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Old 04-10-2016, 10:25 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by shepherd57 View Post
Brad

On the 28 I took apart it had the same gap at the battery box. It looks like Airstream just cut the hole oversized and used strips of alum to close the gap.

Airstream quality control again
Gee, why doesn't that surprise me!

I've got plenty of scrap aluminum interior skin laying around so I guess I have what we need to fill the gap.
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:27 AM   #58
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Yes I had a 75 26ft and the battery's were in that same place behind the hood
I believe 74-76 Argosy motorhomes all had the batteries up front like that. I'm definitely moving mine to the side compartment where the black water tank used to be.

I prefer to have the front area accessible for maintenance work.
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Old 04-10-2016, 01:52 PM   #59
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Maybe Airstream prep'ed the inner skin for the larger battery box, but had a supply of the smaller boxes to use up - who knows!

My '78 donor has inner skins that are trimmed to the edge on the box and the existing 'door' trim comes down to meet the carpet on the battery box.



That said Bella still has the battery tray under upfront behind the engine access panel, and a single chassis battery sits there. The two house batteries are in the new pull-out tray, in the lower compartment level just forward of the rear wheels on the drivers side.
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Old 04-10-2016, 02:48 PM   #60
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Rough day trying to remove parts from the donor.

Lets start with the positives.....the fridge vent door is off. Took longer than expected (the theme for the day) as not only was it riveted to the outer skin, it acts as a closeout and the inner return was also riveted (luckily nowhere as frequently) to the inner skin.



Next up were the two grill end castings....there are only three rivets showing from the outside so that will be easy right? Well the three visible rivets (all the way through) are complemented buy around a dozen 'blind' rivets which go through the outer skin from the inside, and there is no access to drill. Only thing I could do was lever open a gap and then cut through them.









Now the not so good.... Despite a few days of soaking in penetrating fluid, the bolts on the bumpers will not budge with hand-tools. Its time to get serious and I will take my Honda 2000i next time to be able to run something with some torque/able to drill out the bolts.

One job I was able to do with hand tools was start to remove the drivers side rear banana wrap. The donor as the original ABS molding, and it is disintegrating in my hands. I wasn't planning on it, but it looks like a new one will have to be ordering.
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Old 04-10-2016, 04:55 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
Maybe Airstream prep'ed the inner skin for the larger battery box, but had a supply of the smaller boxes to use up - who knows!

My '78 donor has inner skins that are trimmed to the edge on the box and the existing 'door' trim comes down to meet the carpet on the battery box.
I will say the smaller battery box is definitely small! It looks like it would be a real pain to try and remove/install the batteries. Hopefully the larger battery box from the donor can be installed as it would make life a whole lot easier.
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:09 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
Rough day trying to remove parts from the donor.

Lets start with the positives.....the fridge vent door is off. Took longer than expected (the theme for the day) as not only was it riveted to the outer skin, it acts as a closeout and the inner return was also riveted (luckily nowhere as frequently) to the inner skin.

You can ignore my text about the fridge vent door! I guess I should have checked here first

Quote:
Next up were the two grill end castings....there are only three rivets showing from the outside so that will be easy right? Well the three visible rivets (all the way through) are complemented buy around a dozen 'blind' rivets which go through the outer skin from the inside, and there is no access to drill. Only thing I could do was lever open a gap and then cut through them.







Quote:
Now the not so good.... Despite a few days of soaking in penetrating fluid, the bolts on the bumpers will not budge with hand-tools. Its time to get serious and I will take my Honda 2000i next time to be able to run something with some torque/able to drill out the bolts.
Do you have one of these impact screwdrivers?

I will be trying mine to see if it will loosen the screws on my rear bumper. I can try Peanuts as well.

For some reason I was thinking they were only fastened with screws. I remember Keyair describing the work he did to his front castings when he removed them for polishing and I don't remember him mentioning anything about rivets.

We might have to look at some other method of fastening onto Peanut

Quote:
One job I was able to do with hand tools was start to remove the drivers side rear banana wrap. The donor as the original ABS molding, and it is disintegrating in my hands. I wasn't planning on it, but it looks like a new one will have to be ordering.
That's to bad. I found what's left of the original left rear corner in the closet. It's pretty beat up as well.
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:16 PM   #63
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I found this little coolant bottle in one of the cabinets.
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One of the receipts that I found mentioned that the shop told her to buy a replacement for the milk jug that is currently in the sitting in front of the radiator!
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I think the one she bought is just to small to use on a cooling system the size of this one. The link you sent me of the one from Andy appears to be the same size as the one she bought. Do you want to stick with the one on hand or do you want a larger one installed?
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:32 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post

Do you have one of these impact screwdrivers?

I will be trying mine to see if it will loosen the screws on my rear bumper. I can try Peanuts as well.
Yes Brad, or rather the HF version (http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html).

But I have tried two different units and today took a 3lb engineers hammer with me (yesterday I was tickling it with a little 16oz ball pein!) and was giving it a pretty good 'clout'. It seems the extended supports (onto which the bumpers screw) do a pretty good job of dissipating the impact
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:38 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
I found this little coolant bottle in one of the cabinets.
Attachment 260376

One of the receipts that I found mentioned that the shop told her to buy a replacement for the milk jug that is currently in the sitting in front of the radiator!
Attachment 260383

I think the one she bought is just to small to use on a cooling system the size of this one. The link you sent me of the one from Andy appears to be the same size as the one she bought. Do you want to stick with the one on hand or do you want a larger one installed?
Bigger must be better right?

Even a milk jug is better than the recovery system on the donor.....that overflow tube simply 'empties to atmosphere'

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Old 04-10-2016, 05:42 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
Yes Brad, or rather the HF version (http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html).

But I have tried two different units and today took a 3lb engineers hammer with me (yesterday I was tickling it with a little 16oz ball pein!) and was giving it a pretty good 'clout'. It seems the extended supports (onto which the bumpers screw) do a pretty good job of dissipating the impact
So much for that idea

I guess I better not hold my breath hoping that it will work on mine
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:44 PM   #67
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Bigger must be better right?
Depends on who you're talking too.......
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:50 PM   #68
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For some reason I neglected to get pictures of Peanut sitting on the big trailer that brought him from Florida to Kentucky. I contacted the driver and he sent me this one.
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I asked if he had more pictures, he said he would check and send them if he finds any.
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Old 04-12-2016, 06:53 PM   #69
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Whilst we make progress rounding up parts ready to bring Peanut back to some resemblance of usability, Brad and I have been chatting about best approaches for the dinged bodywork. The rear panel is quite straight forward once we can get the spare wheel holder out of the way, but what about the curbside front quarter? My idea had been to try and straighten and patch what is there, but has anyone got any experience with replacing these lower front panels? Are they preformed?

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Old 04-12-2016, 07:19 PM   #70
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Looking closer at the right front quarter of my Argosy I'm not so sure now that any of it was preformed. The only area that might have a slight curve formed into it is the lower front portion. Even then that curve could be a side effect of the sharp curve at the top front.
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My bet is if the old section is removed and laid on top of a flat sheet to draw the pattern that would probably be enough.

Your call...
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