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Old 11-24-2015, 02:47 AM   #1
MrJ
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1976 28' Argosy 28
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HELP: Windshield leaks

I previously calked the top of the windshield and that helped stop the leak. I used Trempro 635 but the sun cracked it and the seal failed. I can apply Trempro again and paint but I would prefer to know the correct way to correct this leak. I also opened up the back side and the leak is coming where the windshield meets the metal. The rivets and calk and not leaking. Water runs down the middle metal pole and on to the dash. Then down to the floor.
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Old 11-24-2015, 05:21 AM   #2
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Several of us have the same issue. You can read about some of the issues in this thread.

However, the Move-It stuff that was recommended does not work for long. It deteriorates rapidly. I discussed this with Peter and he suggested trying black vulkem 116. Apparently it is much easier to apply than the sikaflex and a little goes a long way. He says it is also more gritty so be conservative when using it.

I have some of the black vulkem 116 but have not yet applied it. Since my Argosy is now parked inside and probably won't see sunshine again for a year or more I can't give you any first hand feedback on how long it will last.

Sorry I can't help any more than that.

Brad
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Old 11-24-2015, 09:33 AM   #3
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MrJ, I thought you were talking about my 280 there for a moment! I'm a bit worried with all the rain that is predicted this year.


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Old 11-24-2015, 09:39 AM   #4
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Can you get a glass repair company like "Safelite" to replace the seal on the glass?
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Old 11-24-2015, 01:02 PM   #5
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Even if you replace the entire windshield rubber seal I'm not convinced that leaks won't occur unless some sort of sealant was used during the install process.
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Old 11-25-2015, 12:33 AM   #6
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I cracked windshield a few years back and replaced the gasket because the old one was hard as a rock and unusable. After installing the new gasket and locking bead everything looked great. The installer then grabbed a tube of black urethane windshield adhesive and proceed to fill between the gasket and the aluminum body and also between the gasket and the glass. Naturally I ask why as I thought the locking bead was supposed to hold and seal the glass. He explained that almost all the glued in windshields today are a structural part of the car and considered a "safety" component and his insurance demands that he glue all windshields whether they need it or not to avoid liability issues. Not only am I safe but my windshield doesn't leak.
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Old 11-25-2015, 02:19 AM   #7
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Thanks for the info. I'll have to get the seal replaced. I think I read on here that the windshield has a tendency to break when the seal is replaced? I could calk and paint it. (cheap fix) I would use a lot of calk and work it into the curve. Obviously Tremrpo 635 doesn't like UV rays. Doesn't that Airstream dealer in AZ sell the windshield seals? Any suggestion on who could fix this? Preferably in the Dallas N. TX area. thanks guys.
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Old 11-25-2015, 03:24 AM   #8
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I am preparing to reseal the inner and outer edges of my windshield gasket. Whatever was used before is deteriorating and falling off.
I dont have any obvious leaks but I am trying to stop the white haze in the glass from getting worse.
I picked up some Silkaflex 221 to test out.
Has anyone tried it and did it work OK?
One thing that concerns me is that it does not mention glass compatibility in its specs.
http://usa.sika.com/dms/getdocument....flex221-us.pdf
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Old 11-25-2015, 04:19 PM   #9
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MrJ
I agree with you. It just makes sense that a 30 year old piece of rubber exposed to the sun is well past its useful life expectancy.
I have been trying to get mine repaired this past week. I think it is the last leak
I need to address. I called Inland RV and they told me they don't know where I can find a new gasket. I called a local glass guy that works on hotrods and muscle cars but, he shied away from the challenge. At this point I would consider trying to do it myself if I had the correct materials and some sound guidance.
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Old 11-25-2015, 04:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregsch View Post
MrJ
I agree with you. It just makes sense that a 30 year old piece of rubber exposed to the sun is well past its useful life expectancy.
I have been trying to get mine repaired this past week. I think it is the last leak
I need to address. I called Inland RV and they told me they don't know where I can find a new gasket. I called a local glass guy that works on hotrods and muscle cars but, he shied away from the challenge. At this point I would consider trying to do it myself if I had the correct materials and some sound guidance.
My local Airstream dealer ordered a replacement gasket from Airstream within the last 12months (along with new windscreens - delivered directly from Coach Glass).

Guys like Airstream Supply advertise that the gaskets are available but are special order.

Windshield Gasket
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:55 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneG View Post
I am preparing to reseal the inner and outer edges of my windshield gasket. Whatever was used before is deteriorating and falling off.
I dont have any obvious leaks but I am trying to stop the white haze in the glass from getting worse.
I picked up some Silkaflex 221 to test out.
Has anyone tried it and did it work OK?
One thing that concerns me is that it does not mention glass compatibility in its specs.
http://usa.sika.com/dms/getdocument....flex221-us.pdf
I found this on Amazon
3M 08693 Auto Glass Urethane Window Adhesive.
There are dozens of reviews that make it sound like others have sealed old leaky gaskets with good results.
I am still going to pursue replacing the gasket but, if that doesn't work out I will try this stuff.
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Old 11-28-2015, 04:02 AM   #12
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Thanks, that stuff looks interesting, I found a data sheet for it here:
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/4...ive-medium.pdf
The sheet claims that you also need a primer 3MôSingle Step Primer (P/N 08681 or 08682)
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/4...8681-08682.pdf
It looks like the primer is intended for full replacement and not leak sealing, but it still maybe a good idea to use it to get a proper seal on the glass and metal.
Yesterday it was in the 60's here so I started prepping the metal above the windshield. I pulled off my marker lights and used 800 grit sanding discs & truck box polish from above the markers down to the edge of the gasket. Since there is no sealant on the wire or screw holes for the markers, I will put some caulk there before I put them back up. (I also bought LED markers since the old ones disintegrated when I pulled them off)
I will need a warm day for the 3M product it does not cure well below 50 F.
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Old 11-28-2015, 06:18 AM   #13
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The Sika product I used in 2002 lasted over 10 years. When I went back to the glass store to get more a couple of years ago for Brad and the 345 I had at that time, they told me it was discontinued and was replaced with Sika Flex Move-it. Well, Brad and I found out that it does not last.
So I did some extensive tests with black vulkem 116. As Brad mentioned its a lot more gritty than other polys, but I found that it sticks to all three surfaces (glass,rubber and alu) and can handle UV and expansion.
Just remember, a little goes a long way, so use tape to apply it.
Even specialty window glazing polyurethane may require "roughing up" the glass with small abrasive tool filled with glass shards (see pic below), the vulkem 116 sticks to glass if its cleaned properly with Lacquer thinner. I also recommend using compressed air to clean the cracks and a chlorox/water solution to kill any mold deep inside.
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Old 11-28-2015, 01:21 PM   #14
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Peter, what is that tool for?
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