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Old 11-10-2017, 01:45 AM   #15
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1984 27' Airstream 270
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I would think that if you have a good oil cooler and it is keeping up with the heat load, then carrying extra oil in the pan is not of much use. It just adds to the vehicle weight and reduces ground clearance.
For the broken gear, I dont know what the 454 has for valve clearance to the top of the piston, but you may want to pull the heads to see if there is any damage on the top side. It does sound like it is time for a rebuild or a swap. A gear should not fail like that without some underlying cause.
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Old 11-10-2017, 11:15 AM   #16
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I think you're right, I just keep trying to delay what seems like inevitable and trying to research what might be the best solution for both engine removal and what to replace it with. The 8.1 and Allison swap seems a bit outside my ability as do the diesel swaps. A rebuild seems possible but I'm now concerned about it's longevity. It seems like these things just eat engines. All of this before I ever even used it once! just puts you in a generally grumpy mood. Now that I have removed everything in front of the engine it seems like the best option is to pull it out the front. I guess I'll head out to buy a hoist and keep unbolting things!
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Old 11-10-2017, 11:26 AM   #17
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To be brutally honest, 90% of break downs are before you get a chance to use them!

Take a look at Tap's thread in the Classic motorhome section, or the amount of shops Bella went through, jezz even Peanut was given a clean bill of health by a shop in Florida and I was told it only needed new tires to be able to drive to Brad's.

Any that have not been in routine use will swallow a whole load of time/money to get them reusable, even if they look great
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Old 11-10-2017, 11:39 AM   #18
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You should be able to beg borrow or rent a hoist, save some big bucks and garage space.
As for the Airstream/Argosies eating engines, I have not found that in any of mine.
My 84 did come with a rebuilt motor from GM Goodwrench. One of the original owners threw a rod at 44K miles in 1990. The bill for parts and labor was about $3600. I have just over 100K on it now and it runs fine.
Before you toss the engine oil, send it in to have in analyzed for what is in it.
I use Blackstone Labs to do my oil and tranny fluid.
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Old 11-10-2017, 02:05 PM   #19
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No I did nor remove the saddle I made a plate to bolt on where the carburetor fits with a U bolt coming out the top and put the hook of the cherry picker directly onto the U bolt lifted the engine, removed the engine mounts rolled the hoist back as I lowered it down. I did remove the transmission cross brace and drive shaft. With the coach Jacked up, and the radiator removed, the hoist will fit right through to the engine. It really was not that hard. I would look forward to helping someone do it again
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Old 11-10-2017, 03:16 PM   #20
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I emptied my oil into the pan right after I emptied my coolant. I still have the oil but I'm not sure if it would be a good sample. I might try to rent or borrow a lift when I get to that point. I need to carve off some more of the stuff on the front of the engine but I really think I'm just about there. Bibbs, did you take the transmission right on out with the engine then? did it fit over the front bumper? It looks like there really is plenty of room once I get everything carved off the front. It wouldn't be too bad to work on it if it wasn't 30 degrees. I'm dreaming of motors now that I know I'll have an option to put something else in there. I'm looking at it a couple different ways. I haven't even owned it a week so whatever this costs me will be amortized over the entire length of time I own the coach(which i hope to be a while) and the other way is that I haven't even owned it a week so I'd just like to get something simple and cheap put back in and be able to use the dang thing.
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Old 11-11-2017, 08:43 AM   #21
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In my coach there was no way it would come out the front with out cutting the 2x2 steel frame,that was in the way. That's why I dropped it out the back, yes with tranny still attached. Mine was a 75' they may have changed the frame, on yours.
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Old 11-15-2017, 09:26 AM   #22
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This thread might come to an end short of rebuilding the engine. Since I'm pulling the interior out to renovate and the subfloor needs to go anyway I was able to remove the bolted on angle aluminum that my transmission was interfering with when I tried to jacked the motor up to remove the oil pan. I potentially didn't need to removed the oil pan but I did. Without removing the piece of metal I just couldn't get the engine high enough(as posted on other threads). If it wasn't a newer engine I would have probably just pulled the whole thing but since it is less than 20 years old I really wanted to avoid pulling it all out. We'll see if I regret that as soon as this weekend. Thanks for all the tips and help!
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Old 11-15-2017, 09:42 AM   #23
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I'm not sure which way you're trying to remove the engine. With the 77 and later coaches it's not overly difficult to remove it out the front. The oil pan stays in place but you need to remove the exhaust manifolds and the stuff on top of the engine including the carburetor. You then bolt one of these lifting plates where the carburetor mounts.

I've removed three engines this way and installed one. Starting at post 655 you can see where I installed the 454 in my Argosy.

It's not really difficult, it's just time consuming. It's a lot easier on a 77 and up vehicle than it is on the 74-76 Argosies.

Brad
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Old 11-15-2017, 09:57 AM   #24
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I only pulled the pan off to get the timing cover off and to inspect the bottom end. I didn't need to remove the engine if I could just get the pan off removed the chunks of timing gear and replace pan. Plan B was to remove the engine right through the front. I just couldn't get the engine jacked up enough to get the pan off without removing an angled piece of aluminum at the very front of the subfloor. If it turns out that something is totally awry then I guess I'll have to pull the engine out and totally rebuild or replace, I was just trying to avoid that if at all possible. We shall see soon enough if she breathes fire again!
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Old 11-15-2017, 01:40 PM   #25
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Ok, gotcha. It would certainly be nice if you don't have to pull the engine.

Brad
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Old 12-28-2017, 02:15 PM   #26
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If you reach in and drop the oil pump most of the time the pan slides out easy .
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Old 02-20-2018, 10:35 PM   #27
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First I have heard about fuel lines. Is this just an Argosy thing? I have a 83 300.
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Old 02-21-2018, 06:03 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkaftan View Post
First I have heard about fuel lines. Is this just an Argosy thing? I have a 83 300.
Nope, all of the Argosies and Classic's have the same issue with fuel lines. If the rubber fuel lines haven't been changed in the last four or five years then it's time to replace them with the more modern fuel lines that don't deteriorate from the modern fuels in use today.

Rotten fuel lines are a fire waiting to happen. Don't forget about the rubber lines above the gas tank.

Brad
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