Argosy 20' MH restoration

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by GREEN ARGOSY

Hi Brad aka my teacher,

Thank you very much!!
You give me the answer that is what I needed.

I'll make a spacer, and never use a slip-yoke on the Argosy.
I'm going to install the trans and driveshafts then measure the length of the spacer needing.

Yuki,

Yuki,

Here's the diagram I used to figure out how long to make my spacer.



Note, my yoke shaft length was 3.5 inches long. I chose to have it stick out of the tail shaft housing 0.5 inches. I decided to purchase a new yoke due to wear on the shaft where the seal is located.

After you get the engine & transmission installed you might want to install the drive shaft to verify the amount that was removed is sufficient.

I hope this helps.

Brad

[GREEN ARGOSY]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Yuki,

Here's the diagram I used to figure out how long to make my spacer.

Attachment 353244

Note, my yoke shaft length was 3.5 inches long. I chose to have it stick out of the tail shaft housing 0.5 inches. I decided to purchase a new yoke due to wear on the shaft where the seal is located.

After you get the engine & transmission installed you might want to install the drive shaft to verify the amount that was removed is sufficient.

I hope this helps.

Brad

Brad,

Thank you for giving me details of the spacer.

What did you make the spacer from?
Steel or aluminum pipe?

I'm thinking to use slip yoke's shaft for the spacer.
I'll get a long slip yoke then cut its shaft.
Probably that is the easiest way to get same diameter pipe as the yoke over here.




And other option, I've found an output shaft spacer on YouTube.
They have 4L80E on their El Camino.


The 4L80E has a long output shaft like mine.


And they're using fixed yoke as well.
I think it's same setup as mine.

I looked for that spacer on the Internet, I've found a few similar stuffs which called "Output shaft sleeve".
However I don't know their details and lengths, the shops didn't say the item dimension.
Anyway I'm not sure it could be able to solve my issue.

I only know that should get the engine, transmission & driveshafts installed first!

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by GREEN ARGOSY

Brad,

Thank you for giving me details of the spacer.

What did you make the spacer from?
Steel or aluminum pipe?

Aluminum is to soft. I had the local machinist fabricate the spacer and I think he started with a solid steel bar (cold rolled steel) and bored it out large enough to easily slip over the shaft and then turned it down to the correct outer dimension.

I'm thinking to use slip yoke's shaft for the spacer.
I'll get a long slip yoke then cut its shaft.
Probably that is the easiest way to get same diameter pipe as the yoke over here.

That should work as long as the splines on the shaft go far enough back that the spacer doesn't bottom out before it hits the bearing. You will find however that the yoke material is rather hard and could be difficult to machine. No matter what you will want this work done on a lathe.

Attachment 353282
And other option, I've found an output shaft spacer on YouTube.
They have 4L80E on their El Camino.

Attachment 353281
The 4L80E has a long output shaft like mine.

Attachment 353283
And they're using fixed yoke as well.
I think it's same setup as mine.

Do you have the youtube video link?

I looked for that spacer on the Internet, I've found a few similar stuffs which called "Output shaft sleeve".
However I don't know their details and lengths, the shops didn't say the item dimension.
Anyway I'm not sure it could be able to solve my issue.

I only know that should get the engine, transmission & driveshafts installed first!

Yes I would suggest installing the engine and transmission and then install the drive shaft to see where the yoke needs to be. That will help you determine the correct spacer length.

You will need to ensure the spacer is machined such that the ends are perpendicular to the shaft. If not machined properly you could have uneven pressure on the bearing.

Brad

[GREEN ARGOSY]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Aluminum is to soft. I had the local machinist fabricate the spacer and I think he started with a solid steel bar (cold rolled steel) and bored it out large enough to easily slip over the shaft and then turned it down to the correct outer dimension.



That should work as long as the splines on the shaft go far enough back that the spacer doesn't bottom out before it hits the bearing. You will find however that the yoke material is rather hard and could be difficult to machine. No matter what you will want this work done on a lathe.



Do you have the youtube video link?



Yes I would suggest installing the engine and transmission and then install the drive shaft to see where the yoke needs to be. That will help you determine the correct spacer length.

You will need to ensure the spacer is machined such that the ends are perpendicular to the shaft. If not machined properly you could have uneven pressure on the bearing.

Brad

Hi Brad,

I was thinking aluminum could be easy fabrication the spacer, because it's soft. But soft meant not strong..
OK, I understand. I need to make it by steel.
And the yoke material must be hard, I would not be able to cut it with my tools, the spacer needs precision machining.
Conclusion, I should ask a machinist to making that.


Here is the video link.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQNL...L&index=2&t=0s

I love El Camino!

Thank you,
Yuki.

[bkahler]

That is an interesting video. From what I could see he is using a fixed yoke with a slip-yoke fitting inside. I don't understand how that would work because as you found out when you tighten the yoke down it is forced into the tail shaft housing and binds (won't turn). That is why a spacer is needed. I believe I had the same issue which is why I made a spacer.

On mine the tail shaft was 5.3125 inches long from the bearing face to the end of the shaft. Is that what your's measures?

Brad

[GREEN ARGOSY]

Originally Posted by bkahler

That is an interesting video. From what I could see he is using a fixed yoke with a slip-yoke fitting inside. I don't understand how that would work because as you found out when you tighten the yoke down it is forced into the tail shaft housing and binds (won't turn). That is why a spacer is needed. I believe I had the same issue which is why I made a spacer.

On mine the tail shaft was 5.3125 inches long from the bearing face to the end of the shaft. Is that what your's measures?

Brad

Brad,

I have no idea how the sleeve works.


I have found a similar sleeve on ebay. The seller said "Slip yoke tube / sleeve".
Maybe I cannot use it, and it wouldn't be able to solve my issue.


Anyway I removed a tail housing and measured length of the output shaft today.


It's about 135mm (5.3125 inches)
Probably I have same output shaft as yours.


Perhaps my transmission needed the right one. That is an output shaft for fixed yoke I suppose.
I guess, the transmission shop made a margin to match for the shortened driveshaft. If the driveshaft is too short, it cannot connect to the fixed yoke so they intended to use like a slip style.
It might be able to adjust a little bit the total driveshaft lengths.

Argosies have a center support on the driveshaft so the front driveshaft doesn't move forward and backward that why we don't need slip yoke. But that won't move so if I use slip yoke it keeps same place on the output shaft.
It was not fixed but does not move.

However I'm not sure about that.
I need more study..


I'll make a spacer to fill the gap like this!

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by GREEN ARGOSY

Brad,

I have no idea how the sleeve works.

Attachment 353650
I have found a similar sleeve on ebay. The seller said "Slip yoke tube / sleeve".
Maybe I cannot use it, and it wouldn't be able to solve my issue.

The slip yoke tube has a seal inside that allows the yoke to slide in and out without leaking oil. I don't recommend using this method.

Attachment 353651
Anyway I removed a tail housing and measured length of the output shaft today.

Attachment 353652
It's about 135mm (5.3125 inches)
Probably I have same output shaft as yours.

I believe yours and mine are the same output shaft and tail housing.

Attachment 353653
Perhaps my transmission needed the right one. That is an output shaft for fixed yoke I suppose.

That is correct. When I had the transmission shop rebuild my 4L80e I requested the fixed yoke output shaft be installed.

I guess, the transmission shop made a margin to match for the shortened driveshaft. If the driveshaft is too short, it cannot connect to the fixed yoke so they intended to use like a slip style.
It might be able to adjust a little bit the total driveshaft lengths.

Argosies have a center support on the driveshaft so the front driveshaft doesn't move forward and backward that why we don't need slip yoke. But that won't move so if I use slip yoke it keeps same place on the output shaft.
It was not fixed but does not move.

However I'm not sure about that.
I need more study..

Your shortened drive shaft is slightly longer than mine by about 6 mm (0.23"). That should not be a problem. The driveshaft will have a slight amount of movement available inside the carrier bearing. You could also shorten the shaft spacer by a mm or so as well.

I strongly recommend that you have the engine and transmission installed in the chassis. Slide the yoke over the shaft, install the drive shaft and connect it to the yoke. You can then determine exactly how long your spacer needs to be.

Attachment 353654
I'll make a spacer to fill the gap like this!

As long as the yoke doesn't rub against the end of the tail shaft housing you should be good to go.

Brad

[GREEN ARGOSY]

Originally Posted by bkahler

The slip yoke tube has a seal inside that allows the yoke to slide in and out without leaking oil. I don't recommend using this method.



I believe yours and mine are the same output shaft and tail housing.



That is correct. When I had the transmission shop rebuild my 4L80e I requested the fixed yoke output shaft be installed.



Your shortened drive shaft is slightly longer than mine by about 6 mm (0.23"). That should not be a problem. The driveshaft will have a slight amount of movement available inside the carrier bearing. You could also shorten the shaft spacer by a mm or so as well.

I strongly recommend that you have the engine and transmission installed in the chassis. Slide the yoke over the shaft, install the drive shaft and connect it to the yoke. You can then determine exactly how long your spacer needs to be.



As long as the yoke doesn't rub against the end of the tail shaft housing you should be good to go.

Brad

Thank you Brad!

I understand about the slip yoke tube. Thank you.
Anyways, I don't need it.

I'm going to install the engine, transmission and driveshafts in the chassis this weekend.

[GREEN ARGOSY]

I discovered this rig today.
I saw an RV shop near the rig, maybe it's their stock.

I'm surprised when I found it, because Airstream motorhome is rare in Japan!

[chevy2man]

Originally Posted by GREEN ARGOSY

Attachment 353783

I discovered this rig today.

I saw an RV shop near the rig, maybe it's their stock.



I'm surprised when I found it, because Airstream motorhome is rare in Japan!

Very cool!

[bkahler]

Looks to be about a 24 to 28 foot unit.

Yuki, did you stop by for a closer look?

[GREEN ARGOSY]

chevy2man,
Yes! That's very cool!!
I found that Airstream when I was driving a car, I just saw part of its A-pillar from far away on the road. But I was convinced it is an Airstream motorhome. So I returned and took pictures!

Brad,
Probably it's 28 foot unit, isn't it?
That's longer than mine.
I wanted to look it up close..
However the rig was parked on their private property I was not able to get closer. That's why I don't have good pictures!

[martin300662]

Hey Yuki

I hope you managed to ride out Typhoon Hagibis, it looks like it rode in straight over Yokohama.

Fingers crossed everything survived unscathed.

[Isuzusweet]

Yeah Yuki, hunker down and stay alive Samurai.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

[GREEN ARGOSY]

Originally Posted by martin300662

Hey Yuki

I hope you managed to ride out Typhoon Hagibis, it looks like it rode in straight over Yokohama.

Fingers crossed everything survived unscathed.

Martin,
Thank you for your concern.
Hagibis was very strong typhoon, it went over Yokohama, Tokyo and Kanto area. Many cities are flooding by typhoon. I live in Kanto area but fortunately me and Argosy survive.

[GREEN ARGOSY]

Originally Posted by Isuzusweet

Yeah Yuki, hunker down and stay alive Samurai.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

Tony,
Thank you for your concern.
The lazy Samurai is still alive!

[GREEN ARGOSY]

I installed a transmission in the Argosy.
I don't have a transmission jack so used a table lift instead of that.
I needed a little bit tilt the transmission with some wood pieces when combine to an engine, anyway it worked OK.



Next, I made holes for a crossmember on the chassis.
It was able to use existing rear holes for the front mounting bolts.
So I needed to make holes for rear mounting bolts.


I used an upper crossmember to marking the new holes.


It's easy to make holes!



The bottom bracket holes aren't same pitch as the upper bracket.
I marked center line of the hole then drilled out.


The transmission was mounted on the chassis.


Super narrow clearance between the trans and frame.


I'm going to measure length of a spacer for the fixed yoke.
It might not make me nervous, a carrier bearing allows slight adjustment the driveshaft back and forth.

Anyway I need to modify a shift linkage as well.

[bkahler]

Yuki,

Here's my write up on how I made the shift linkage modification.

You can order the correct shifter label with OD for your steering column. I will compare my column to Peanut to be sure but this one should work for you.

I wish I had had my floor removed when I moved the transmission mount. It was a real pain trying to drill those upper holes from underneath!

Brad

[GREEN ARGOSY]

Brad,

Thank you

Here's my write up on how I made the shift linkage modification.

Of course I've read your post already!

You can order the correct shifter label with OD for your steering column. I will compare my column to Peanut to be sure but this one should work for you.

That shift indicator is a good price! I need it.


I bought wrong one. I should have checked the original shift indicator shape before ordered..

I wish I had had my floor removed when I moved the transmission mount. It was a real pain trying to drill those upper holes from underneath!

Yeah! I think it was hard to make the holes from underneath!
Definitely my drill would hit the chassis I'll not be able to make the hole straightly.

[GREEN ARGOSY]

I did mods a shift linkage rod today.
A shift pivot backed a little bit, so the shift linkage rod needs to lengthen.


I checked the length with a pipe and bolt.
It needed to extend about 100mm.



Cut the rod and bolt, then weld it together.


It worked great, all of the gears were shifted.


Parking, Revers and Neutral are OK.


But my shift indicator doesn't have "OD" position, the "D" means overdrive on it.


I concerned about clearance between the shift linkage rod and headers so I checked.


There is a little bit gap the shift linkage rod didn't hit headers.


I'm very satisfied!