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Old 04-12-2016, 07:26 PM   #71
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Forgot to mention Peanut's new brake drums arrived today. I decided to throw a coat of paint on the first one to try and slow the rusting process down a little. With luck I'll try and install the hub tomorrow after work.

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The second will get painted later tomorrow.
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Old 04-12-2016, 07:30 PM   #72
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Brad

That is a preformed front quarter the one, I took off the 28 was preformed. Martin has what looks like a good front quarter on the 28. As long as it wasn't damaged when the headlight casting was removed.It should be able to be removed and reused. It would be expensive to buy from Airstream.

After the bucked rivits are removed there will be 1/16 pre assembly rivits to watch for at the corners of the panels.
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Old 04-12-2016, 07:43 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by shepherd57 View Post
Brad

That is a preformed front quarter the one, I took off the 28 was preformed. Martin has what looks like a good front quarter on the 28. As long as it wasn't damaged when the headlight casting was removed.It should be able to be removed and reused. It would be expensive to buy from Airstream.

After the bucked rivets are removed there will be 1/16 pre assembly rivets to watch for at the corners of the panels.
Unfortunately (and at the time I didn't know it would be needed....) I made a budgetary decision to get AS NE to cut around the wheel well trims on the donor. So although the rest of the panel is good - the wheel opening so approx 2in larger than original. I guess hindsight is a wonderful thing!

I guess I need to find out how 'expensive', expensive actually is.
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Old 04-12-2016, 07:44 PM   #74
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It might be easier to just drill out the heads of the bumper bolts to remove the bumper. And then use heat to get the rest of the bolt out I had to do that on a couple of mine. Then I replaced them with 1/4" st steel counter sunk Phillips
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Old 04-12-2016, 07:48 PM   #75
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Then I would go with Brads idea and make a panel from the trim molding down. Brad is right that part is basically a flat panel. The upper section is the formed part
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Old 04-13-2016, 06:34 AM   #76
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I was reading through a list of old receipts that I found in one of Peanut's storage drawers last night and one of the items a previous owner wanted done was to "check wiring under dash - remove whatever isn't necessary".

I about fell out of my chair laughing!

After an untold number of owners modifications plus the original crappy wiring that statement probably applies to 50% of the wiring under our dashes.

Brad
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Old 04-13-2016, 07:33 AM   #77
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Its all those darn gauges and gizmos that people 'need'!
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Old 04-13-2016, 07:43 AM   #78
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Its all those darn gauges and gizmos that people 'need'!
Does that mean I don't need the 12 gauges that I'm planning on installing in my dash?
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Being an Automation Engineer by profession I guess I just have this fascination with gauges
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Old 04-13-2016, 06:39 PM   #79
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Brakes are complete for the right rear wheel. Still need to torque the lug nuts and slide the axle into place. Should be able to complete that tomorrow and get started on the left side.
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Old 04-14-2016, 06:32 PM   #80
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Moved on to the left rear brakes this evening. Got Peanut set on jack stands and the drum removed. Tomorrow I'll pull the backing plate and head to the car wash to clean and degrease it. With luck I might even have the backing plate re-installed by the end of the day. Things go faster when you have the parts on hand!

I still haven't found a smoking gun as to what might have caused the brake fluid to be missing from the master cylinder. I did notice this spot on the rear axle but I haven't tried yet to identify whether it's a leak from the differential or brake fluid from the brake line. I'll try and figure that out tomorrow.
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This sort of thing scares me. Airstream routed the propane line right down and slightly below where the wheel well sheet metal ends. Granted there is supposed to be a mud flap in place. However I don't think a mud flap is going to stop road debris or tire remnants from shearing off the mud flap and taking the propane valve with it.
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Not my idea of good design
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Old 04-14-2016, 08:00 PM   #81
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........... backing plate and head to the car wash to clean and degrease it.
Any room for one of these in your shop Brad to make cleaning parts for Peanut (and anything else) easier?

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ump-60769.html

Quote:
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I still haven't found a smoking gun as to what might have caused the brake fluid to be missing from the master cylinder. I did notice this spot on the rear axle but I haven't tried yet to identify whether it's a leak from the differential or brake fluid from the brake line. I'll try and figure that out tomorrow.
That area of the axle certainly looks suspicious, is there anything above it?

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This sort of thing scares me. Airstream routed the propane line right down and slightly below where the wheel well sheet metal ends. Granted there is supposed to be a mud flap in place. However I don't think a mud flap is going to stop road debris or tire remnants from shearing off the mud flap and taking the propane valve with it.

Not my idea of good design
Definitely looks like we need some POR15 on those wheel wells! Any chance the propane line can be re-routed?
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Old 04-15-2016, 05:40 AM   #82
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Any room for one of these in your shop Brad to make cleaning parts for Peanut (and anything else) easier?

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ump-60769.html
I have one of those parts cleaning tanks. They work great for somethings but 5 minutes at the car wash using their engine degreaser works wonders.

Quote:
That area of the axle certainly looks suspicious, is there anything above it?
Not sure yet. I'm going to scrape some of the goo off and see if I can get an idea of what type of oil it is. My first impression is it's gear oil from the differential.


Quote:
Definitely looks like we need some POR15 on those wheel wells! Any chance the propane line can be re-routed?
It should be a simple task to shorten the lines and install a new valve. I wouldn't consider trying to reuse the old valves, assuming they even work, because new replacements aren't that expensive. I've got a flaring tool for the copper pipe so it's just a matter of taking the time to do the modification.
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Old 04-16-2016, 02:34 PM   #83
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I think I found the smoking gun for the rear brakes not having any fluid. The left rear wheel cylinder was pretty much toast. Fluid was definitely flowing out past the dust seals. Add leaking brake fluid with leaking rear axle seals and you end up with a real mess inside the drum!

So today I finished installing the left rear backing plate assembly. Assembly time for the left side was about half of what it took me to assemble the right side
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The brake tube that screws into the wheel cylinder was frozen and I couldn't budge it. So I move to the Tee where the brake tube screws in and tried loosening it there. That was frozen as well but I did manage to break it loose but it snapped the brake tube as well. After discussing it with Martin I opted to fabricate new brake lines. I think they came out pretty good
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Old 04-16-2016, 02:47 PM   #84
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Now for the drama of the day

Everything was assembled on the left side except the brake drum. I slid it into place and started to torque the wheel bearing lock nuts. This is where things went down hill....

It took forever to reach the 50 ft/lb torque required to seat the bearings. Once you reach 50 ft/lbs you're supposed to back off the nut and re torque to 35 ft/lbs and then install the lock nut.

After reaching the 50 ft/lb torque the drum wouldn't budge. The right side spun nice and smooth at 50 ft/lbs but the left side was frozen solid. I back the nut off all the way and pulled the drum back to where it would spin. I then repeated torquing the nut with the same results. Tried the several times and finally pulled the drum off and didn't notice anything that would cause a problem.

In case I didn't get the backing plate on correctly I removed and re-installed it but it was definitely seated properly.

I then repeated the process about 4 times rotating the drum as I slowly torqued to 50 ft/lbs. While rotating the drum you could definitely here it dragging on the brake shoes. Looking closer at the brake shoes I found this:
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For whatever reason the top inside corners of the shoes are dragging o the drum surface. I verified the shoes were seated properly and couldn't find anything amiss there.

At this point I'm not sure what to do. The only thing I can come up with is to file the high spots down some to allow the drum bearings to be set to the right preload and then adjust the shoes for drag.

Anyone have any suggestions?!

Thanks,

Brad
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