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Old 09-08-2016, 08:46 PM   #681
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1977 20' Argosy 20
Arlington , Texas
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Gates Hose P/N's for 1977 model: Probably the same for previous years.

Upper Molded Hose Gates 20868
Lower Flex Hose Gates 26612

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Old 09-09-2016, 10:04 AM   #682
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Well to put it bluntly, the E70735 hose will not work as a lower radiator hose for the vertical radiator rigs. Not even close
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However, I'm fairly certain it will work as the upper hose which is how Autozone advertises it. I couldn't quite get it next to the hose that is installed on Peanut but after looking it over I think it will work. I should be installing my radiator in a few months at which time I'll give it a try. Due to the various curves it may have trouble with some engine configurations.

Not sure why the Winnebago crowd lists this as fitting a Winnebago unless there is something radically different about them compared to the P30 chassis Airstreams and Argosies.

Brad
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Old 09-09-2016, 10:07 AM   #683
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Sorry for the bad steer Brad, but I think it was worth a try.
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Old 09-09-2016, 10:08 AM   #684
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The hoses that I installed on Peanut are 25808 and 26612.
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Old 09-09-2016, 10:33 AM   #685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
Sorry for the bad steer Brad, but I think it was worth a try.
No bit deal. If it works as an upper hose I'll be happy. If not I can return it as long as its never been installed.

It's always worth while checking out leads for replacement parts!
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Old 09-11-2016, 03:02 AM   #686
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I guess there is still the option of the Bronco hose Greg found in this thread?

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...mh-110442.html
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Old 09-12-2016, 10:13 AM   #687
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I guess there is still the option of the Bronco hose Greg found in this thread?

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...mh-110442.html
I'll probably order one of these as well. Once the radiator is installed I can check the fit of both the upper and lower hoses. It would be nice to find molded hoses that work rather than the generic replacements.
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Old 09-12-2016, 10:24 AM   #688
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Not sure if they are available in the US, but in the UK there is quite a selection of companies making performance silicone hoses (for example http://www.viperperformance.co.uk/).

There is a cost to get the initial mandrel made but after that the actual cost of a 'perfect fit' high performance hose isn't too made.
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Old 09-13-2016, 02:03 PM   #689
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I think I looked into something similar several years ago when I was trying to find a replacement lower hose. The place I ended up talking to required too large of a run to make it worth while.

It would be interesting to know if volume requirements would be less in the UK?
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Old 09-27-2016, 05:19 AM   #690
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Just a quick update. I haven't really made any progress on the Argosy for the past couple of months for a variety of reasons and it looks to be another few weeks before I really start into it again. One thing I needed to get done was the final prep of my TR6 so it could be taken to the body and paint shop.

The last thing I had to do was to hot pressure wash the whole tub and chassis to get rid of grease and grime. I'm happy to say the car is now at the body shop having the various small dings and dents removed and is being prepped for paint
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I had hoped to have the drive line on the Argosy completed by Thanksgiving. That still might happen but that also means I would actually have to get busy again! We'll see if that happens

Brad
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:25 PM   #691
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The 6 looks great Brad.

British Racing Green?
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:26 PM   #692
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Forgot to add, the shop that installed my electric fuel pump had a silver 7, convertible, sitting for sale....I was tempted until I read the note on the dash that said 'DON'T USE THE BRAKES!'
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:52 PM   #693
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The 6 looks great Brad.

British Racing Green?
Damson, which is the original color. The PO painted it gray and regretted it afterwards. I really like the Damson and decided to go through the effort to put it back to the original color.
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:54 PM   #694
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Forgot to add, the shop that installed my electric fuel pump had a silver 7, convertible, sitting for sale....I was tempted until I read the note on the dash that said 'DON'T USE THE BRAKES!'
Brakes are easy and cheap to fix There is a large contingent of Triumph owners in that part of the country as well.
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Old 10-23-2016, 11:39 AM   #695
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I finally took some time this weekend to tackle a task that I've been dreading for months now Removing the differential and leaf springs so I can paint the rear third of the chassis and replace the leaf springs with new ones.

Overall the removal process went surprisingly well. First thing I did was set up a support structure under the frame near the front shackle holders. That got the wheels off the ground so I could remove them. With the wheels off I set a furniture dolly under the diff and use it to cradle the differential while I used a cutting torch to clip the top leaf near each of the shackle bolts.
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With the diff out front under the chassis I can hot pressure wash it, paint it and replace the pinion seal.
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The only hitch during the whole process was the right rear shackle bolt. It was rusted solid to the steel sleeve inside the rubber bushing.
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I tried using a sawazll but the steel bushing is so hard it just dulled the blades in no time. I had to resort to using a cutting torch and just basically started burning and cutting until I was able to pull the pieces out. I did have to use the fire extinguisher once because the rubber wouldn't stop burning. Last thing I wanted to do is burn up my Argosy and the shop

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Brad
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Old 10-23-2016, 05:01 PM   #696
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Good work,
I wouldn't have enjoyed that job either, you'll feel relieved when it's done.
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Old 10-23-2016, 05:22 PM   #697
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Quote:
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Forgot to add, the shop that installed my electric fuel pump had a silver 7, convertible, sitting for sale....I was tempted until I read the note on the dash that said 'DON'T USE THE BRAKES!'
A doctor on SSI when I was growing up had a 7 and eventually traded it for the 8. The 8 was a very nice car...........when it worked.

For some reason I've always been partial to the 4/5; that and Jaguars.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 10-23-2016, 07:15 PM   #698
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Good work,
I wouldn't have enjoyed that job either, you'll feel relieved when it's done.
Yeah, there are some jobs that I just dread tackling and that was one of them
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Old 10-29-2016, 06:19 AM   #699
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Here's another issue I noticed a long time ago but avoided looking at closer for fear of what I might find.

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This is the hitch frame assembly that is welded to the bottom of the truck chassis. By design it's actually a fairly stout frame. Unfortunately the way Airstream made the frame they left the ends of the tubes open which allowed road debris to get packed into the exposed insides of the tubes. 42 years of having that crap packed inside the tubing allowed it to rust away from the inside

Simple welded on end caps would have prevented this mess. As it is I'll have to cut the whole assembly off, fabricate a new one and weld it back in place.

Oh well, I guess it gives me something to do for the next few weeks


Brad
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Old 10-29-2016, 04:20 PM   #700
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Well the worst of the rusted hitch frame removal is done. Three+ hours with a cutoff wheel on a grinder and an oxy/acetylene cutting torch did the job. I've still got several hours of cleanup to do with the cutoff wheel and grinder but with luck I won't have to use the torch again.
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Something I hadn't noticed before is the fact that the GM chassis has been extended 10" by adding a U channel to the end of the existing channel. Now I need to look at Peanut to see if he has the same extension
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