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Old 06-08-2016, 04:01 PM   #267
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Gregg,

Do you know what size alternator your Argosy came with from the factory?

I have to replace the one in Peanut which is currently a 94 amp unit.

Seems like it should be a little larger but I have nothing to go on as to what amperage to get.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 06-08-2016, 08:53 PM   #268
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Brad,
The original alternator from the factory was a 63 amp unit. I had to replace mine last year and replaced it with a Delco 63 amp unit. Last winter the bearing on the pulley end got quite noisy. Since I had a new bearing on hand, I just changed it rather than get it replaced. I bought the alternator from a parts distributer that handled Delco parts. It was a Delco rebuilt unit and on the inside the workmanship was not the best. After bearing replacement it has worked OK without any more issues.

Subsequently I replaced the starter with a Delco starter - what a disaster!
The one that I got was for later version 7.4 L engines. Sometime in the '80s GM changed from US dimensions to metric. The two bolts that hold the starter onto the engine changed to metric. Those two bolts are knurled and their dimensions and the starter bolt hole dimensions are critical to properly align the starter drive to the flywheel ring gear. In frustrationI went to a starter/alternator rebuild shop and he filled me in on the issues. The starter drive housing (nose piece) is either the older US dimension or the newer metric dimension. I got another starter from him and another drive housing. Now I have an extra starter.

At the same time I got a higher output alternator from him. This alternator housing slightly longer than the 63 amp alternator and the spacer between the lower alternator mounting and the engine is slightly different. The higher output unit will fit if I get correct spacer.

If you already have a higher output alternator you probably have the proper spacer for higher output alternator housings.

I have never had trouble with the 63 amp alternator handling the motorhome for the first 80K miles.

Gregg
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Old 06-09-2016, 05:46 AM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWallace View Post
Brad,
The original alternator from the factory was a 63 amp unit. I had to replace mine last year and replaced it with a Delco 63 amp unit. Last winter the bearing on the pulley end got quite noisy. Since I had a new bearing on hand, I just changed it rather than get it replaced. I bought the alternator from a parts distributer that handled Delco parts. It was a Delco rebuilt unit and on the inside the workmanship was not the best. After bearing replacement it has worked OK without any more issues.
I'll check with Martin and see if he wants to stick with the same size that's currently in Peanut (94 amp) or if he want's to find a larger one. I do need to verify the current wire size from the alternator to the battery just to make sure it's at least safe for 94 amps.

Quote:
Subsequently I replaced the starter with a Delco starter - what a disaster!
The one that I got was for later version 7.4 L engines. Sometime in the '80s GM changed from US dimensions to metric. The two bolts that hold the starter onto the engine changed to metric. Those two bolts are knurled and their dimensions and the starter bolt hole dimensions are critical to properly align the starter drive to the flywheel ring gear. In frustrationI went to a starter/alternator rebuild shop and he filled me in on the issues. The starter drive housing (nose piece) is either the older US dimension or the newer metric dimension. I got another starter from him and another drive housing. Now I have an extra starter.
I didn't realize there were physical size changes to the later starters. I knew about the change to metric but I assumed they kept the same physical size so they would be interchangeable.

Quote:
At the same time I got a higher output alternator from him. This alternator housing slightly longer than the 63 amp alternator and the spacer between the lower alternator mounting and the engine is slightly different. The higher output unit will fit if I get correct spacer.

If you already have a higher output alternator you probably have the proper spacer for higher output alternator housings.

I have never had trouble with the 63 amp alternator handling the motorhome for the first 80K miles.

Gregg
It sounds like the 94 amp unit currently installed should be more than enough to handle things. Let's see what Martin decides.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 06-09-2016, 05:53 AM   #270
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If the current wiring is suitable for a 94amp unit let's stay with that Brad.

If the wiring is original and only really suitable for 63amp then we need to rethink.

For Peanut I am trying to follow the KISS principal!
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Old 06-09-2016, 06:34 AM   #271
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I'll let you know what I find out about the wire size. Hopefully I can stick my head in there after work today.
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Old 06-09-2016, 07:14 AM   #272
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There is an electrical stud type terminal mounted on a bracket just behind the alternator and at the forward end of the intake manifold. The alternator output wire goes to this terminal. From that point the chassis 12 volt system is fed out to the rest of the coach including the battery. I didn't measure the wire gauge but it is larger than anything else and the wire to the battery is also of a larger gauge. I think that you will find that the wire gauge will be adequate since according to the service manual there was an option for a 92 amp alternator in 1977.
Wire gauge in vehicles like this is not usually cut and dry. There are factors like duty cycles, wire bundled in a harness or open in free air, etc. The main reason for the higher output alternators is that they can maintain the proper output voltage (approx 14.5 volts) under heavier loads to keep the battery fully charged while driving. Another factor in the case of Peanut, is 12 volt use in the coach vs 12 volt from the Univolt system.
I it were me, I would check the factory wiring (which is probably OK) and replace with another 92 amp alternator. When I get time, I'm going to upgrade my Argosy 20 to the 92 amp alternator that I got from the alternator shop.

Good Luck,
Gregg
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Old 06-09-2016, 08:00 AM   #273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWallace View Post
There is an electrical stud type terminal mounted on a bracket just behind the alternator and at the forward end of the intake manifold. The alternator output wire goes to this terminal. From that point the chassis 12 volt system is fed out to the rest of the coach including the battery.

I didn't measure the wire gauge but it is larger than anything else and the wire to the battery is also of a larger gauge. I think that you will find that the wire gauge will be adequate since according to the service manual there was an option for a 92 amp alternator in 1977.
Wire gauge in vehicles like this is not usually cut and dry. There are factors like duty cycles, wire bundled in a harness or open in free air, etc. The main reason for the higher output alternators is that they can maintain the proper output voltage (approx 14.5 volts) under heavier loads to keep the battery fully charged while driving. Another factor in the case of Peanut, is 12 volt use in the coach vs 12 volt from the Univolt system.
I it were me, I would check the factory wiring (which is probably OK) and replace with another 92 amp alternator. When I get time, I'm going to upgrade my Argosy 20 to the 92 amp alternator that I got from the alternator shop.

Good Luck,
Gregg
That pretty much matches what I was expecting to find. The alternator wire to the post will be easy to upgrade if needed. The wire from the post to the battery will need close inspection to make sure it's sized right and is in good shape. Since it has a 94 amp alternator if the wire is in good condition then there should be no reason to rework it.

Time to order an alternator!

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 06-12-2016, 10:10 AM   #274
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Peanut is now sporting a new 94 amp alternator
Click image for larger version

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I checked the wiring and it all seemed to be good so there should be no issues with replacing the old 94 amp with a new 94 amp unit.

I've also made some progress on the power steering pressure hose from the pump to the hydroboost and the steel pipe from the hydroboost to the steering gearbox. I don't have pictures just yet but might snap one or two later today. The steel line still needs to have one end double flared before I can install it. Hopefully at lunch tomorrow I can drop it off at the shop that I've had do all of my flaring work. There's some things I'd just as soon have a trained mechanic do

Brad
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:20 PM   #275
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Peanut now has a new power steering gearbox to hydroboost steel pipe installed
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Will try and get the two suction hoses and the hose from the ps pump to the hydroboost installed yet this week. Slowly plugging away....
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:35 PM   #276
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Its great progress Brad. I'm amazed you can balance working on both Peanut and your own MH.
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:05 AM   #277
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Its great progress Brad. I'm amazed you can balance working on both Peanut and your own MH.
I don't know that balance is the right word. It's more like I work on one for a while and then feel guilty for neglecting the other one so I work on the other one for a while and then the cycle starts over again. You might say I'm in an endless loop
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Old 06-19-2016, 07:37 PM   #278
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I learnt this weekend why so many folks recommend changing to a bolt in generator tray....

The story started with 3 hours yesterday to get three of the five bolts that hold the BFA generator in the parts donor - each one was a total fight.

Today Joseph Migliore (JM2) joined me in the fight, which included cutting the nuts off the remaining bolts with a hacksaw blade (after a metal blade on my oscillating saw did no more than 'tickle them'). But that was only the start of the 'fun'. I got the muffler off yesterday but the primary pipe from the manifold extended approx 2" through the generator tray, and the head room above the generator was only 1" - ie the generator could not be lifted enough for the exhaust to clear the tray, because there was no room to go 'up'.

By swiveling the right hand side out first (after removing the air filter) we managed to get approx 25% of the generator 'out' before we hit the next puzzle - physically the generator would not fit (height) through the opening. After no end of tipping and twisting it become apparent that the only way to remove the generator was to remove the aluminum trim from around the opening giving another 3/4" of clearance.

After starting around 11am the generator was finally out by around 6pm, a total of 10 hours, for what would take less than an hour if the tray bolted in!

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Old 06-19-2016, 08:07 PM   #279
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Wow, it doesn't sound like you're enjoying the early days of your retirement are you

The good news is Peanuts new generator floor will unbolt and drop straight down
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Old 06-20-2016, 05:39 AM   #280
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Martin,
I'm not sure what you are planning with that 4.0 BFA, but it is much like the 4.0 BF in my 77 20 footer. The carburetor and intake manifold assembly unbolt from the two cylinders with 4 bolts. Prior to removal the fuel line, the throttle rod, and a wire to the electric choke has to be disconnected. With the carb/manifold assembly removed,there is moe clearance on top to lift the genset for removal. Also if need be, the exhaust header can also be unbolted in a similar way. Many times these old "green monsters" can be cleaned up and become great AC generators.
Gregg
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