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07-26-2016, 06:24 PM
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#21
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonesy 1
That site said it doesn't fit .I have a 63amp now,,to me it looks like it would fit ..
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It'll fit. Those vehicle fitment guides seem to be wrong more often than they are right.
GM used one style of alternator for years and years, just different current ratings depending on vehicle.
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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08-07-2016, 08:21 PM
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#22
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2 Rivet Member
1977 28' Argosy 28
dexter
, New York
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 59
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Here's my next question,I have to spray the carb with carb cleaner every time I want to start if it sits at all I read about adding an electric fuel pump to prime the system and use under heavy load ,is this the only solution ?has anyone tried any other ways to solve the problem like hi out put pump ,the system should not empty from sitting the way the carb is made.
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08-08-2016, 07:53 AM
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#23
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonesy 1
Here's my next question,I have to spray the carb with carb cleaner every time I want to start if it sits at all I read about adding an electric fuel pump to prime the system and use under heavy load ,is this the only solution ?has anyone tried any other ways to solve the problem like hi out put pump ,the system should not empty from sitting the way the carb is made.
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It seems all of my old carbureated vehicles have this same sort of problem. Depending on how long they sit I sometimes have to use starter fluid to get them going.
I believe the problem is due to the cocktail of chemicals used in modern fuels. The fuel just seems to evaporate from the system after a few days.
My Triumph TR4 has twin carburetors and if I've been driving it regular (like once a day) it always starts right up the next day. The longer I let it sit the longer it takes to start. I had converted it to electric pump and I've found that if I turn the ignition to the On position and let the pump run for a while then starting is a lot easier.
Fuel injected vehicles don't have this problem due to the fact the fuel is under higher pressure and is being forced into the intake manifold instead of being drawn by vacuum as the engine is cranking. This issue is just one more reason I'm glad that I've converted my Argosy over to throttle body injection!
Brad
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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08-08-2016, 10:31 AM
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#24
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Gunter
1966 24' Tradewind
1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Greenville
, Ohio
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 347
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I believe adding the electric fuel pump will solve your problem.
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Gunter
2000 Land Yacht XL 355
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08-08-2016, 11:28 AM
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#25
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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Just to clarify something. Most modern vehicles with electric fuel pumps will only allow the fuel pump to run for something like 2 seconds when you first try starting the engine and if oil pressure is achieved then the pump will stay running. If oil pressure is not achieved (i.e. engine didn't start) then the fuel pump will stop running.
On my TR4 I have the pump wired directly to the ignition ON switch position so the pump will run anytime the ignition is in the ON position even if the engine is not running. This is not necessarily the safest way to do things, especially if you are in a wreck.
However from what I have seen this is how GM (and Airstream) wired the electric pumps that are located near the fuel tanks. If the ignition is ON then the fuel pump is running. The reason modern vehicles have the pumps tied to oil pressure is so if you are in a wreck the fuel pump will shut off (assuming the engine stops running after the wreck).
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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08-18-2016, 06:24 PM
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#26
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2 Rivet Member
1977 28' Argosy 28
dexter
, New York
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 59
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Thanks an electric pump it is. Next can any one tell weather the tail go inside the shocks or outside ? The old were inside and it melted the flex brake line and they don't quite sticky out far enough for me. The walker mufflers seem well made and fit great the listing was wrong 2and a half both ends no exit was 2and a quarter just like the tail pipes.
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08-18-2016, 06:25 PM
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#27
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2 Rivet Member
1977 28' Argosy 28
dexter
, New York
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 59
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Tail pipes sorry.
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09-01-2016, 07:03 PM
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#28
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2 Rivet Member
1977 28' Argosy 28
dexter
, New York
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 59
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The pipes are on with chrome tips , temp gauge installed ,electric fuel pump next On with key switch toggle override.New alternator is in 93amp.
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01-27-2019, 10:34 AM
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#29
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2 Rivet Member
1977 28' Argosy 28
dexter
, New York
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 59
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Next problem a thermostat for the heater sunbeam I believe a cheap one from Lowe’s lasted about one try over heated the antisapator? The tiny wire wrapped dimmer like setting thingy can I use a 110 volt baseboard heater thermostat . My thought is the Home Depot one was for house 5 v it can’t take 12 v the 110 v can it’s just a on off thermostat
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