'74 Argosy 20' Motorhome restoration/rebuild

[martin300662]

All you need is a seat and a steering wheel and I am sure you could drive out of there!

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by martin300662

All you need is a seat and a steering wheel and I am sure you could drive out of there!

Oh how I wish it was that easy!

[bkahler]

This morning I did some fine tuning of the dash and the dash top fitment. Airstream did a lousy job of fitting them together originally so it's been a challenge to get things lined up to where the fit looks right but I think I've got it close enough. I can now pull the dash top back off for painting.


I figured this would be a good time to see how the flip screen Jensen radio was going to fit. I was hoping the radio would be able to sit down flush with the dash but that's not going to be the case. I have to space the radio out about an 1" or so to get the screen to where it will flip open and not hit the top of the plastic dash.


I found a 25mm spacer on ebay so I ordered it and we'll see how well it fits.


Brad

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bkahler

I have to space the radio out about an 1" or so to get the screen to where it will flip open and not hit the top of the plastic dash.
Attachment 284429Attachment 284430Attachment 284431

I found a 25mm spacer on ebay so I ordered it and we'll see how well it fits.
Attachment 284433

Brad

screen tilt is adjustable, sorry for shitty format


VX7012
USING THE TFT MONITOR
Opening
/
Closing the TFT Monitor
Open the TFT Monitor
Press the OPEN button on the front panel to activate the mechanism that
moves the TFT screen into the viewing position.
Close the TFT Monitor
Press the OPEN button on the front panel to load the TFT screen back into the
compartment.
TFT Monitor Tilt Angle Adjustment
A known characteristic of TFT panels is that the quality of the display varies in
relationship to the viewing angle. To adjust the monitor angle for optimum
viewing:
1.
Press and hold the OPEN button
(> 1 second) on the front panel.
2.
To adjust the tilt of the display panel, turn the rotary volume (
) knob.
3.
To store the new tilt setting, press and hold the OPEN button
again or let the feature time out after 5 seconds.
The rotary volume ( ) knob will
return to normal operation.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

screen tilt is adjustable, sorry for shitty format


VX7012
USING THE TFT MONITOR
Opening
/
Closing the TFT Monitor
Open the TFT Monitor
Press the OPEN button on the front panel to activate the mechanism that
moves the TFT screen into the viewing position.
Close the TFT Monitor
Press the OPEN button on the front panel to load the TFT screen back into the
compartment.
TFT Monitor Tilt Angle Adjustment
A known characteristic of TFT panels is that the quality of the display varies in
relationship to the viewing angle. To adjust the monitor angle for optimum
viewing:
1.
Press and hold the OPEN button
(> 1 second) on the front panel.
2.
To adjust the tilt of the display panel, turn the rotary volume (
) knob.
3.
To store the new tilt setting, press and hold the OPEN button
again or let the feature time out after 5 seconds.
The rotary volume ( ) knob will
return to normal operation.

Super!

Thanks Peter

[PeterH-350LE]

Brad, check out this city Bus, Kreimer just found to be for sale. Those doors..
Perfect for you to shuttle between your house and shop
https://quincy.craigslist.org/rvs/6083572707.html

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

Brad, check out this city Bus, Kreimer just found to be for sale. Those doors..
Perfect for you to shuttle between your house and shop
https://quincy.craigslist.org/rvs/6083572707.html

Hmm, seems to me this "bus" would be more useful to someone in Austin to shuttle his frequent Airstream visitors around...

It would be interesting to see the opening/closing mechanism inside the bus, I'll bet it's a real Rube Goldberg affair

Brad

[bkahler]

Last night I took care of a problem that was present with the Argosy from the day it left the factory back in 74.

Airstream used a .100" aluminum top plate to seal off the top of the firewall out to the bottom edge of the windshield frame. Basically it's a large D shaped aluminum plate. The problem was how Airstream sealed the gaps between the aluminum plate, the coach walls and the firewall. If you look at the two pictures below you'll see the gaps I'm talking about.


Those two corner gaps allowed air flowing in from the front grille to pass through into the under dash area and out into the cockpit. Probably wasn't bad when the weather was pleasant but I would imagine when it was really hot or really cold the passengers would notice the air flow


The patches that I installed aren't pretty but they should be effective. The drivers side was pretty easy. I just used a piece of 1/2" aluminum angle to cover the gap between the wall and the bottom of the top plate and then I smeared some Tempro 635 in the gap at the top. I then smeared the aluminum angle as well just for good measure



The passenger side was more difficult and I had to fabricate a couple of really odd shaped pieces of aluminum to fill the gap. The two pieces are held in place with sheet metal screws and then the gaps were liberally smeared with Tempro.



Both the drivers and passenger side patches are covered by a couple of ABS trim pieces so you won't see the mess that I created

Brad

[mayco]

So what is the black notched piece on top of the aluminum plate that follows the curve of the windshield? It looks like some part of the dash slips into it where it's folded over. Ive never taken a dash apart so looking at your work there is all new to me. Is that where the molded dash top slips into place?

That aluminum cross piece you made, and made that brushed finish, sure looks tops.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by mayco

So what is the black notched piece on top of the aluminum plate that follows the curve of the windshield? It looks like some part of the dash slips into it where it's folded over.

You are correct, it holds the leading edge of the dash top where it curves around the window.

Ive never taken a dash apart so looking at your work there is all new to me. Is that where the molded dash top slips into place?

The 74-76 Argosy dashes are considerably different than the later dashes. Airstream did a much better job of sealing all the gaps and the fit looks better in the later coaches. With my Argosy being one of the earliest it's been pretty obvious where they struggled to get things to fit properly which in reality should be expected considering this was their first foray into the motorhome market.

That aluminum cross piece you made, and made that brushed finish, sure looks tops.

Thanks!

When I removed that cross piece back in 2012 (or there a bouts) I was really concerned about what to do about refinishing it to make it look good. So I fretted for a lot of years because a bad looking dash would make the whole project look like crap! Dane's info on how to do the brushed look made all the difference in the world

Did you decide if you are going to switch to electric steps?

[mayco]

Ive been looking at some parts Brad to convert the existing steps to electric. I don't think I posed that question in my thread very clearly. I'm kicking around the idea of engineering a method to use the existing step and linkage but converting it to electric rather than vacuum. Ive been looking at some inline actuators, limit switches, and wiring necessary to pull it off. Too much time on my hands as Bob said. . But I think it could be done without removing the existing step. We shall see where it goes. The limit switches may be the hardest part. Looks to me like there is a very large selection of inline actuators, different speeds and load capacities and lengths.

I got to tracing my vacuum line yesterday, from the alternator down to the steps. There is a "T" in the line, just a couple feet behind the alternator, that runs a smaller vacuum line over to a canister of some sort. Looks like about a 3" round and 3" tall. Vacuum line in and one coming out that runs over to the throttle cable area where it's folded up and capped off with a screw. I'm wondering if that canister was some type of accumulator associated with the original cruise control????????? Weren't some older cruise controls vacuum operated??? Anyway, its abandoned at this point.

That's about as far as Ive gotten with the idea so far.....Hehehehe...nowhere! Next step is to become very familiar with the existing wiring and get to know EXACTLY what's hot and what's not and when.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by mayco

Ive been looking at some parts Brad to convert the existing steps to electric. I don't think I posed that question in my thread very clearly. I'm kicking around the idea of engineering a method to use the existing step and linkage but converting it to electric rather than vacuum. Ive been looking at some inline actuators, limit switches, and wiring necessary to pull it off. Too much time on my hands as Bob said. . But I think it could be done without removing the existing step. We shall see where it goes. The limit switches may be the hardest part. Looks to me like there is a very large selection of inline actuators, different speeds and load capacities and lengths.

There's something to be said for having time on your hands for projects like this

Limit switches shouldn't be difficult at all. Better yet you should look into prox switches. I'm going to use a prox switch to activate a light on the dash telling me when the steps are retracted. If it was me and I had the time converting steps to electric would be a fun project.

I got to tracing my vacuum line yesterday, from the alternator down to the steps. There is a "T" in the line, just a couple feet behind the alternator, that runs a smaller vacuum line over to a canister of some sort. Looks like about a 3" round and 3" tall. Vacuum line in and one coming out that runs over to the throttle cable area where it's folded up and capped off with a screw. I'm wondering if that canister was some type of accumulator associated with the original cruise control????????? Weren't some older cruise controls vacuum operated??? Anyway, its abandoned at this point.

That ball is a vacuum reservoir and it was used as part of the cruise control. You're correct the early cruise controls used a vacuum servo instead of an electronic servo like you have with the Rostra. What you should do is eliminate the vacuum canister and the associated hoses. Less trouble down the road.

That's about as far as Ive gotten with the idea so far.....Hehehehe...nowhere! Next step is to become very familiar with the existing wiring and get to know EXACTLY what's hot and what's not and when.

The life of a retiree, must be nice

That's good plan to become familiar with your wiring. Someday it will pay dividends!

Brad

[mayco]

And I need to look at switches that reverse polarity, do you know what those are called? I'm going to have to google a "prox switch"....prox as in proximity? As in position? Position of steps?

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by mayco

And I need to look at switches that reverse polarity, do you know what those are called?

I'm not sure what you're getting at for reverse polarity. There are mechanical limit switches and prox switches that are configured as normally open or you get them configured as normally closed.

I'm going to have to google a "prox switch"....prox as in proximity? As in position? Position of steps?

Yes, proximity, they sense an object without actually touching them.

I'm using this prox sensor coupled with a small light in series that will sense when the steps are in the retracted position.

[mayco]

Originally Posted by bkahler

I'm not sure what you're getting at for reverse polarity. There are mechanical limit switches and prox switches that are configured as normally open or you get them configured as normally closed.



Yes, proximity, they sense an object without actually touching them.

I'm using this prox sensor coupled with a small light in series that will sense when the steps are in the retracted position.

Some of these electric linear actuators extend or contract by reversing polarity. From what Ive read, there is some type of switch that will do that. I just don't know the name of the switch and thought you might......BECAUSE YOU SEEM TO KNOW EVERYTHING ELSE!!!! Some of them have built in limit switches, and looks like some have built in prox switches. Ive obviously a lot of reading to do.
But, I'm gonna play with it a bit and see if its feasible.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by mayco

Some of these electric linear actuators extend or contract by reversing polarity. From what Ive read, there is some type of switch that will do that. I just don't know the name of the switch and thought you might......BECAUSE YOU SEEM TO KNOW EVERYTHING ELSE!!!! Some of them have built in limit switches, and looks like some have built in prox switches. Ive obviously a lot of reading to do.
But, I'm gonna play with it a bit and see if its feasible.

Mike,

If I knew everything then ask me why I'm still working for a living. That should be a big enough clue for you

You're looking for a double pole double throw (DPDT) switch.

Brad

[bkahler]

Decided to tackle something simple today

I figure since I'm getting ready to light the engine off again I should complete the air filter setup. It actually came out better than I expected.









It really didn't take all that much time, I think I spent more time just goofing off and just thinking about things. I think I need a vacation

Brad

[bkahler]

One of the things I salvaged from the 345 was the steering column, steering wheel adapter and the Classic style aftermarket steering wheel. The steering column has been installed for a long time now. The steering wheel however had the cover badly torn and some sections where missing so it just sat on the shelf while I looked for options.

Over the past few years I had been keeping watch on ebay for a usable steering wheel but nothing ever really looked appropriate. Fast forward to last fall and in talking with a co-worker it turns out he and his wife had taken up leather-working as a hobby.

I asked him if he would be interested in replacing the cover on the steering wheel and he said "SURE!". Well after many months of being his work que they finally finished the steering. It ended up looking pretty darn good! The color is a nice dark brown which should go good with the rest of the interior.



He did the leather cutting and fitting and she did the stitching. I guess after she was done she told him that if he EVER brought home another steering he better find a different place to sleep

One more problem resolved

Brad

[bkahler]

Almost forgot to mention, last night I finished up the mount for the PCM module and got it installed. Now that the PCM is in place I can start finding places to mount various relays and a new fuse block. And then the wiring fun begins.....



Brad

[Gypsyrose15]

What kind of batteries did you put in your MH? I have a 77 Argosy 28 MH.