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Old 07-21-2016, 06:41 PM   #15
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1977 20' Argosy 20
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Argosy Automatic Transfer Switch

As far I know none of the Argosy MHs had an automatic transfer switch. They came from the factory with a manual transfer arrangement. Look at some of the later posts under "Peanut Lives" and we talk a little about the power transfer arrangement for the Argosy MHs.
Any Argosy MHs with automatic transfer would have been retrofitted after leaving the factory. Adding an automatic transfer should be straight forward.
Gregg
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Old 07-21-2016, 07:04 PM   #16
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It's an onan color box and the manual transfer switch( the outlet) was removed but I have it . I don't like the shore power cord not in a box to hold the end ,so not to pull on the wire nuts.
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Old 07-21-2016, 07:25 PM   #17
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Power Transfer

It sounds like the original configuration has been changed somewhere along the way.

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In the photo the output of the generator is the 30 amp receptacle. The shore power cord extending out through the hole in the floor goes to an external power source. The shore power cord is wired through the junction box to the AC breaker panel inside the coach. To get power from the generator, unplug the shore power cord from the external source, push the cord back through the hole in the floor, and plug into the generator through the 30 amp outlet.

In your case an Onan Green box sounds like some kind of modification has been done. I agree with you that the shore power cord needs to be secured with more than wire nuts. I think that you may need to figure out what has been done and work from there. Possibly the green box may have transfer relays in it.

Good Luck
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:38 PM   #18
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I need to find an alternator it's 63 amp now I would like 80_100 amp ,none at Napa, any thoughts on jegs one wire 100 amp thanks .
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:43 PM   #19
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I need to find an alternator it's 63 amp now I would like 80_100 amp ,none at Napa, any thoughts on jegs one wire 100 amp thanks .
Stay away from the one wire alternators. You won't get a proper charge due to the lack of a remote sensing wire.

I bought this 94 amp alternator for Peanut. It was a direct bolt in replacement for the 94 amp alternator that was in Peanut before.
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:11 PM   #20
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That site said it doesn't fit .I have a 63amp now,,to me it looks like it would fit ..
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Old 07-26-2016, 06:24 PM   #21
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That site said it doesn't fit .I have a 63amp now,,to me it looks like it would fit ..
It'll fit. Those vehicle fitment guides seem to be wrong more often than they are right.

GM used one style of alternator for years and years, just different current ratings depending on vehicle.
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:21 PM   #22
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Here's my next question,I have to spray the carb with carb cleaner every time I want to start if it sits at all I read about adding an electric fuel pump to prime the system and use under heavy load ,is this the only solution ?has anyone tried any other ways to solve the problem like hi out put pump ,the system should not empty from sitting the way the carb is made.
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:53 AM   #23
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Here's my next question,I have to spray the carb with carb cleaner every time I want to start if it sits at all I read about adding an electric fuel pump to prime the system and use under heavy load ,is this the only solution ?has anyone tried any other ways to solve the problem like hi out put pump ,the system should not empty from sitting the way the carb is made.
It seems all of my old carbureated vehicles have this same sort of problem. Depending on how long they sit I sometimes have to use starter fluid to get them going.

I believe the problem is due to the cocktail of chemicals used in modern fuels. The fuel just seems to evaporate from the system after a few days.

My Triumph TR4 has twin carburetors and if I've been driving it regular (like once a day) it always starts right up the next day. The longer I let it sit the longer it takes to start. I had converted it to electric pump and I've found that if I turn the ignition to the On position and let the pump run for a while then starting is a lot easier.

Fuel injected vehicles don't have this problem due to the fact the fuel is under higher pressure and is being forced into the intake manifold instead of being drawn by vacuum as the engine is cranking. This issue is just one more reason I'm glad that I've converted my Argosy over to throttle body injection!

Brad
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:31 AM   #24
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I believe adding the electric fuel pump will solve your problem.
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:28 AM   #25
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Just to clarify something. Most modern vehicles with electric fuel pumps will only allow the fuel pump to run for something like 2 seconds when you first try starting the engine and if oil pressure is achieved then the pump will stay running. If oil pressure is not achieved (i.e. engine didn't start) then the fuel pump will stop running.

On my TR4 I have the pump wired directly to the ignition ON switch position so the pump will run anytime the ignition is in the ON position even if the engine is not running. This is not necessarily the safest way to do things, especially if you are in a wreck.

However from what I have seen this is how GM (and Airstream) wired the electric pumps that are located near the fuel tanks. If the ignition is ON then the fuel pump is running. The reason modern vehicles have the pumps tied to oil pressure is so if you are in a wreck the fuel pump will shut off (assuming the engine stops running after the wreck).
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Old 08-18-2016, 06:24 PM   #26
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Thanks an electric pump it is. Next can any one tell weather the tail go inside the shocks or outside ? The old were inside and it melted the flex brake line and they don't quite sticky out far enough for me. The walker mufflers seem well made and fit great the listing was wrong 2and a half both ends no exit was 2and a quarter just like the tail pipes.
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Old 08-18-2016, 06:25 PM   #27
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Tail pipes sorry.
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:03 PM   #28
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The pipes are on with chrome tips , temp gauge installed ,electric fuel pump next On with key switch toggle override.New alternator is in 93amp.
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