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Old 04-05-2016, 05:29 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by jm2 View Post
Brad, any favorite brand of silicone hose?

or, is a silicone hose just a silicone hose?
Good question. Martin suggested using it in a previous conversation and I know Keyair ordered a bunch for his 345. I've not looked into who might sell the best stuff but will do so soon.

Brad
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:11 PM   #44
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1977 20' Argosy 20
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Brad,
To remove the heater hoses from the heater core, I have found that it is easiest to remove the heater unit from the passenger foot well area.

1. First remove the four screws that hold the blower mother in place from the outside front and remove the blower.

2. Second remove the two Blower Resistor screws also from the outside front.

3. Third disconnect the heater hoses at the firewall junction. (My 77 Argosy20 came from the factory with the hose junction at the fire wall.).

4. Fourth disconnect the two nuts on the two studs sticking out of the top of the blower housing under the dash inside. Then one bolt that screws down into the blower housing. These three fasteners connect the blower housing to a galvanized plenum under the dash.

5. The heater assembly will need to be pulled downward enough for the two studs to clear the galvanized plenum. Once clear the heater should be able to pull backwards inside with the temperature control cable connected to heater valve.

6. Disconnect the cable from the valve and then the heater can be removed from the motorhome.

Gregg
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:59 PM   #45
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Greg, great write up!

I'm not sure how soon I'll tackle that task. I need to see where the radiator is leaking so we know whether to pull the radiator or not. Once I know what's happening there I'll know when to start tearing into areas that will need hose replacement.

The goal at the moment is to get the rear brakes repaired so I can hopefully determine where the brake fluid went. Once the brakes are done I can run the engine long enough to see what's happening with the cooling system. I'll likely have to pull the dog house cover to get a better view of whats happening.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 04-09-2016, 05:27 PM   #46
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Today marked the start of scavenging parts from my 28th parts donor to try and resurrect Peanut.

Firstly, the battery tray. Turns out the key is the same as the generator cover I sent to Ben, so I'm really glad I copied that 'just in case'.



Took a few hours but eventually both the plastic box and door were removed. Only to expose a very wet/rotten wooded enclosure, which had obviously been leaking for a long while







Next up, off came the engine access panel and the grill.



Unfortunately to expose a radiator that has been leaking - guess Peanuts radiator will have to be re-cored rather than using the donor.



The air compressor looks new (although most of the fittings are old and rusty)



And the shower door is going to need a clean before it can be used.



Going back to AS NE for round 2 tomorrow
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Old 04-09-2016, 06:18 PM   #47
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Martin, I just realized the battery box from the donor is wider than the one in Peanut. Off hand I can't think of any reason we can't install the larger box in Peanut. I think the donor box would be nicer as it has a LOT more room for the batteries.
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For some reason there is an inside trim strip that has been removed from Peanut's battery box which hopefully the donor still has.
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This picture doesn't show much but there's a small puddle of water on the floor right below the air conditioner. My guess is the gasket between the shell and the air conditioner is rotted and needs replacing.
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Cleaned the right hand rear brake backing plate and installed new shoes and wheel cylinder. Wouldn't you know it I spent 45 minutes installing the shoes the first time only to realize I had them reversed
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The thicker longer pad goes to the rear and the shorter thinner shoe goes to the front. Surprisingly it took less than 5 minutes to swap the shoes around to their correct locations! Let's hope I can remember those installation tricks when I start working on the left side brakes!

I bought some brake cleaner to clean the drum before installing and once all the crap was cleaned away I found some nice rust pits The drums appear to have been turned at least once and with the severity of the pits we deemed it best to just replace the brake drums. Replacement drums should be at my place on Wednesday.
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Weather and mowing permitting I might have the rear brakes complete by next weekend. Once the rear brakes are done I'm removing the drive shaft to have new u-joints installed.


Stay tuned....
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Old 04-09-2016, 07:03 PM   #48
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SNIP

For some reason there is an inside trim strip that has been removed from Peanut's battery box which hopefully the donor still has.....
There is something strange going on as the donor battery box (ie the wooden structure the plastic box fits in) is the same size as the door frame. Actually the reason it was such a pain to remove is the frame of the door was screwed directly into the wooden structure using 2 inch screws, pinching the body panel between the two, there is no gap.
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Old 04-09-2016, 07:52 PM   #49
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There is something strange going on as the donor battery box (ie the wooden structure the plastic box fits in) is the same size as the door frame. Actually the reason it was such a pain to remove is the frame of the door was screwed directly into the wooden structure using 2 inch screws, pinching the body panel between the two, there is no gap.
I assume you're referring to the outer skin that was sandwiched between the door frame and the wood.

The gap in the pictures I posted is on the inside. For some reason that is a one inch gap along the top of the box on the inner skin. I don't understand why it was made with the gap but it looks factory to me.

Assuming we use the donor door which is larger we'll have to make a new wood box anyway. I'm betting the wood box in Peanut is rotted just like the one in the donor.
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:05 AM   #50
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Brad,
On the rear brakes. You might want to check the clearance between the cylinder bleed port and the leaf springs. On my 20 there was not room to attach a bleeder hose for bleeding. I removed the four bolts on the backing plate to get enough clearance for bleeding. That means the drums have to off of the axle. Take a look before you install the drums.
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:12 AM   #51
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Also, when you do get the drums reinstalled, the replacement axle flange gasket is a Felpro No 55350 for installing the axles.
Gregg
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:26 AM   #52
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Brad

On the 28 I took apart it had the same gap at the battery box. It looks like Airstream just cut the hole oversized and used strips of alum to close the gap.

Airstream quality control again
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:11 AM   #53
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Just an observation, but on my 75, 20ft the batterys are at the front behind the drop down panel
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:27 AM   #54
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Yes I had a 75 26ft and the battery's were in that same place behind the hood
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:21 AM   #55
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Brad,
On the rear brakes. You might want to check the clearance between the cylinder bleed port and the leaf springs. On my 20 there was not room to attach a bleeder hose for bleeding. I removed the four bolts on the backing plate to get enough clearance for bleeding. That means the drums have to off of the axle. Take a look before you install the drums.
Yeah I'd noticed how tight that area was! Poor design if you ask me.

I have a Mityvac with some right angle fittings that I plan on trying.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:23 AM   #56
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Also, when you do get the drums reinstalled, the replacement axle flange gasket is a Felpro No 55350 for installing the axles.
Gregg
Gottem already, thanks!
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