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Old 06-09-2015, 05:37 AM   #29
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1978 28' Argosy 28
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resolution and progress

A few misc things to report today. I installed the Canton Racing sandwich place 0-ring last night. Finally, no real leaks. I have a small dribble, but could be I need to retorque the oil pan bolts again. I'm attaching some pics of the new gasket, as well as the original and the generic o-ring supplied in the incorrect Fel-pro kit. The fel-pro orange o-ring is too large, as seen in the picture. The Canton racing o-ring is a little undersized, but is flexible. It took a bit of gentle stretching to get it to accommodate the relief in the cooler adapter. But. Results!

I also tore into the bathroom while waiting on parts for the engine. Pulled the ABS panel with the shower faucet so I could install a new one. The wood backing plate was falling apart and water damaged so I whipped up a new one out of ABS. Nothing too special, but should be a good solid mount to prevent any future water leaking through to the back.
That's the update for today.

BG
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Old 06-09-2015, 05:39 AM   #30
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more pics
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Old 06-16-2015, 05:15 AM   #31
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Tonights project. Wiring up a new boondocker power converter. My moho did not come with a converter, or any wiring, so, I'm trying to get it back to original fighting form. I've got the converter, as well as wiring kit. (3 wires. pos, neg and green ground cable.) I pulled a schematic from the net and would appreciate any feedback if it looks correct for my application. I have one house battery and a separate fuse panel with glass tubes. Haven't opened up the panel yet to see if it looks like the schematic.
Thoughts, tips appreciated. I'm no electrician but can hook up some wires as long as I know they're in the right spots!

BG
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Old 06-16-2015, 05:17 AM   #32
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Mm.. pic

...
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Old 06-16-2015, 05:41 AM   #33
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...
Hi Ben,
I am sure, you have the original fuse panel still intact behind the passenger seat? If so, it should be very straight forward. Just remember that the ground wire is fused as well, which can be confusing.
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Old 06-16-2015, 05:47 AM   #34
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79 Excella fuse panel and converter feed on top right
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Old 06-16-2015, 05:48 AM   #35
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Looks correct to me. I'm assuming your original coach DC fuse panel is still in place which means you just need to connect the + and - wires from the power converter to it.

Your power converter chassis definitely needs to be grounded to the coach chassis and should have a ground lug on the case somewhere for that purpose.

On the coach DC fuse panel there should be two large fuses. One should be for the DC + line from the converter and the other fuse should be for the - line from the converter.

Both fuses are probably in the 50 amp range.

Have fun!

Brad
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Old 06-16-2015, 06:05 AM   #36
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You guys are GREAT, thank you. I'll open up that fuse panel this evening for a look. Much easier job if I'm only connecting from the converter to the panel.. about 2 ft. I'll post up some pictures to have you all take a peak before I go live.
Again, much appreciated.

Ah, found a pic of what I've got. The interior doesn't resemble this anymore, but the panel and converter locations are untouched. Not quite the same as the Excella, but could just be they rotated the panel 90 in later years.
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Old 06-16-2015, 04:32 PM   #37
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It would appear the larger DC + and - fuses feeding the fuse panel are on the left size of the fuse panel opening. My guess is the large fuse at the top left is probably for the converter itself.

Or if I remember correctly my 20' Argosy may have had a third large fuse (as shown in your picture) for another DC circuit.

I'll look at my manual to see if I'm remembering correctly and let you know.

Brad
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Old 06-17-2015, 05:02 AM   #38
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converter shots

I took a look last night and found my panel doesn't look at all like the Excella panel Peter posted. (as you noted Brad) They did change the design after '78 apparently. I pulled my manuals out and verified mine is correct and all there. (cool, that's where the solenoid is.. weird, but good to know for future reference.) should have thought to use the manual earlier.
I attached some pictures of the wiring diagram for '78. Nothing I could find says the Univolt would have been connected to the fuse panel at all. Best I can tell, with this style of fuse panel, I should simply be connecting the new converter to pos/neg directly on the house battery. Then, the thick green wire to chassis ground. Does this make sense or sound correct?
Also, discovered I'll need to replace some wires heading into the solenoid. Broken ends! I think one of the main 50A fuses is toast also. The fuse looks intact, but there's some solder seeping out of the body as seen in pics.

Hopefully making progress here. I'd still appreciate some expert feedback to double check my thought process.

Ben
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Old 06-17-2015, 05:04 AM   #39
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2 more converter shots

Last 2 shots of the manual.
Trouble shooting #7 is the one that caught my attention.
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Old 06-17-2015, 05:31 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpg_austin View Post
I took a look last night and found my panel doesn't look at all like the Excella panel Peter posted. (as you noted Brad) They did change the design after '78 apparently. I pulled my manuals out and verified mine is correct and all there. (cool, that's where the solenoid is.. weird, but good to know for future reference.) should have thought to use the manual earlier.
Your panel looks a lot like the one that was in my 74 Argosy although mine did not have the relay or solenoid located inside the panel, they were under the dash.

Quote:
I attached some pictures of the wiring diagram for '78. Nothing I could find says the Univolt would have been connected to the fuse panel at all. Best I can tell, with this style of fuse panel, I should simply be connecting the new converter to pos/neg directly on the house battery. Then, the thick green wire to chassis ground. Does this make sense or sound correct?
Your interpretation is pretty much correct. Electrically it wouldn't matter where you connected the converter into the circuit. As long as the wire sizes are correct for the expected max amperage load it will work.

I think you'll find that the wires from the converter do go directly to the fuse panel. At least I believe that's how it was done in my Argosy and the coach battery cables ran from the battery compartment to the converter/fuse panel.

Quote:
Also, discovered I'll need to replace some wires heading into the solenoid. Broken ends! I think one of the main 50A fuses is toast also. The fuse looks intact, but there's some solder seeping out of the body as seen in pics.
Yep you're right, the crimp job on the solenoid wiring is a really poor job. It looks like half of the strands have been cut which means the cable isn't capable of carrying it's full current rating. My guess is they didn't have the right size crimp connector for the job and made a smaller one fit by trimming some of the strands off. Not a good practice!

When you pick up a replacement fuse, buy several as you never know when you'll need a replacement

Quote:
Hopefully making progress here. I'd still appreciate some expert feedback to double check my thought process.

Ben
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Old 06-17-2015, 06:34 AM   #41
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Last 2 shots of the manual.
Trouble shooting #7 is the one that caught my attention.
Looks like you have an open input hole on the right for the converter wires. I would use M at the solenoid for + and G for -
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Old 06-17-2015, 06:52 AM   #42
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Thanks guys. Mystery solved, looks like I'll up and running on 12v in no time. Awesome.
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