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Old 03-11-2013, 10:04 AM   #57
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1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond , Kentucky
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Originally Posted by mprokop87 View Post
Yes there is, the fridge access panel! The previous owner busted the latch when he removed his old fridge so its been exposed to the great outdoors for the past 2 years. The water would run in along the wall and then down the step. The floor under the fridge was rotted near the wall but was solid about 13inches in. I poured some water/bleach all over everything to get out some of the pee smell (smelled like an outhouse at a tractor pull) and that seemed to work well. I will post more pictures once I get it put back together.
Your Argosy must have the later style fridge access panel with louvers in it. The earlier Argosies had a solid hatch cover and for ventilation there was a floor opening with a screen to keep the larger critters out.

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I should be able too. I helped my dad do a repair on his Dometic in his 97 Innsbruck and it was easily accessible. I wont put it in permanently until its fixed or I am 100% sure I can take it apart in place.
Sounds like a plan

Brad
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:39 PM   #58
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1976 24' Argosy 24
Victor , New York
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So I got my fridge today and I am rather excited. Cosmetically it is in pretty good shape. There are a few dings but overall great shape its age. The handle that locks the door shut is busted because it was hit while being taken out. Luckily I found replacements on ebay!

Norcold Replacement Door Parts- Ebay

I got the stand for the fridge all made up out of 2x4s and put the fridge in its place for a quick dry fit. Well, it turns out that I can access everything that I need from the access panel on the outside of the motor home. I took out the power supply board and found the issue pretty quick, R4.

Click image for larger version

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As you can see from the picture, R4 is TOAST! The connector for the control lines (upper left) is also twisted and one of the feet is broken, probably from removal from the previous RV. The resistor created an open circuit on 120VAC side so there is no power getting anywhere. I posted a link to the manual and parts list in the fridge section of the site, link below. Unfortunately the color bands are burnt off of the resistor and the parts list does not list the resistor characteristics.

From what I could find by looking at boards on ebay the resistor is a 20k ohm +/-5%. I will see what we have lying around work and hopefully I can find something. From my calculations I should get something that can withstand a few watts to be on the safe side.

Cross your fingers that this will fix it!

Norcold 6000 series manual/PL
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:04 PM   #59
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Matt,

Good job of troubleshooting the board! Any idea what could have caused the resistor to cook like that?

If that board turns out to be non-fixable then check out this
Dinosaur 618661 replacement board. Only $76.

I've heard good things about them and even bought one of their boards for my Suburban furnace.

Brad
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:37 PM   #60
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That's a bit dangerous bleach and ammonia (in the urine).
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Care to expand on that statement?
It is fairly common knowledge that chlorine (which is in bleach) and ammonia (which is in urine), when combined can create poisonous gas. Someone on this forum reported having one of these chemical reactions when using bleach to cleanup mouse urine in their trailer.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:42 PM   #61
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Wow! Never heard that one before. I've been lucky in that I haven't found any nests like that in my Argosy.

Thanks for the info.

Brad
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Old 03-13-2013, 05:28 AM   #62
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I've never heard of that either. Well that might explain my hives that I've had since the weekend. Time to air the Argosy out!
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:16 PM   #63
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I had to do a little more work on the fridge today. Yesterday I replaced the resistor and in the process I saw that a BJT was cracked to pieces, replaced that too. In the evening I put everything back together but could not get any lights or signs of life in the fridge. After some investigation I found that when the BJT overheated that it created so much heat it melted the RJ45 connector in the upper left along with the cable that plugs in. I replaced the connector earlier in the day but I never checked the cable. Put a new end on that too. Also the contacts inside the Gas/Auto/Off switch were bent out of position so I had to straighten those up too. With those few issues fixed I put everything back together and lights lit up!

Unfortunately it was too cold out for the thermostat to turn the fridge on, there is only one that is located in the fridge portion nothing in the freezer. I connected the base of the BJT that turns on the heater/burner to 12VDC and the fired the fridge up. After a few minutes of this the AC heater had warmed up considerable. After switching to gas/LP i heard the relays fire for the igniter and gas valve, all is well there too!

Next step is to build a frame to put the fridge into so its secured. Last thing I would want is for the fridge to come out and spill my beer!
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:33 PM   #64
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Good job of getting it working!

Definitely get that thing secured, I'd hate to see your beer get spilled

Brad
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:02 AM   #65
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1976 28' Argosy 28
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cheap fix for a profiet

look for an old square type motor home than you can junk for more than you payed for it , there is a lot of them out there . take out all the items you need , Junk the rest , If it has a 454 Chev engine , they are worth about 1000.00 , plus the trans and maybe you can get some tires and rims you need ,you may be able to find some one that would do all the work for the junk claim on the body, just make sure you supervise the removal of the items you want. good luck , JD
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:15 AM   #66
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So a quick update... I went through the brake system and bled the brakes. All the bleeders cracked open, thanks to pb blaster! The only issue I found was that on the drivers front wheel I have a leaky caliper hose. I wish I did that wheel first so I would have found the issue early in the day but I did it last. Bleeding the brakes took about four hours doing the work myself because each wheel had to come off. Also there is not much room near the rear bleeders, enough for two fast fingers and a small tubing wrench!

Today I took out all the spark plugs and cleaned them. Even though I just put them in a few months ago they were dirty. Once they were all back in the engine fired right up and ran very smooth. Currently it is not registered but I decided to put a few more gallons of gas into it and took it for a spin. Boy did I have a huge smile on my face the whole time. She drove straight, stopped smooth and got right up to 50.

Happy Easter everyone!
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:33 PM   #67
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So a quick update... I went through the brake system and bled the brakes. All the bleeders cracked open, thanks to pb blaster! The only issue I found was that on the drivers front wheel I have a leaky caliper hose. I wish I did that wheel first so I would have found the issue early in the day but I did it last. Bleeding the brakes took about four hours doing the work myself because each wheel had to come off. Also there is not much room near the rear bleeders, enough for two fast fingers and a small tubing wrench!
I told you those rear bleeders were a bear to get to

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Today I took out all the spark plugs and cleaned them. Even though I just put them in a few months ago they were dirty. Once they were all back in the engine fired right up and ran very smooth.
Were they black/sooty looking or were they dirty from engine oil/blowby?

Quote:
Currently it is not registered but I decided to put a few more gallons of gas into it and took it for a spin. Boy did I have a huge smile on my face the whole time. She drove straight, stopped smooth and got right up to 50.

Happy Easter everyone!
Glad to hear it's running and driving good now!

Brad
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:45 PM   #68
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Were they black/sooty looking or were they dirty from engine oil/blowby

Brad
Yes they were. My oil was rather thin and smelled of gas so I am assuming that it was burning that. I plan to change the oil this week so hopefully it well cut down on oil burn. I just want it to last a year or two until I can rebuild it, we don't plan to travel too far from home.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:14 PM   #69
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Yes they were. My oil was rather thin and smelled of gas so I am assuming that it was burning that. I plan to change the oil this week so hopefully it well cut down on oil burn. I just want it to last a year or two until I can rebuild it, we don't plan to travel too far from home.
Change your oil to 10W30 and your engine will thank you for it! If it doesn't smoke and accelerates quickly then there should be no need to rebuild it. Trust me, pulling, rebuilding and then reinstalling one of these motors is NO fun!

Brad
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:19 PM   #70
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I believe you, trust me! Thanks for the tip!
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