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Old 07-26-2015, 08:40 PM   #253
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Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
for the first time DW has shown some interest in colors for the outside, and wants to keep the Argosy signature cream plus a color.....maybe the (a slightly darker) sage green has just become the color of the accent stripe and lower body!
Quick piece of advice. Have the DW pick the creme color that she wants and don't use the original factory color codes (unless you really want to). We used the original paint codes and while we love our Argosy, it has more yellow tint in the beige than we'd like! The yellow tint really comes out on overcast days. When my DW first saw ours after the paint, she said our Argosy was now "smoker tooth yellow". I guess that was desirable in 1977. We do feel better about it now but we'd pick a different beige if we had to do it all over again.
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Old 08-05-2015, 08:46 PM   #254
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Well I decided to take a '30min a day after work' approach to the ACSF (actually it is that plus a 'detail stuff Airstream NE didn't finish' list).

So far

a) adjusted the drawers so they don't fly open going around any bend (actually it is a little unfair to blame the shop as they didn't fly open until we put stuff in them!) - I'm not convinced this will work so have already bought some thumbscrews and will insert though from the double sink unit.

b) Fix the first broken mini-blind (broken when we picked Bella up from Airstream)

c) Fix the second broken mini-blind the broke on the first camping trip

d) Move the drivers side wiper arm to the correct alignment

e) Adjust the engine access panel closing, although this appears to be a long running issue as someone has installed an aftermarket truck catch on the upper side, and in the past it also had a second catch on the lower side. I can see me having to switch the engine access panel from the donor

f) Body work.....I know I said I was going to leave it until the end of the summer but a couple of old previous repairs have opened up in use. Just trying not to get too carried away.

Couple of bigger issues have arisen. First was when I went to refill the propane (local Uhaul). The guy says, this looks like a new install....I say yes using certified parts by a certified shop. He says "can I see the system certification". I say "what system certification". He then quotes some legaleeze, and suggests I contact the shop. I contact the shop and the they say "oh we have never put in a whole system, just replaced parts" and they now have to find out if they are even certified to do a full install....until then I have no hot water (or gas option on the fridge, or furnace).

Second is a real pain. Fairly late in the build we hit the issue of mounting the seats and went with the quick fix of adding a a couple of pieces of 5in channel (had to be 5in to give a long enough 'leg' to accommodate the difference in hole pattern between the seat and the mount), but 5in makes the seat too high. So I measure up the holes and got my local fab shop to make some custom brackets. Yesterday evenings '30min job' was to unbolt the passenger seat and fit the new bracket. Good plan I thought; until I removed the four bolts attaching the 5in channel to the base, at which point the seat rails sprung another 1 1/4" wider (ie 1 1/4" wider than I had just had the new brackets made). Worse they can't just be redrilled, as the new width means, the difference between the seat and mount holes cannot fit on the current leg length and they need to be remade. The fab shop is not happy throwing away perfectly good work and pretty much insisted they had a seat and a mount, in their shop, rather than work from drawings....I can't blame them. So before work this morning I am around at Airstream NE to pick up a spare mount, to go with the seat that was still out.

And there was me thinking 'its done'.....in the words of another MH thread "its never done".
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:37 AM   #255
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e) Adjust the engine access panel closing, although this appears to be a long running issue as someone has installed an aftermarket truck catch on the upper side, and in the past it also had a second catch on the lower side. I can see me having to switch the engine access panel from the donor
I never liked the engine compartment covers that were used in the Argosy motorhomes. They just seem so big and bulky. I have the fiberglass cover from the 345 that I am going to install in it's place.

Quote:
Couple of bigger issues have arisen. First was when I went to refill the propane (local Uhaul). The guy says, this looks like a new install....I say yes using certified parts by a certified shop. He says "can I see the system certification". I say "what system certification". He then quotes some legaleeze, and suggests I contact the shop. I contact the shop and the they say "oh we have never put in a whole system, just replaced parts" and they now have to find out if they are even certified to do a full install....until then I have no hot water (or gas option on the fridge, or furnace).
Ouch! Hopefully your worst case scenario would be the need to be certified by a licensed installation shop.

Quote:
And there was me thinking 'its done'.....in the words of another MH thread "its never done".
Yeah but think about all the fun you're having....
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Old 08-07-2015, 08:17 AM   #256
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Don't suppose you have any photos of how the later access panel is mounted Brad?

The issue with mine appears to be that the hinge/pivot rod (or whatever it is called) needs bending back into shape, or there are some tension springs missing somewhere. So it has a big gap (about an inch) at the top edge and clunks as I drive along.
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Old 08-07-2015, 12:43 PM   #257
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Don't suppose you have any photos of how the later access panel is mounted Brad?

The issue with mine appears to be that the hinge/pivot rod (or whatever it is called) needs bending back into shape, or there are some tension springs missing somewhere. So it has a big gap (about an inch) at the top edge and clunks as I drive along.
The later Classic coaches (84 and later?) had fiberglass covers that you could lift off and were held in place by 4 stretchable T handles. Later today I can probably take a few pictures of the access on and off of the 310.

Like I mentioned previously I like that style a LOT more than the style in your Argosy. One of the benefits is you get a lot better access to the top front of the engine.
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Old 08-07-2015, 03:28 PM   #258
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Martin, here are some pictures taken in an 85 310. The low profile makes it a lot easier to work on the engine. When I install the spare one that I have in my Argosy I will have to do a little rework of the engine compartment opening but nothing to drastic.

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Brad
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:26 PM   #259
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Sorry Brad...I have had you chasing the wrong thing. By engine access panel I actually meant "forward service door" (I should have looked up the correct name in the manual - sorry). In other words this



You can see it shuts tight, but the clues are the extra latches (or rather an extra latch and one hole where a latch was) which actually do nothing.

When driving the "forward service door" comes forward and leaves about a 1/2" gap, which then rattles and clunks over every bump



The issue appears to be there is no tension on the rod/hinge pivot (definately don't know what to call that), which locates in holes in each side but is a continuous rod and runs under the battery.



There appears to be a kink in this rod directly in the center and I suspect there used to be some sort of clip into which that should go when the "forward service door" is shut.



Hopefully the donor will give some clues!!!! If not I will add a couple of rubber T hood catches to solve it.....after swapping the panel to the one from the donor so I don't have the extra latches/holes.
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:36 PM   #260
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Oops, sorry for the confusion!

When I got my Argosy the whole front end had been removed for engine removal. When the time comes for me to re-install the front end I'm probably going to need a lot of pictures to help figure out how it goes back together!

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I'll run down to the shop in a few minutes and take some pictures of the 310. There is a definite difference in how the covers attach and their hinge arrangement.

Brad
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Old 08-07-2015, 07:30 PM   #261
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Martin, here's what the later Classic motorhomes had for the access cover attachment. Pretty simple.

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I took a few pictures of my Argosy access cover and it has two sliding latches. It also has one lock in the lower center. What I'm unsure of is how a person can reach inside to slide the locking levers. Can they be accessed from below?

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Here's a couple of pictures of Fred's 77 20' Argosy engine access cover. Surprisingly it's a hybrid of the early and late versions. It has the later hinge arrangement but the earlier style latch setup.

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Personally I don't think it would be to difficult to fabricate two hinges like those found on the later coaches. I'll probably give that a try before resorting to using the original setup.

Hope this helps!

Brad
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Old 08-07-2015, 08:24 PM   #262
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I took a few pictures of my Argosy access cover and it has two sliding latches. It also has one lock in the lower center. What I'm unsure of is how a person can reach inside to slide the locking levers. Can they be accessed from below?
Yes Brad the 'flippers' are easy to get to through the early type grill, and they push up the sprung latches to let the lower edge slip forward. Your lock in the center is where my hole is (like one of the PO had moved the lock from lower edge to upper edge to try and take out the slack).

Hope the brackets/panel are 'swapable' from our donor.
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Old 08-08-2015, 05:50 AM   #263
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Yes Brad the 'flippers' are easy to get to through the early type grill, and they push up the sprung latches to let the lower edge slip forward. Your lock in the center is where my hole is (like one of the PO had moved the lock from lower edge to upper edge to try and take out the slack).

Hope the brackets/panel are 'swapable' from our donor.
The brackets on the cover should be swapable but the arms on the coach are cast aluminum and an integral part of the frame opening. You will need to fabricate arms of some sort and bolt them to the frame opening. Probably not the easiest thing to do but should be doable.

If I get some time between mowing sessions today I'll take my Argosy cover off the shelf and do some comparisons.
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Old 08-08-2015, 06:33 AM   #264
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Some photos of the flappers from this morning to show how they work.





I am convinced the key to the original access panel closing tight is the kink in the pivot/hinge bar. When the panel is open, the kink is revolved and rests against the back bar.



When the panel is closed the rod revolves forward and when fully closed is at its furthest forward position. If there was a spring holding it forward (maybe to the edge of the battery tray), it would always be held firmly.



It is accessible from the grill when closed so I am going to try and add a wedge of rubber behind it temporarily
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Old 08-08-2015, 08:09 AM   #265
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Martin,

I just finished comparing my Argosy cover to yours and they are identical in everything I can see with the exception of one thing. Your cover has a couple extra holes where the round bar connects.

Here's my cover.

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Here's your cover.

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Your hinge point is the lower hole which makes me wonder if that's not the reason the top of your cover is able to pull out like it does. You might try relocating the bar to the top hole and see if that helps.

I'm betting some PO added the extra holes to allow for more opening clearance. Just a thought....

Brad
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Old 08-08-2015, 10:53 AM   #266
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Good thought Brad

I gave the other holes a try but the current bend angle of the rod meant that the panel wouldn't shut at all in those positions. To get them to fit I would have to try bending the road some and to be honest the situation is actually getting a little worse with my fiddling around.

Going to look at the donor later today although I suspect it will have the newer style hinges and would be more of a medium term solution. Short term could be simply to add the rubber T-straps.
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