around 7pm local time so it will probably be 3am local before I drop off.
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Old 04-16-2016, 06:29 PM   #90
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I don't envy you. I remember trips like that and I'm really glad those days are over for me
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Old 04-17-2016, 03:43 PM   #91
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After about 20 minutes of filing the tops of the shoes and trial fitting the drum I finally got the drum to slide into place with no rubbing. Adjusted the shoes out some and the drag feels fairly even.

The rear brakes are complete except for a final adjustment of the shoes. I will hold of doing that until the front brakes are done. Peanut now has Bella's old wheels and tires on the rear.

Reworking the front brakes, replacing the u-joints and carrier bearing on the drive shaft and probably replacing the radiator are the hot ticket items left to go before Bella can be driven.
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Old 04-17-2016, 05:08 PM   #92
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After about 20 minutes of filing the tops of the shoes and trial fitting the drum I finally got the drum to slide into place with no rubbing. Adjusted the shoes out some and the drag feels fairly even.

The rear brakes are complete except for a final adjustment of the shoes. I will hold of doing that until the front brakes are done. Peanut now has Bella's old wheels and tires on the rear.

Reworking the front brakes, replacing the u-joints and carrier bearing on the drive shaft and probably replacing the radiator are the hot ticket items left to go before Bella can be driven.
I owe you big time Brad.

its one thing to be willing to house Peanut for a while, its another matter to put in the time and effort you are doing.

You will have to teach me how to run your mower so I can put in some sessions to allow you to get back to rebuilding your own MH.
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Old 04-17-2016, 07:28 PM   #93
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I owe you big time Brad.

its one thing to be willing to house Peanut for a while, its another matter to put in the time and effort you are doing.
I needed something to do in my spare time

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You will have to teach me how to run your mower...
I wouldn't wish that on my worst enemy! Mowing is a necessary evil

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...so I can put in some sessions to allow you to get back to rebuilding your own MH.
I'm still getting small things done on my Argosy. Even the small things have to get done so I'm not worried about it.

There is no doubt that mechanically Peanut is definitely in a lot worse shape than any of us anticipated. The rear brakes were literally non-existent and the drive shaft is scary as heck. There are no needles in two of the 4 bearings on the u-joint that connects to the differential. I keep hoping the radiator just needs to be flushed but I'm not holding my breath.

Getting closer
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:05 PM   #94
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I dropped the drive shaft this evening so I can get the u-joints and carrier bearing replaced.

I would have to say this is the worst u-joint I've ever seen that was still in use.
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There's enough rust inside the u-joint that the damage has to have been that way for a LONG time. The needle bearings are long gone and it scares me to even look at it
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Old 04-19-2016, 08:50 PM   #95
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Yikes! The only thing that's holding that together is force of habit. That had to be vibrating like hell....


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Old 04-20-2016, 01:51 AM   #96
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I just keep thinking back that the shop in Florida told me all Peanut needed as as tires to let me drive it to yours.....

With the non-existent brakes, generator floor about to give way, the radiator being shot and this they obviously have a very different idea of drive-able to mine!
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Old 04-20-2016, 05:17 AM   #97
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I just keep thinking back that the shop in Florida told me all Peanut needed as as tires to let me drive it to yours.....

With the non-existent brakes, generator floor about to give way, the radiator being shot and this they obviously have a very different idea of drive-able to mine!
What they meant was it was drive-able enough to get it out of there shop and out of their hair

When it was delivered and I actually tried to drive it I was so focused on the brakes I wasn't paying attention to anything else. After the 1st 100 feet I realized I needed to get this thing STOPPED and turned around so I could get back to the side of the building where it was safe! During all of that time my max speed was probably 10 mph or less.

I need to start researching how to get the radiator out. I'm hoping the front center grille section is all that would need to be removed to allow enough clearance for the radiator. There are enough differences between this Argosy and my Argosy that the process is somewhat different.
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:52 AM   #98
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The access on the donor is pretty straight forward. Remove the two bolts that clamp the center grille to the headlight castings and the grille pivots forward. Remove the lower bolts (between the grille and the castings) and the center comes right out.

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