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Old 03-15-2015, 04:18 PM   #99
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I think the situation looks more complex than it actually is, because the generator only lives there for transport, the intention is to lift it out for use (there is no transfer switch, it just plugs in the shoreline when running.

The AC is permanently installed and runs either with the hatch open or closed (the hatch is louvered), but is normally plugged into the shore/generator 110v/20 amp circuit.



If we want we can physically change so that it plugs into the 110v/15amp circuit and run off the inverter/solar, but as a 'safety' you can only access the plug from the outside, after the generator is removed, and if running we can't use the only other high power appliance....our toaster oven!
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Old 03-20-2015, 03:14 PM   #100
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We have had a small 'gotcha' this week, which is hopefully solved, at least I am confident enough to share.

The media system is centered around a small Lenovo PC. The PC is mounting in the top of the closet, with optical audio output (via a optical/analog converter) to the dash stereo (or rather the amplifier for the stereo) and HDMI to the flat screen mounted on the side of the closet looking towards the back.

It was mounted in such a way that the TV could rotate through 180 degrees to face forward (diagram below).



Which was fine for the person sitting in the drivers seat but the passenger could only see half the screen. As the front seats double up as the main seating this wasn't exactly 'useful'.

The solution was to get two 'heavy duty' long reach Cheetah mounts, remove the TV plate from one, the wall plate from the other and join the two halves to make a mount that can extend to 40", and actually reach clear across the main 'corridor'.



We will have to strengthen the closet wall where it bolts through, but it also means we can better centralize the bracket, on the wall, and still see the whole screen from both front seats.



It also means the TV can be positioned centrally at the end of the pull-out table, if we are set up with the beds as a dinette.
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Old 03-20-2015, 04:42 PM   #101
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Pretty slick solution Martin.
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Old 03-23-2015, 05:31 PM   #102
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Getting to crunch time.....the guys at the shop are saying approx 4 weeks work to 'get her back on the road' (that will allow us to start shake down trials before it goes back in for repainting etc)

But there are still 4 pages of 'tasks' left to do, and and that is with one line for things like 'install new dash AC', 'final installation of seats', 'refit new wind-screens' etc etc and as the current 'burn rate' is $6K per week (not incl parts), and with the shop techs having clocked over 1000 hours on the rebuild so far, it better only be 4 weeks!
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:12 PM   #103
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1976 28' Argosy 28
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28 1976 Argosy

Martin,
I saw your MH at Airstream NE on Monday. WOW! she is coming out beautiful. You inspired my friend and I to buy a 28' 1976 Argosy MH. We live on cape cod and would love to pick your brain a little? Please let me know if that would be ok?
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Old 04-03-2015, 06:03 AM   #104
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More than happy to chat, but there are many many more knowledge folks on this forum...all of which will happily chip in, so don't me afraid to ask.
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Old 04-04-2015, 06:44 AM   #105
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Getting to crunch time..... before it goes back in for repainting etc)
Martin,

One of my lessons learned on painting is to check the sealant in all of the window gutters, door gutter, and front window BEFORE painting. You want it all sealed up tight with fresh sealant before painting. I discovered a few leaks after painting that I wish were resolved prior to paint. I also replaced the original Argosy fiberglass fridge vent cover and tank vent with aluminum ones prior to paint. I also had my AC and vent cover painted to match the unit.

Also, if you are going to use the Argosy fiberglass panels (i.e. the rear tail light bar), you may want to somehow reinforce them while they are off. My taillight bar has cracked since the paint job.

Not sure what paint colors you are going with but the original Airstream paint codes from the 1970's had more yellow in it than we would have liked. I recommend bypassing the original paint code and going with the colors you are after. Even if you want that original look, a nice tan or beige might look better than the original beige with the yellow tint.
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Old 04-04-2015, 08:14 AM   #106
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All great points Fred, and some of the things that are still concerning me.

Just about all the 'clutter' has gone from the roof (no more roof-top AC or fridge/waste tank vents), and only the new FF remain, but that does mean some patching. All the window seals are new as well but that means a lot of new potential for leaks.

The guys had suggested rolling it straight into the paint booth (Airstream of NE are part of Baystate Ford, and located in the Ford body shop) but I would prefer to take it out a few times, get it wet, make sure everything is working properly and we don't want to make any changes before painting.

The guys have already reinforced the original dash, and plan to do the original cab cap before painting but I will get them to consider the taillight bar as well.

Paint is an interesting topic....and we seem to change our minds every other day. My current preference is a silver metallic base with a hint of green, but as I say it changes; I am sure it will be a silver metallic base + tint of some sort. The new pole and rope awning arrived from Marti yesterday (looks great), and we had a pair of matching windbreaks made by Beach Wind Breaks (beachwindbreak.com) all in Sunbrella Lankford Willow, so we have committed at least to some sort of green/beige tint.

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Old 04-04-2015, 09:22 AM   #107
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Maybe something like Willow Green metallic that was used on 1965/66 Chevelles?

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Old 04-04-2015, 09:30 AM   #108
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Sweeeeeet
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Old 04-04-2015, 09:31 AM   #109
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Now if you could get similar rims for the Argosy!
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:28 PM   #110
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1976 Argosy 28'

Thank you Martin,
Well day 1 I ran into a problem that I was hoping someone could help me out? On my way home fro picking up the Argosy from the seller I hit a pot hole in the road or it was when I honked my horn, ( this happend seconds apart) I lost all my interior lights, dome lights and the interior clock. I checked the fuses under the driver side dash. They looked ok but I didn't actually pull each one. Does anyone have a suggestion where I should look next?
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:42 PM   #111
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More than happy to chat, but there are many many more knowledge folks on this forum...all of which will happily chip in, so don't me afraid to ask.

Great, Thank you again!

I was wondering what you used for the panels inside?
Do you have the cabinet door under your sink still?
Is it possible to buy your bathroom set up (toilet,sink and Shower) If so where can I order it?

Thank you for the help
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Old 04-05-2015, 07:18 AM   #112
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Great, Thank you again!

I was wondering what you used for the panels inside?
Do you have the cabinet door under your sink still?
Is it possible to buy your bathroom set up (toilet,sink and Shower) If so where can I order it?

Thank you for the help
Hi Fishizzle, I need to start with a word of caution.

Literally all the internal cabinetry was hand made from scratch. This been very labor intensive and much more expensive, and taken a lot longer than even using standard Airstream cabinetry. For example, on your 28ft if you could simply use all the cabinets from a 25ft modern trailer it is much more cost effective. Obviously we chose to go the custom route (and even now looking back wouldn't change that), because we have a very specific use in mind.

Our preference was to make it feel big inside even though it isn't; the interior skins are all aluminum (the shop ordered panels from the current Airstream range and made them fit), but we struggled to find a interior wood finish that we like (we wanted maple or light beech). In the end the shop had a company make a short run (10 8'x4' panels) of ply specifically with the timber surface we wanted on one side and white laminate on the other. Just about all of that got used so there is approx 300sqft of ply used in the interior.

Not sure I under you second question, could you please expand a little?

The wet room setup is a collection of parts, all of which are available, but are a pain to order as the cassette toilet, and drop down sink are only available in Europe. They can be imported directly (we simply purchased in Europe, and had them shipped) but can be bought via the guys at EuroCampers.com who are US agents for REIMO campervans who are one of the largest European RV parts suppliers. Again a word of caution, think carefully before going with a cassette toilet, we plan to use our Argosy in the US for a few years then take it back to UK to tour Europe; there camp grounds are not 'black tank friendly' and most are setup for cassette toilet disposal. The shower pan with the raised step is a standard part and available from Pelland, Panther, PPL and others (we got ours from Pelland). The overal concept is the same as used by 'Jim the Truck' in his conversion (JIM THE TRUCK: The Water Closet).

Lots of other folks have re-modeled there motorhomes so hopefully they will jump in a comment.

Hope this helps, Martin
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