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Old 06-23-2015, 07:39 PM   #197
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I'd rebuild it for you for free, but I'm on the "other" side of the country!
Would almost be worth flying over, and hand delivering, just to get to see your rig and the ranch in person!

I would love to have a place like that in reachable distance, and that's coming from someone that lives 400 yards from the ocean and only 40 mins from Cape Cod.
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Old 06-25-2015, 11:12 AM   #198
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I am digging into the fuel filter situation a little, as I can't see how the 'crud' got into the carb (maybe the timing with the water ingress is just a coincidence). The PO had fitted a marine fuel filter/water separator (Racor S3227) which appears to have a 10 micron filter element. Does anyone have any experience of these?
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Old 06-25-2015, 11:29 AM   #199
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Sure looks to me the gunk in the carburetor is just years worth of build up.

With the crap that's in modern fuels today, condensation build up and who knows what else I'm not surprised by your pictures.

I'd never thought about it before but having a moisture filter on a gas engine doesn't seem like such a bad idea. Hopefully others will chime in about that.

I'm curious as to what the tank builder used as a level sensor on the new tank. Did they use your old one and if so is it still functional?

Brad
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Old 06-25-2015, 11:47 AM   #200
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Yes Brad, they just used the sender straight off the old tank, but new fittings, you can just about make it out in this photo.



The sender is still working, although that is only just verified - they installed the circuit board from your cluster and the gauges are working (well at least the ones the can test without the engine running).
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Old 06-25-2015, 12:12 PM   #201
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Yes Brad, they just used the sender straight off the old tank, but new fittings, you can just about make it out in this photo.

Wow! That's a big tank, I like it! I just might look into doing something like that.

Did you come up with any solution yet to your venting problem?

Quote:
The sender is still working, although that is only just verified - they installed the circuit board from your cluster and the gauges are working (well at least the ones the can test without the engine running).
Glad to hear results have been good so far on the circuit board. One less thing for you to worry about.

Brad
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Old 06-25-2015, 12:39 PM   #202
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Did you come up with any solution yet to your venting problem?
Sort of.....but I'm not sure not having to fill the tank because the darn thing isn't running counts as a solution!

You can see the frustration in the situation....there is literally 15" of 1 3/4" pipe in the filler tube so I have no idea why it should be backing up during filling.
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:02 PM   #203
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Sort of.....but I'm not sure not having to fill the tank because the darn thing isn't running counts as a solution!
Think of the gas money you're saving right now

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You can see the frustration in the situation....there is literally 15" of 1 3/4" pipe in the filler tube so I have no idea why it should be backing up during filling.
When the fab shop installed the baffles do you know if they left openings at the top of each baffle? If not I can see where air would get trapped at the top of each compartment and it would take time for the air to work it's way over to the compartment that is vented.

Just thinking.....
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:11 PM   #204
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I did check with the fabricator, and he is sure he didn't seal off sections/create any gas traps, but short of cutting it open I have no idea how to check.
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:17 PM   #205
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I did check with the fabricator, and he is sure he didn't seal off sections/create any gas traps, but short of cutting it open I have no idea how to check.
Try a Bore Scope.
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:20 AM   #206
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I will give it a go Brad.....gives me an excuse to buy a cheap inspection camera - as if I need an excuse to buy a new 'toy'!

I think in part this is coming from the filler tube 'collapsing'. Even without the camera I can see the circular profile of the pipe is flattening out as it goes around the bend (very similar to what is shown in one of kramerbuilt's photos on his rebuild thread, apologies for borrowing your photo kramerbuilt)



With the layout of our 20ft, the filler hose is at the back of the wardrobe between the wetroom and the curbside twin bed and it isn't immediately clear if the installation of the cabinetry isn't pinching it even more.



I guess ideally this should be a bent (aluminium or steel) pipe with the flex only used to join to the filler neck and the neck, because at that OD the hose will collapse just in making the turn from the filler neck to the tank
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:28 AM   #207
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Maybe a simple 45 degree conduit elbow like this could be trimmed to work?

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Old 06-26-2015, 06:49 AM   #208
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Maybe a simple 45 degree conduit elbow like this could be trimmed to work?

That was what I was going to suggest.

As a test one thing you could try is using a hose clamp around the section that is colapsing to see if you can squeeze it back to a round shape. I've had limited success with this but it would be a cheap test. If the band of the clamp doesn't provide enough surface area you could wrap a strip of aluminum around it for more surface area.
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Old 06-26-2015, 08:15 AM   #209
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You might be able to find a pre-formed, curved hose suited for fuel use. Or, you may be able to find a ribbed style hose that is more adapted to making the curve. In addition, I've seen coil springs inside of radiator hoses. Perhaps you can do the same thing and put a coil spring inside the hose to minimize collapsing.

Find a good industrial supply hose shop, not just an auto parts store, if necessary.

Good Luck!
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Old 06-28-2015, 07:56 PM   #210
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What about a piece of PVC conduit? You can heat it and bend it to any shape you want. Try a piece just big enough to go around the outside of the hose you have. Slide the hose inside the conduit and re-install it at both ends just like it is now.

I would be willing to bet that kink is your problem. What if you slip a piece of tubing down the filler neck at the same time you insert the gas nozzle to form a vent tube?Most of the cars I have worked on have a vent tube (about 1/2") that runs from the top of the tank up to just about the top of the filler neck right under the cap.
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