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bkahler · 12-05-2015, 05:14 PM

Sure beats staying in motels on trips like that

I hope you have a nice trip there and back for Christmas.

martin300662 · 12-05-2015, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkahler

Sure beats staying in motels on trips like that

I hope you have a nice trip there and back for Christmas.

Got about about 20,000 air miles to do before heading to the UK....Japan this week, Portugal the next, then back to UK,

Gregsch · 12-06-2015, 06:04 PM

I just tried the Lisle 4700. It worked okay. With soapy water it was difficult. Dry, I don't think you could force it through. My gasket is pretty stiff. I wonder if it would be easier to go ahead and get a new gasket. If I have sealant oozing out the edges and soapy water on the bead I think I will have a mess on my hands.

PeterH-350LE · 12-06-2015, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregsch

I just tried the Lisle 4700. It worked okay. With soapy water it was difficult. Dry, I don't think you could force it through. My gasket is pretty stiff. I wonder if it would be easier to go ahead and get a new gasket. If I have sealant oozing out the edges and soapy water on the bead I think I will have a mess on my hands.

Greg, I was wondering the same thing: Does the sealant applied under the gasket make it even more difficult to get the spline back in. And since you HAVE TO get the spline in before the sealant dries, it could get real messy.
I would wait until I really have to get a new gasket or have to replace a windshield.
If you find a glass company that will take the risk and pay for a new windshield if something goes wrong, it should only cost 500-600 for the gasket and labor.
Sticking with Black Vulkem may just be the best alternative.

bkahler · 12-08-2015, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martin300662

Got about about 20,000 air miles to do before heading to the UK....Japan this week, Portugal the next, then back to UK,

Ugg...I used to fly all over US and parts of the world for years and have finally reached a point that if I ever see the inside of an airplane again I'll probably go stark raving mad (or is that madder?!!).

Not sure how you do it Martin in this day of terrorist threats, passenger scrutiny and the airlines treating people so poorly.

Brad

Gregsch · 12-19-2015, 08:37 AM

Okay, Got the windshield all sealed up this week.
Bought some new tools to get the job done. About $75 for everything I needed.
Step one remove the spline along the top of the windshield. Simply stick a small screwdriver under the end of it and pry it up. Once it starts to come out it simply comes out like un zipping a zipper.
Now you will find you can easily pull the rubber away from the body to get behind it. I found remnants of old clear silicone and lots of dirt and grime behind mine. I washed it with soap and water. I had to use sand paper to get the silicone out. ( careful to protect anything you don't want scratch with tape). Finally I cleaned it to a pristine condition with a toothbrush and lacquer thinner.
Next I primer the aluminum with 3M primer. Man it stinks! Get plenty of fresh air, I will use a respirator next time. I trimmed a small disposable acid brush with the bristle trimmed down to about 3/8".
The technique that I found to work the best was sliding the plastic windshield tool just ahead of the caulking gun to push the gasket out of the way so you can lay a bead of caulk just under the rubber. When you put it back together you want a small amount of the Urethane to ooze out from under the rubber , too much and you just make a mess.
Now coat the spline and the groove with soapy water and use the Lisle #4700 spline tool to zip the spline back into position. Then scoop off the excess sealant that oozed out with a plastic spoon or a large plastic straw works well. Then clean the area with white cotton rags and lacquer thinner (again wearing a respirator).
Then repeat he process for the next area. I worked in areas about 3 to 6 feet at a time. Don't get too far ahead of yourself so you have time to tool the sealant and clean up before it sets up. I used the medium set sealant, they sell a fast set version of the same product. I am not the least bit interested in using it ,I could barely keep up with the medium.

PeterH-350LE · 12-19-2015, 08:47 AM

Greg, great info, thanks! Did the tape help to keep it off the unwanted areas or did it get too messed up in the cleaning process?

Danec020 · 12-19-2015, 10:11 AM

Looks like you did a very professional job, congrats! I will have to keep this thread in mind when I finally find a 20ft for myself. Thanks for doing a little write up of your process! I think you probably fixed any problems as well set up yourself for a long future without leaks!

-Dane

Gregsch · 12-19-2015, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

Greg, great info, thanks! Did the tape help to keep it off the unwanted areas or did it get too messed up in the cleaning process?

Yes , the tape did help. On the aluminum it was a big help, on the glass side not as much. The key to not making a mess is putting the right amount of sealant in the right place. The key to knowing how much comes from experience. By the way I went thru 3 pairs of nitrile gloves in the process and still ended up with black sealant on my fingers. That was 3 days ago and it is almost gone now.

FYI the sealant I used is 3M 08693. The single step primer is 3M 08682. The tapered end windshield stick setting tool was made by CRL. They all came from Amazon.
I almost hate to mention what sealant I used because of all the controversy about sealants on this site but, from my research I think this a good product for this application. It was good to work with and I was happy.
I am fairly confident that the problem is solved but, only time will tell.

I was quoted $460.00 for the gasket and $400-$800 to install it, for $75 it was worth the risk.
It is supposed to rain here Monday. I plan on putting her to the test then.

PeterH-350LE · 12-19-2015, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregsch

....

FYI the sealant I used is 3M 08693. The single step primer is 3M 08682. The tapered end windshield stick setting tool was made by CRL. They all came from Amazon.
I almost hate to mention what sealant I used because of all the controversy about sealants on this site but, from my research I think this a good product for this application. It was good to work with and I was happy.....

I can appreciate you being hesitant about the sealant used.
I felt pretty terrible when I suggested to Brad to use Sika-flex Move-it, which was recommended by my local glass company as a replacement for what I knew worked for 10 years. Well, it failed for both of us. I did some extensive tests with Vulkem116 and found it will stick well to aluminum, rubber and glass.

dadstoy · 12-19-2015, 02:53 PM

Awesome job Greg. Thanks for all the info. My windshield has been leaking for the last 7 yrs that I've had the MH. We haven't had much rain in the last couple of years, but I think it has been raining every day for the last two weeks up north and I dread going up there to see what is wet inside the MH.

I'm flying to Stow OH in mid January for training and I though that I would now trade in my $300 air ticket and drive the MH instead and just drop it off at your place for a windshield sealing service...wink wink!

Lets see...4800 miles round trip...$1800 in fuel...35 driving hours...

Well, I guess maybe I'll just have to deal with a very wet California winter and follow your instructions in the spring!

MrJ · 12-20-2015, 03:02 AM

great info, thanks!!

Gregsch · 12-20-2015, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dadstoy

Awesome job Greg. Thanks for all the info. My windshield has been leaking for the last 7 yrs that I've had the MH. We haven't had much rain in the last couple of years, but I think it has been raining every day for the last two weeks up north and I dread going up there to see what is wet inside the MH.

I'm flying to Stow OH in mid January for training and I though that I would now trade in my $300 air ticket and drive the MH instead and just drop it off at your place for a windshield sealing service...wink wink!

Lets see...4800 miles round trip...$1800 in fuel...35 driving hours...

Well, I guess maybe I'll just have to deal with a very wet California winter and follow your instructions in the spring!

Dean, Not sure I could help you this time of year. You would have to remove your A/C to get into my shop but, you are welcome to stop by next summer, I'd be happy to help you out.

Gregsch · 12-26-2015, 11:04 AM

Let it sit out in a pretty good rain. The windshield seems to be completely sealed. Very pleased.
I still have a leak at the top of both the drivers and passenger windows. Super disappointed about that. I just re-installed the ABS headliner. May have to pull it back out to see what's going on.

WayneG · 12-27-2015, 03:48 AM

You may want to recheck your marker lights. The wire and the screws make for easy path inside and the water will flow right to the top of the windshield opening.

Gregsch · 01-01-2016, 05:32 PM

Wayne, You are right the clearance lights should clearly be part of this discussion. They are known to leak after 30+ years. They are sealed from the factory by using butyl sealant on the inside. I re-sealed mine when I had the headliner out. If you do the work from the outside only be sure to put butyl sealant on the hole for the wire and both screw holes. I see no sense in sealing the outside of the fixture to the skin. Take the fixture off and seal the penetrations.

WayneG · 01-02-2016, 03:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregsch

Wayne, You are right the clearance lights should clearly be part of this discussion. They are known to leak after 30+ years. They are sealed from the factory by using butyl sealant on the inside. I re-sealed mine when I had the headliner out. If you do the work from the outside only be sure to put butyl sealant on the hole for the wire and both screw holes. I see no sense in sealing the outside of the fixture to the skin. Take the fixture off and seal the penetrations.

A little off topic but how do you, and how hard was it to get the headliner out?
Mine has some cracks starting in the rear and I am afraid if I pull it they will get worse. My roof has as huge dent from before I owned it and someday I need to get it popped back into shape.

Gregsch · 01-02-2016, 07:36 PM

Remove the trim that goes all the way around the moho , from the floor across the top and back down the other side. Remove the visors. Remove the curtain track. remove all exposed pop rivets. When all the fasteners are free pry the headliner towards the back of the coach until it comes free from the track in the front along the windshield. I would figure 4 to 6 hours. Get one of those rollers from aerowood, you will be surprised how well they work. I bet you can remove 90-95%of that dent. I have some posts on the ABS repair in Count down to kick off.

WayneG · 03-09-2016, 11:59 AM

March 9th and almost 80 degrees outside today in Upstate NY so I figured I would restart my Windshield sealing.
As the photos show, I have some fogging in the passenger side and it is starting in the drivers side.
I pulled the center strip from the gasket and I found the gasket has a split at the bottom on the passenger side. I will probably fill the split with gasket sealer.
I also noticed that there is no noticeable sealant under the glass or body side of the gasket. The gasket is very easy to lift up.

WayneG · 03-12-2016, 12:50 PM

Another nice day and I am working on cleaning the surfaces between the gasket and the glass & aluminum.
The passenger side gasket has no seal at all against the glass or the aluminum, but the drivers side has a some sealing but not a full seal. I am using a brass brush between the surfaces to loosen the residual glues & dirt, then compressed air to remove the crud and finally acetone to clean the surfaces.