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Old 11-01-2015, 09:21 PM   #29
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Please don't in anyway think in this response that I know what I'm doing, but merely offering a suggestion.

Have the valence mounted on the coach. Construct a box with expansion holes that encompasses the valence but be an inch or so away from the face of the valence. Cover valence with Saran Wrap and Pam (release agent), mount box and then using expansion spray foam for windows and doors, spray through the expansion holes, just enough that the foam touches the valence part and expands through the expansion holes in the box. Let harden and then remove carefully, giving you a reverse hole that exactly mimics the valence in place.

Remove valence from truck and insert into foam shape, then you could foam the inside of the valence and let harden to maintain the valence's shape or by some other means build a structure on the inside that will maintain that shape, allowing you to pull the valence out and then create a mold on the outside of the valence that's an exact copy of the valence when installed on your coach.

The structure behind the valence could allow you to make repairs with Bondo or some other material, just so you could get an accurate mold. The repairs wouldn't have to be structural as the valence hopefully wouldn't be needed again.

Again please don't take this post as gospell.

Making popcorn
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Old 11-02-2015, 12:59 PM   #30
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Tony,

I'm open to anything that might work although at some point I'll have to pick one and move on with the project. There's a saying I've heard at several different projects I've worked on that goes something like this "There comes a time in every project when you must shoot the engineers and begin production."

I've not heard of that process before. Do you have any links for viewing?
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Old 11-03-2015, 08:50 PM   #31
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Sorry Brad I was away from the computer buying a Honda Pilot for the DW to get her off my back for the winter.

This video shows one type of expanding foam. The foam I would use comes in the cans so you could shoot it through the expansion holes in the box but you may find this foam cheaper or easier to use.



What I'm talking about is this.....Imagine wanting to make a impression of the piece he took out of the mold. So you would wrap the piece in Saran/Cling wrap, construct a box with expansion holes to allow the foam out. Place box over the piece and start foaming. After foam hardens, you remove the box and you have an impression of the piece that was molded.

So wrap your valence while still on your coach in Saran/Cling wrap. Construct a box to surround the valence and then add foam. Pull off box with hardened foam off valence. Now you have an impression of your valence while installed on your coach. Remove valence from coach and insert into impression. Now add structure behind the valence (foam and wood) so to hold the shape of the valence. Once structure has been added so the valence will retain that shape, you can remove from impression giving you a valence that has retained the exact shape that was on your coach but not installed. Now you can repair and prepare the valence to make a fibreglass mold of it.

Clear as mud?
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Old 11-03-2015, 11:59 PM   #32
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A bit of experience use the two part foam. The stuff in the spray cans must be exposed to air to cure. If you spray it in to fill the gap to your support box and have to add more to fill taps, the first part will return to liquid. If you spray some let it fully cure, maybe overnight and then add more the next day and it might work. I've tried more than once to build some up and it has always failed. The two part stuff works great but is not as handy and is much more expensive.
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Old 11-04-2015, 04:09 AM   #33
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Brad If you need me to I can you the info on the pellets I used but, I bet yours are the same. I put the pellets in a glass mason jar ( about half full) then fill the jar 3/4 full with MEK. It will take several days, open the jar , stir it up , then let it set for another day. repeat as required. . Use lots of Mek. If it is too runny simply pour out the amount you need for the current project and let the air get to it. stir occasionally to keep it consistent. It will get thicker pretty quickly. the MEK wil evaporate very quickly.
For the repairs to the existing valance try simply painting MEK on the back of the two pieces ,several coats until you have a nice thick slurry on the surface, then clamp them together for a few hours.
Look at the pics in my thread to see how I lapped a new piece over the old piece to reinforce it.
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Old 11-04-2015, 10:50 AM   #34
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Tony,

Now I see what you're talking about. I think it would be pretty difficult to build a box around the front of the valance while attached to the motorhome. The valance is fastened to the outer front corners of the shell and has the front bumper support bars sticking through it.

I'm pretty sure before I can make any mold I need to repair the tears and holes in the valance first. I think I've figure out a way to make a support jig for the valance. Once I have that made I can make any repairs needed to the valance. Once mounted to the support jig I can evaluate whether molding foam would be a viable alternative.

However after watching the video of the 2-part foam process I've got some ideas for using it in other projects!

Brad
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Old 11-04-2015, 10:52 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smartstream View Post
...The two part stuff works great but is not as handy and is much more expensive.
I tried searching for someone that sells the 2-part stuff and couldn't find any sources.
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:02 AM   #36
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Quote:
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Brad If you need me to I can you the info on the pellets I used but, I bet yours are the same. I put the pellets in a glass mason jar ( about half full) then fill the jar 3/4 full with MEK. It will take several days, open the jar , stir it up , then let it set for another day. repeat as required. . Use lots of Mek. If it is too runny simply pour out the amount you need for the current project and let the air get to it. stir occasionally to keep it consistent. It will get thicker pretty quickly. the MEK wil evaporate very quickly.
For the repairs to the existing valance try simply painting MEK on the back of the two pieces ,several coats until you have a nice thick slurry on the surface, then clamp them together for a few hours.
Look at the pics in my thread to see how I lapped a new piece over the old piece to reinforce it.
Greg,

These are the pellets that I purchased. ABS Virgin pellets

I've had a jar of the pellets covered in MEK for about 5 days now. I haven't checked them for the last couple of days but will do so tonight. Assuming they haven't melted yet I've got some scrap ABS that I'll try this evening. I haven't been able to get time to work in the shop since last Friday. Way to much other stuff going on right now

I'll try painting some MEK on the backside of some of the cracks this evening to see if that does anything.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:04 AM   #37
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I think this is the stuff Brad,

Liquid Urethane Foam Kit, 2 Lb Density, Includes 1 Gallon Part A & 1 Gallon Part B: Other Products: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I have never used it but seen it used for molding race car seats etc
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:08 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Greg,

These are the pellets that I purchased. ABS Virgin pellets

I've had a jar of the pellets covered in MEK for about 5 days now. I haven't checked them for the last couple of days but will do so tonight. Assuming they haven't melted yet I've got some scrap ABS that I'll try this evening. I haven't been able to get time to work in the shop since last Friday. Way to much other stuff going on right now

I'll try painting some MEK on the backside of some of the cracks this evening to see if that does anything.

Thanks!

Brad
Although it really isn't clear from the listing the PC part of the name means polycarbonate.

If you search for Polymer Resources PC /ABS-FR1 (the long name shwon lower in the listing) it gives the details.
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:57 AM   #39
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Although it really isn't clear from the listing the PC part of the name means polycarbonate.

If you search for Polymer Resources PC /ABS-FR1 (the long name shwon lower in the listing) it gives the details.
Wouldn't you know I would just happen to order pellets with PC in the label Not that I knew what that meant until just recently

I think I'll try these pellets next.
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Old 11-04-2015, 12:08 PM   #40
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I think this is the stuff Brad,

Liquid Urethane Foam Kit, 2 Lb Density, Includes 1 Gallon Part A & 1 Gallon Part B: Other Products: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I have never used it but seen it used for molding race car seats etc
Interesting stuff. The molding foam in the video is listed as 3 lb density, the above is 2 lb. I wonder how much difference that makes. I've sent a note off to the Industrial Polymers asking about price. It will be interesting to see what they have to say.

Brad
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Old 11-04-2015, 05:44 PM   #41
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Just finished in the shop for the evening. The cans of MEK that I have are definitely MEK. Using a cotton swab I brushed some on one of the cracks of the valance and it definitely melted the plastic. I just ordered more ABS pellets, this time I hope they are the right ones

I thought about using some of the scrap ABS that I have laying around and it's pretty grungy and painted so I've opted to wait for the new stuff to come in before making repairs.

Several areas of the valance have been warped or deformed, is there a recommended method of reshaping the warped areas? I'm thinking heat gun but thought I would ask before attempting it.

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Old 11-04-2015, 11:03 PM   #42
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Interesting stuff. The molding foam in the video is listed as 3 lb density, the above is 2 lb. I wonder how much difference that makes. I've sent a note off to the Industrial Polymers asking about price. It will be interesting to see what they have to say.

Brad
That is the stuff. The density has to do with how dense it is when cured for insulation and flotation purposes. It's used a lot on boats for flotation and sandwich core deck construction. Marine supply outfits have it in different size kits.
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