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Old 01-02-2016, 04:31 AM   #57
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Wayne, You are right the clearance lights should clearly be part of this discussion. They are known to leak after 30+ years. They are sealed from the factory by using butyl sealant on the inside. I re-sealed mine when I had the headliner out. If you do the work from the outside only be sure to put butyl sealant on the hole for the wire and both screw holes. I see no sense in sealing the outside of the fixture to the skin. Take the fixture off and seal the penetrations.
A little off topic but how do you, and how hard was it to get the headliner out?
Mine has some cracks starting in the rear and I am afraid if I pull it they will get worse. My roof has as huge dent from before I owned it and someday I need to get it popped back into shape.
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Old 01-02-2016, 08:36 PM   #58
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Remove the trim that goes all the way around the moho , from the floor across the top and back down the other side. Remove the visors. Remove the curtain track. remove all exposed pop rivets. When all the fasteners are free pry the headliner towards the back of the coach until it comes free from the track in the front along the windshield. I would figure 4 to 6 hours. Get one of those rollers from aerowood, you will be surprised how well they work. I bet you can remove 90-95%of that dent. I have some posts on the ABS repair in Count down to kick off.
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Old 03-09-2016, 12:59 PM   #59
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March 9th and almost 80 degrees outside today in Upstate NY so I figured I would restart my Windshield sealing.
As the photos show, I have some fogging in the passenger side and it is starting in the drivers side.
I pulled the center strip from the gasket and I found the gasket has a split at the bottom on the passenger side. I will probably fill the split with gasket sealer.
I also noticed that there is no noticeable sealant under the glass or body side of the gasket. The gasket is very easy to lift up.
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Old 03-12-2016, 01:50 PM   #60
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Another nice day and I am working on cleaning the surfaces between the gasket and the glass & aluminum.
The passenger side gasket has no seal at all against the glass or the aluminum, but the drivers side has a some sealing but not a full seal. I am using a brass brush between the surfaces to loosen the residual glues & dirt, then compressed air to remove the crud and finally acetone to clean the surfaces.
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Old 03-19-2016, 09:37 PM   #61
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Wayne, I think I would be a little leary to keep that gasket. It looks pretty bad. By the time you clean everything and reseal it you will have a lot of time and effort invested. The last thing you would want to do is have to tear it all out and start over if it leaks. A new gasket should last another 30 years.
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:24 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregsch View Post
Wayne, You are right the clearance lights should clearly be part of this discussion. They are known to leak after 30+ years. They are sealed from the factory by using butyl sealant on the inside. I re-sealed mine when I had the headliner out. If you do the work from the outside only be sure to put butyl sealant on the hole for the wire and both screw holes. I see no sense in sealing the outside of the fixture to the skin. Take the fixture off and seal the penetrations.

I've taken a heat gun to the old sealant with a dull metal putty knife, that works pretty well. I've also used a propane torch. It will catch on fire a little, but you can easily get it off then.. My argosy's inside is stripped to the skin, so I can do that..
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Old 03-31-2016, 06:01 PM   #63
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Wayne, I think I would be a little leary to keep that gasket. It looks pretty bad. By the time you clean everything and reseal it you will have a lot of time and effort invested. The last thing you would want to do is have to tear it all out and start over if it leaks. A new gasket should last another 30 years.
I think I am beginning to get to the limits of my ability. I wanted to reinstall the gasket strip so that I can put masking tape in the right location to protect the glass and metal before adding the sealant, but installing the strip, even with the tool is to much for my upper body strength and agility. Even with soap, it is a major task getting it back together with the original gasket.
(I am hitting 62 this year and I had some shoulder surgery in January and I just dont have the strength I use to)
I have the metal, glass and original gasket fairly clean, but I dont think I can apply the sealant and install the strip in reasonable time before the sealant dries on me.
SO
I am calling local glass places and so far they are all balking about doing RV glass. There is one national place "Mobile RV Glass" and I am waiting for a call back.
Does anyone have any suggestions for someone to finish my glass sealing?
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Old 03-31-2016, 09:19 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by WayneG View Post
I think I am beginning to get to the limits of my ability. I wanted to reinstall the gasket strip so that I can put masking tape in the right location to protect the glass and metal before adding the sealant, but installing the strip, even with the tool is to much for my upper body strength and agility. Even with soap, it is a major task getting it back together with the original gasket.
(I am hitting 62 this year and I had some shoulder surgery in January and I just dont have the strength I use to)
I have the metal, glass and original gasket fairly clean, but I dont think I can apply the sealant and install the strip in reasonable time before the sealant dries on me.
SO
I am calling local glass places and so far they are all balking about doing RV glass. There is one national place "Mobile RV Glass" and I am waiting for a call back.
Does anyone have any suggestions for someone to finish my glass sealing?
Find a truck repair shop or a local truck fleet and ask them who does their glass work.
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Old 04-01-2016, 08:57 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneG View Post
I think I am beginning to get to the limits of my ability. I wanted to reinstall the gasket strip so that I can put masking tape in the right location to protect the glass and metal before adding the sealant, but installing the strip, even with the tool is to much for my upper body strength and agility. Even with soap, it is a major task getting it back together with the original gasket.
(I am hitting 62 this year and I had some shoulder surgery in January and I just dont have the strength I use to)
I have the metal, glass and original gasket fairly clean, but I dont think I can apply the sealant and install the strip in reasonable time before the sealant dries on me.
SO
I am calling local glass places and so far they are all balking about doing RV glass. There is one national place "Mobile RV Glass" and I am waiting for a call back.
Does anyone have any suggestions for someone to finish my glass sealing?
I admire a man who knows his limitations. I on the other hand, don't have a clue.
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Old 04-02-2016, 05:36 AM   #66
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I found one local shop through my motorhome mechanic but that shop has only done a few large vehicle windshields, so that may not be my best choice.
Yesterday Mobile RV Glass returned my call and told me that they do not get involved in windshield seal repairs, they only handle full replacements. They did give me the number of a local shop that they work with and it is likely they will be able to help me out.
I am debating if I should buy the new gasket for $315 for them to install. Of course doing that takes you to the next question if it is worth it to keep the fogged windshield or buy new ones. At $750 each, this starts to get expensive before figuring in the shops labor costs.
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:37 PM   #67
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[QUOTE=Gregsch;1724796]Okay, Got the windshield all sealed up this week.
Bought some new tools to get the

Awesome I'm going to try this now. Great pix! Thank you.

Question, where did you get the LED lights? Do you have a purchase info?
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Old 09-16-2017, 10:54 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregsch View Post
Remove the trim that goes all the way around the moho , from the floor across the top and back down the other side. Remove the visors. Remove the curtain track. remove all exposed pop rivets. When all the fasteners are free pry the headliner towards the back of the coach until it comes free from the track in the front along the windshield. I would figure 4 to 6 hours. Get one of those rollers from aerowood, you will be surprised how well they work. I bet you can remove 90-95%of that dent. I have some posts on the ABS repair in Count down to kick off.
My leak is back so I think it is time to pull the headliner and see where exactly it is coming from.
One concern I have is the cracks in the rear of the headliner. If I start flexing it, are the cracks going to get worse?
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Old 09-16-2017, 10:58 AM   #69
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Can I suggest you drill a small hole at the end of each crack before you start, this will stop them spreading and increase the chances of getting the end cap out in one piece.
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Old 09-16-2017, 11:28 AM   #70
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Thanks, I will give that a try.
I will also use some good quality duct tape going across all the cracks to help keep them from separating at the edge. I am wondering if I should glue a brace on top side before I reassemble it?
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