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Old 08-23-2016, 05:32 AM   #393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWallace View Post
Brad,
I started by holding a strip of paper trying to observe air flow - as crude as that is. However as I was checking I discovered a significant draft blowing back into my face from over the top of the radiator. Your mention of 1/8 inch rubber sheeting is what I was considering for the long term.
Attaching a rubber sheet to the Argosy won't be quite as straight forward as it is for the Classics with the horizontal radiator. The horizontal radiator is somewhat flush with the firewall and the rubber hangs straight down where the vertical radiator is somewhat recessed behind the firewall so attaching the rubber sheet will be a little more difficult.

Quote:
Stopping the back flow didn't solve my problem. Before changing the condenser, I am trying an electric fan mounted directly to the condenser. With the local rains, I haven't finished installing the fan yet. If the dedicated fan doesn't work then I am going to change to the larger condenser. A larger condenser will require rework of two of the refrigerant hoses.
There may be a way around the condenser size issue. I've found several references where people install two condensers in parallel.
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In your case you would just buy another condensor identical to the one you have and install them in a stacked arrangement. Your existing hoses should work and all you would need to make is a hose to go from the outlet of one condenser to the inlet of the other condenser.
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1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels, brake drums, windows & holding tanks left to sell)
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Old 08-26-2016, 10:52 AM   #394
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First the good news. I stopped by the fab shop to check out the progress of the new battery box. I had gotten a call earlier in the day from them wanting me to come verify dimensions prior to welding the box together. The fabrication work looked great and it's a nice tight fit around the cast frame.
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Some other good news was the radiator and power steering systems seem to be holding fluid with no leaks. I had filled them a couple of days ago and let them sit to see if any obvious leaks would show up. All was good on that front

Since there were no leaks it was time to start the engine, burp the power steering system and verify the coolant system was holding pressure. Ernie and I started the engine and everything was looking pretty good. Turned the engine off and checked the radiator and power steering fluid levels. Had to add a little bit to the power steering reservoir but other than that everything looked good.

Now the bad news.....

Started the engine back up and started to slowly turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and then all the way to the right. After about the third time as I got to the limit of travel when turning to the left I heard this "pop" sound and the steering immediately got stiffer and Ernie started yelling to turn it off!

Looked in the left hand wheel well and this is what we saw....
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Quite the mess

The fix for the power steering pressure hose didn't hold The fitting blew apart right where the pressure pipe coming off the pump connects to the hose. The fix had been to cut the old hose off, cut a new hose to length with a compression sleeve style of connector on the hose that was then pushed onto the original pump pressure pipe and the compression nut was tightened.

I was concerned about this arrangement due to the use of compression fittings but I was told they use this style of repair for power steering systems in tractors and other vehicles all the time. I do know the pipe wasn't in the best of shape but they felt it would do. I guess they (we) were wrong.....

So, it looks like I'll have to fabricate a fix of my own only this time I'll use double flare (inverted flare) pipe and find a section of hose that will accept double flare connections. While at the Get Together this spring Matt (mprokop87) described a similar repair he had to do to his 76 Argosy. I know his method works so that's what I'll try this time.

Now I have to figure out a way to get my hot pressure washer set up at the house so I can hose down the wheel well and get all this oil off my driveway. I think I just figured out what I'll be doing the rest of this weekend
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Old 08-26-2016, 11:45 AM   #395
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Oh crap....not so much for the hose but for Peanut 'dumping' (literally) on your drive Brad!

That said....Running engine!!!!!! No steam!!!!! Battery box looks great!!!!! I think that is 3 steps forward for 1 step back which is massively better than 'normal'.
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Old 08-26-2016, 02:23 PM   #396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
Oh crap....not so much for the hose but for Peanut 'dumping' (literally) on your drive Brad!
Just finished hot pressure washing the left front wheel well and the driveway. I think I got it clean enough in there to be able to work on the hose without getting to much fluid on me. The oil on the driveway cleaned up nicely as well. Now I need to do the rest of the driveway to make it look as clean as the spot under Peanut!

Quote:
That said....Running engine!!!!!! No steam!!!!! Battery box looks great!!!!! I think that is 3 steps forward for 1 step back which is massively better than 'normal'.
Peanut is slowly getting to the point where he is mobile. Fix the power steering hose, bleed the brakes and and I should be able to drive him down to the shop so I can do some welding in various places that need it.
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Old 08-26-2016, 03:39 PM   #397
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Is this the hose you need Brad.....right year, right chassis, right engine, motorhome specific?

http://www.autozone.com/suspension-s...?checkfit=true
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Old 08-26-2016, 04:43 PM   #398
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Unfortunately that hose doesn't fit, I've tried it

I should say it doesn't fit in it's present shape. I'm thinking about cutting the tube section where the L is. The major problem with the way it fit originally is it had to be twisted in such a way that it was stressing the hose and you couldn't get the brake mc cover off. There's nothing to lose by cutting and flaring the ends and using a union between them. Matt had to do something similar on his 76.

I'll look into doing something like that tomorrow when I get some time.

Oddly enough that same hose worked with slight tweaking on my Argosy. The difference is the pressure port on my hydroboost is on the opposite side. GM made a change between 74 and 75 that got rid of the external accumulator and instead included the accumulator as part of the hydroboost unit itself.
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Old 08-26-2016, 05:01 PM   #399
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I found a Gates version (355170) as well but appears to have the L pointing in the same direction.

https://www.amazon.com/Gates-355170-...ype=automotive

I agree with the union approach to let the end rotate - just another (unnecessary) complication.
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Old 08-26-2016, 05:09 PM   #400
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It's a shame the manufacturer had to quit making the original style hoses. I'm not sure what the hose spec'd now is originally designed for but it certainly doesn't fit our rigs.
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Old 08-27-2016, 02:13 PM   #401
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Ernie stopped by early this afternoon to put the first color coat on the front cap. It would appear that rolling the paint on actually comes out looking pretty good.
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This morning I ran into town and bought a couple of inverted flare fittings to use in modifying the suggested replacement power steering hose. As discussed yesterday I ended up cutting the tubing at the hydroboost end of the hose so I could add a coupling. I spent a few minutes in the shop flaring the ends of the two tubes and I'm happy to say both flares came out pretty good! I ended up tweaking a couple of the bends on the pump side of the tube to get more clearance between other pipes and the steel framework above. After it was all said and done I think the replacement hose is going to work out ok.
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I then refilled the power steering reservoir and started the engine. This time thee were no leaks or bursting hoses!

I ran the engine for 15 to 20 minutes and using a laser temperature thermometer I measured the temperature at the outlet to the radiator and it never got above 163. As near as I can figure after that much time the engine temp didn't get hot enough to open the thermostat. I hope this means Peanut's over heating problems are a thing of the past
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:01 AM   #402
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Looks like the old 454 has decent oil pressure as well!

The shop in Florida supposedly added $20 of gas (well that's what I got charged for) so maybe the gas gauge is working as well.
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Old 08-28-2016, 05:37 AM   #403
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The engine actually sounded pretty good. The choke functioned like it was supposed to as did the idle kick down with the pedal once it had warmed up.

Next task is to fill and bleed the brakes.
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:08 AM   #404
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Brad,
I had the same power steering hose fit issues as you. I searched everywhere and the replacements are made from the wrong pattern that doesn't work. I used the old hose tubing for the Hydroboost end and a new hose end for the pump. A hose fabrication place braised flare fittings on the tubes and fabricated a rubber hose with flare ends. That configuration fits nicely and in the future a replacement rubber hose can be fabricated with the correct flare fittings for replacement.
Gregg
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:21 AM   #405
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I think that I have resolved my AC issues. I still have the 20 X 15 condenser. I moved the oil cooler behind the condenser and added an electric fan mounted directly to the condenser. The temperatures and especially the pressures look a lot better. I will keep the double stack condenser or larger condenser as options. But running for 20 to 30 mins in the driveway, everything appears to OK in 95 degree weather.

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By the way the heater control labels are not correct for Peanut.
Fan: OFF, LOW, HIGH
Air Slider: left FLOOR, center FLOOR/DEF, right DEF
Temperature Slider: left OFF or COLD, right HOT

Gregg
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:01 AM   #406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWallace View Post
Brad,
I had the same power steering hose fit issues as you. I searched everywhere and the replacements are made from the wrong pattern that doesn't work. I used the old hose tubing for the Hydroboost end and a new hose end for the pump. A hose fabrication place braised flare fittings on the tubes and fabricated a rubber hose with flare ends. That configuration fits nicely and in the future a replacement rubber hose can be fabricated with the correct flare fittings for replacement.
Gregg
Gregg, I tried using the compression style of fitting with the original pipe sections that Napa recommended but it didn't hold. I think the original pipe was to corroded/pitted to hold well enough under pressure. Of course it's also possible I didn't assemble it right but the bottom line is it didn't work!

I ended up using the Gates 355170 hose. I had to tweak the bends a little and then cut one end and add a inverted flare coupling. I'm pretty sure it will hold just fine.

It's just annoying that no one sells the correct replacement anymore. Talk about planned obsolescence
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