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Old 08-27-2016, 02:13 PM   #401
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Ernie stopped by early this afternoon to put the first color coat on the front cap. It would appear that rolling the paint on actually comes out looking pretty good.
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This morning I ran into town and bought a couple of inverted flare fittings to use in modifying the suggested replacement power steering hose. As discussed yesterday I ended up cutting the tubing at the hydroboost end of the hose so I could add a coupling. I spent a few minutes in the shop flaring the ends of the two tubes and I'm happy to say both flares came out pretty good! I ended up tweaking a couple of the bends on the pump side of the tube to get more clearance between other pipes and the steel framework above. After it was all said and done I think the replacement hose is going to work out ok.
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I then refilled the power steering reservoir and started the engine. This time thee were no leaks or bursting hoses!

I ran the engine for 15 to 20 minutes and using a laser temperature thermometer I measured the temperature at the outlet to the radiator and it never got above 163. As near as I can figure after that much time the engine temp didn't get hot enough to open the thermostat. I hope this means Peanut's over heating problems are a thing of the past
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:01 AM   #402
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Chestfield , Kent
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Looks like the old 454 has decent oil pressure as well!

The shop in Florida supposedly added $20 of gas (well that's what I got charged for) so maybe the gas gauge is working as well.
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Old 08-28-2016, 05:37 AM   #403
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The engine actually sounded pretty good. The choke functioned like it was supposed to as did the idle kick down with the pedal once it had warmed up.

Next task is to fill and bleed the brakes.
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:08 AM   #404
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Brad,
I had the same power steering hose fit issues as you. I searched everywhere and the replacements are made from the wrong pattern that doesn't work. I used the old hose tubing for the Hydroboost end and a new hose end for the pump. A hose fabrication place braised flare fittings on the tubes and fabricated a rubber hose with flare ends. That configuration fits nicely and in the future a replacement rubber hose can be fabricated with the correct flare fittings for replacement.
Gregg
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:21 AM   #405
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I think that I have resolved my AC issues. I still have the 20 X 15 condenser. I moved the oil cooler behind the condenser and added an electric fan mounted directly to the condenser. The temperatures and especially the pressures look a lot better. I will keep the double stack condenser or larger condenser as options. But running for 20 to 30 mins in the driveway, everything appears to OK in 95 degree weather.

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By the way the heater control labels are not correct for Peanut.
Fan: OFF, LOW, HIGH
Air Slider: left FLOOR, center FLOOR/DEF, right DEF
Temperature Slider: left OFF or COLD, right HOT

Gregg
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:01 AM   #406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWallace View Post
Brad,
I had the same power steering hose fit issues as you. I searched everywhere and the replacements are made from the wrong pattern that doesn't work. I used the old hose tubing for the Hydroboost end and a new hose end for the pump. A hose fabrication place braised flare fittings on the tubes and fabricated a rubber hose with flare ends. That configuration fits nicely and in the future a replacement rubber hose can be fabricated with the correct flare fittings for replacement.
Gregg
Gregg, I tried using the compression style of fitting with the original pipe sections that Napa recommended but it didn't hold. I think the original pipe was to corroded/pitted to hold well enough under pressure. Of course it's also possible I didn't assemble it right but the bottom line is it didn't work!

I ended up using the Gates 355170 hose. I had to tweak the bends a little and then cut one end and add a inverted flare coupling. I'm pretty sure it will hold just fine.

It's just annoying that no one sells the correct replacement anymore. Talk about planned obsolescence
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:04 AM   #407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWallace View Post
I think that I have resolved my AC issues. I still have the 20 X 15 condenser. I moved the oil cooler behind the condenser and added an electric fan mounted directly to the condenser. The temperatures and especially the pressures look a lot better. I will keep the double stack condenser or larger condenser as options. But running for 20 to 30 mins in the driveway, everything appears to OK in 95 degree weather.

Attachment 270199

By the way the heater control labels are not correct for Peanut.
Fan: OFF, LOW, HIGH
Air Slider: left FLOOR, center FLOOR/DEF, right DEF
Temperature Slider: left OFF or COLD, right HOT

Gregg
That's good news about your AC working better

How did you mount the oil cooler to the radiator?

Of course I'm not surprised at all that Peanut's heater control labels aren't right. That just seems like something Airstream would do
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Old 08-28-2016, 02:05 PM   #408
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I used two pieces of aluminum angle from the local hardware store. The angles are mounted to the original holes for the oil cooler brackets. Then I used some bolts with 1.5 inch spacers to place the condenser out in front of the oil cooler.

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There is about 1.5 inches between the radiator and oil cooler. Then there is also about 1.5 inches between the condenser and the oil cooler.

Gregg
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Old 08-28-2016, 03:27 PM   #409
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Gregg, I'm really looking forward to hearing what the results are after you take it for a test drive in this heat. My only concern would be the distances between the various components. If I remember correctly manufacturers like to keep the condenser and various coolers close together to improve airflow through all of the components.

Are you controlling the electric fan via the trinary switch?
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:01 PM   #410
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Would moving the plate and overflow tank out of the center of it all help any ?
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Old 08-29-2016, 07:37 AM   #411
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Originally Posted by jonesy 1 View Post
Would moving the plate and overflow tank out of the center of it all help any ?
Peanut had the same plate and tank installed in front of the radiator. I removed it so I could pull the radiator for repairs. Now that the radiator is back in place I'm actually looking for a different place to locate the radiator overflow tank. It doesn't make sense to me why Airstream would hang something down in front of the radiator like that.

Maybe when these things were new they didn't overheat!
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Old 08-29-2016, 08:52 AM   #412
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When these units were new they didn't overheat. I could let the engine idle for long periods and no overheat at all.
These pictures are all with the front engine cover removed. The overflow tank is just behind the front engine cover when it is closed. The replacement overflow tank is not quite as large as the original and I am considering reducing the size of the plate to which the tank is mounted. So far I haven't had any overheating issues with the engine. My radiator was recored in 1993 and then my motorhome went into storage for 20 years. During that time I changed the antifreeze several times and started and ran the engine on a regular basis. When I had the radiator out last year, I looked inside the best that I could and everything looked clean and new.
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Old 08-29-2016, 09:08 AM   #413
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On the spacing of the condenser, oil cooler, and radiator. I understand that manufacturers prefer 3/8 to 1/2 inch spacing. However the original condenser was 1 to 1 1/2 inches from the radiator and the oil cooler was 1 1/2 inches in front of the condenser. The configuration that I have now was quick and easy with hardware available from the local Ace. Different length spacers can adjust the space between the condenser, oil cooler, and radiator which I can do later if needed. I plan on monitoring the temperatures and AC pressures for a while with the ultimate goal of being able to idle in 100+ degree weather without overheating. Highway speeds also will require some watching.

For the time being the fan comes on with the AC and stays on as long as the AC is on. I can easily change the fan to be controlled by a Trinary switch or by a temperature sensing switch.

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Old 08-29-2016, 12:34 PM   #414
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Gregg, that's all good information.

I think the thing that surprised me the most was the fact that after 15 to 20 minutes of idling in 90+ degree temps Peanut's temperature at the thermostat housing didn't get above 163 degrees.

Now, I had the doghouse cover open and the air conditioner isn't ready to use yet so there wasn't any real load but I still find it surprising that the thermostat still hadn't opened!

Brad
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Old 08-29-2016, 02:41 PM   #415
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Last fall I had two issues. One was a thermostat stuck open. The other was the fan clutch was stuck for full fan. In cooler weather (40 degrees or so), the engine just would not warm up enough to get any heat out of the heater. I replaced the thermostat and suddenly the engine warmed up like it should and the heater started working really well. Then in May when I drove to Austin and back I discovered that the noisy fan clutch needed replacement. With a new fan clutch installed, the noise went away and the AC issues started.
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Old 08-29-2016, 05:58 PM   #416
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Gregg, based on your description it would appear that with the size condenser you have in Jelly Bean you need more airflow across the condenser. It will be great if the electric fan solves the problem!

Brad
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Old 08-30-2016, 12:04 PM   #417
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Just got back from picking up Peanut's new battery box from the fab shop and I'm really happy with the work quality.
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If I get done mowing in time this evening I'll try sticking in the hole to see how it fits
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Old 08-30-2016, 05:47 PM   #418
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I decided not to mow this evening.......

Even with the drop down at the top of the box the battery seems to fit nicely. Just need to figure out how to hold the batteries in place.
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Test fit inside the coach. I had to trim the inner wall opening to allow room for the box to fit up against the cast aluminum frame on the outside.
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This is about as far as I can go with the battery box until the new wood floor is in stalled.
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Old 08-31-2016, 02:37 PM   #419
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Fits nice Brad.

Does the drop down also fill the previous gap in the inner skin above the batteries?
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Old 08-31-2016, 06:04 PM   #420
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I didn't drop the top of the box down until the box was past the wall. The box actually extends fully into the cockpit by about 1" before it drops down for seat clearance. I think I still need to do a little bit of trimming before I'm satisfied with the fit. There will still need to be some sort of trim on the inside wall around the box once everything is in place.
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I've set it up so the complete box assembly slides in from the outside.
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Still need to get two 8" straps for door support hangers and caulk around the seam where the box meets the frame with vulkem. The assembly can't be set in place until the wood floor is installed.
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