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Old 01-18-2013, 08:11 PM   #57
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When I changed my A/C I bought a Carrier low profile. It has been a few years so I have forgotten many of the details. There was somebody here on the forums who had made the swap so I followed his instructions. Basically the old unit I believe was a Coleman, used a base/drip pan the size of the unit with about a 1" vertical lip around the edge. The Carrier didn't use a pan, just a gasket on the roof. The instruction was to cut most of the pan away just leaving enough to fit the new gasket. Climbing on the roof I grabbed my tin snips prepared to trim the pan. I was surprised to find the pan was plastic. Made the trimming very easy.

I also built a couple of wood fillers similar to what Fred did, set the unit on top and held up the inside cover and installed and tightened the four bolts. There was a drain hose that I just attached to the Carrier. It was very simple and using the old pan eliminated trying to fit the flat A/C to the curved roof.
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:55 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by Smartstream View Post
When I changed my A/C I bought a Carrier low profile. It has been a few years so I have forgotten many of the details. There was somebody here on the forums who had made the swap so I followed his instructions. Basically the old unit I believe was a Coleman, used a base/drip pan the size of the unit with about a 1" vertical lip around the edge.
That's the same drip pan that was on the 345 and is currently on the 310 and was on the Argosy. This morning I pulled the air conditioner from the roof and found that the drip pan was in horrible condition. It's busted in a variety of places and it looks like along the front and part of one side they used Liquid Nails to hold it in place That was a nightmare to get off.

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I'm a little confused as to why they put the foam seal on the bottom side of the pan instead of the top side. The 345 & 310 had the seal on top. The whole installation on the Argosy just seemed to be botched.

I will however give them style points because they did use Duct Tape to help seal it

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Quote:
The Carrier didn't use a pan, just a gasket on the roof. The instruction was to cut most of the pan away just leaving enough to fit the new gasket. Climbing on the roof I grabbed my tin snips prepared to trim the pan. I was surprised to find the pan was plastic. Made the trimming very easy.
I'm not sure what was gained by using part of the drip pan. If the Carrier didn't have a condensate drain connection I don't see the benefit of cutting out part of the old pan

I bought a DuoTherm Brisk Air 13.5k air conditioner and it's my understanding all I should have to do is set the gasket in place and then set the air conditioner down on top and bolt in place from inside. The condensate just runs off the roof. Am I missing something?

Quote:
I also built a couple of wood fillers similar to what Fred did, set the unit on top and held up the inside cover and installed and tightened the four bolts. There was a drain hose that I just attached to the Carrier. It was very simple and using the old pan eliminated trying to fit the flat A/C to the curved roof.
Like I said above I'm confused as to why you needed the drip pan for the Carrier.

I'm not sure whether I'm going to make a wood frame or use parts of the ribs I salvaged from the 345. I've got a few days to worry about that problem.

Brad
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:16 PM   #59
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In case some of you were wondering how I got the air conditioner off the roof by myself

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Brad
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:27 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post

I bought a DuoTherm Brisk Air 13.5k air conditioner and it's my understanding all I should have to do is set the gasket in place and then set the air conditioner down on top and bolt in place from inside. The condensate just runs off the roof. Am I missing something?

Brad
That's it! That was my solution. It just drips down the side of the coach like rain and the morning dew. Just don't forget the internal framing enhancements!

In some cases, the drain pans get clogged (mold, mildew, bees, etc.) and the condensation runs down the side anyways.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:44 PM   #61
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That's it! That was my solution. It just drips down the side of the coach like rain and the morning dew. Just don't forget the internal framing enhancements!
Definitely won't! I'm starting to think I might make the frame work out of wood like you and Dan did only I'll create the appropriate curves on the bandsaw. I'm hoping the Duo-Therm shows up this week so I can install it next weekend. I'm tired of continually removing things form the Argosy. It would make me feel a lot better to actually install something for a change

Quote:
In some cases, the drain pans get clogged (mold, mildew, bees, etc.) and the condensation runs down the side anyways.
Our 310 seldom drains through the Airstream supplied drain tube, mainly because the pans are cracked in places so it unless the rig is perfectly level the condensate flows to the lowest point.

I just got done looking at all the pictures on your blog from the link you sent. I do like the white on top rather than black. I think it blends in better. Also I noticed that when you removed the center ceiling strip it looks like yours is held in place differently than my Argosy and the 345. I'll have to look closer tomorrow to be sure.

I've been looking at the same antenna that you installed. Does it function well and are you happy with it?

Brad
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:50 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
That's the same drip pan that was on the 345 and is currently on the 310 and was on the Argosy. This morning I pulled the air conditioner from the roof and found that the drip pan was in horrible condition. It's busted in a variety of places and it looks like along the front and part of one side they used Liquid Nails to hold it in place That was a nightmare to get off.

Attachment 177044

I'm a little confused as to why they put the foam seal on the bottom side of the pan instead of the top side. The 345 & 310 had the seal on top. The whole installation on the Argosy just seemed to be botched.

I will however give them style points because they did use Duct Tape to help seal it

Attachment 177050



I'm not sure what was gained by using part of the drip pan. If the Carrier didn't have a condensate drain connection I don't see the benefit of cutting out part of the old pan

I bought a DuoTherm Brisk Air 13.5k air conditioner and it's my understanding all I should have to do is set the gasket in place and then set the air conditioner down on top and bolt in place from inside. The condensate just runs off the roof. Am I missing something?



Like I said above I'm confused as to why you needed the drip pan for the Carrier.

I'm not sure whether I'm going to make a wood frame or use parts of the ribs I salvaged from the 345. I've got a few days to worry about that problem.

Brad
Brad it sounds like somebody had already replaced your A/C at some time. The unit I removed had no foam gasket, it was caulked directly to the coach roof. By taking the cover off and removing the inside vent/switch panel, the guts, (compressor, evaporator, condenser and fans) lifted off leaving the drip pan. The pan had caulking/sealant built up to mate the curved roof to the flat pan. The Carrier had a gasket that seemed designed for a flat roof so that using the old part of the pan to match the new gasket was the easy way to go. I guess the drip pan was actually the bottom of the old unit so I just took the whole thing apart and cut away the base leaving the glued down center part and set the new unit on top.

If I remember correctly the drain hose connected to the part of the pan that I cut off so it was easy to connect the hose to the Carrier which does have a condensate drain.

I just made wood filler blocks to fit cross-ways at the front and rear of the opening. The opening was just far enough away from the ribs that it was squeezing the inner and outer shell together as I tightened the mounting bolts. It didn't seem to load the sides, only the front and back.

Like I said somebody had recently installed the same unit on a trailer and had a nice write up with pictures and he was happy with the results so I just followed his instructions
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:59 PM   #63
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Brad it sounds like somebody had already replaced your A/C at some time. The unit I removed had no foam gasket, it was caulked directly to the coach roof. By taking the cover off and removing the inside vent/switch panel, the guts, (compressor, evaporator, condenser and fans) lifted off leaving the drip pan. The pan had caulking/sealant built up to mate the curved roof to the flat pan. The Carrier had a gasket that seemed designed for a flat roof so that using the old part of the pan to match the new gasket was the easy way to go. I guess the drip pan was actually the bottom of the old unit so I just took the whole thing apart and cut away the base leaving the glued down center part and set the new unit on top.

If I remember correctly the drain hose connected to the part of the pan that I cut off so it was easy to connect the hose to the Carrier which does have a condensate drain.

I just made wood filler blocks to fit cross-ways at the front and rear of the opening. The opening was just far enough away from the ribs that it was squeezing the inner and outer shell together as I tightened the mounting bolts. It didn't seem to load the sides, only the front and back.

Like I said somebody had recently installed the same unit on a trailer and had a nice write up with pictures and he was happy with the results so I just followed his instructions
Ok, the Carrier having a condensate drain makes sense. I'm going the cheaper route and letting it run off the side of the coach

I looked closer at the ribs on the Argosy and realized they are spaced farther apart than they were on the 345. Not sure if that's because the 345 was a lot longer and needed more stiffness or if it's because the Argosy was the "cheaper" line. I believe there are only four ribs from the front to the back. The area between the air conditioner and the rear vent is about 3-1/2 to 4' and no ribs in that area. Makes it challenging to try and stay off that section while working on the roof.

Thanks for the info!

Brad
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Old 01-20-2013, 06:43 AM   #64
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I've been looking at the same antenna that you installed. Does it function well and are you happy with it?

Brad
Here is a forums thread on the Jack Antenna.

I have not used it much, really only for testing which went well.
Due to space considerations, I bought a USB TV tuner and we plan on using a laptop for a TV. I also run the PC audio to the stereo Aux-In to use the coach sound system. We used the USB tuner several times with some success. It allows you to use the laptop as a DVR. The start-up is much longer with the laptop. In an Argosy 20, everything has to have a place and a purpose! This is not a diesel pusher with a garage bay underneath to bring your kitchen sink along!
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:13 AM   #65
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.......This is not a diesel pusher with a garage bay underneath to bring your kitchen sink along!
You would think a diesel pusher would have enough room in the kitchen for the kitchen sink. Than again my shower isn't in the bathroom its in the closet and with airstream's lay out I am happy it isn't out back!
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Old 01-20-2013, 02:25 PM   #66
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Thank you for such an inspiring thread!

Thank you, bkahler, for such an inspiring post. I purchased my '75 20' ft Argosy Moho several years ago for my mother. The plan was to gut and redo for her use. After having gutted and rebuilt a 1950 33' ft Spartan Mansion, which is now my office, I felt pretty confident with the Argosy. Several years later and now with a toddler in tow, the Argosy sits pretty much gutted and really wanting to be finished. My mother is now longer interested, so I would like to redo it and use it as another mobile office (pediatric therapist) for outings and group sessions. My husband is less than inclined (rather more focused on restoring his air-cooled VW's...OK still cool, but not an airstream!) and has been nagging me sell it.
But, we just bought a compressor to run air tools and work on our collection (1973 VW Thing, 1980 Eriba Familia, 1965 Airstream Overlander, and, of course, my Argy!). So, I hold out hope that we can start working on this little gem (a lot of work...engine may need rebuild or replacement, drive train I don't even know, some outriggers are rusted through, interior is totally gutted, dash is spaghetti, driving cabin floor pans have been partially replaced, etc) maybe this summer. Looking at its current state... it's hard to keep the faith! Keep the posts coming...I am living vicariously through you!
Kathleen
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Old 01-20-2013, 06:29 PM   #67
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Kathleen, nice to hear from you again!

Sorry to hear progress isn't as fast as you would like on the Argosy. Rebuilding one can be a real daunting task so don't give up.

I almost gave up on this one and tried to sell it this summer but then changed my mind. A forum member was interested but I'm glad he found a different one. Mine turned out to be in worse condition that I initially thought. I don't think it has as much rust as yours but it has enough issues that I would have felt bad selling it with so many hidden problems that I didn't know about.

Over the years I've found that if you start tackling the little things eventually it all gets finished. I have two lists for the Argosy, one lists the things that need to be done such as replace furnace, repair rear brakes, seal windows, etc. The second list is a list of tasks that I can do "right now" with no waiting. An item can't go on the list unless it is something that can be worked on immediately. For example right now on my Argosy I can clean the sealant above the right side bedroom window. Another item is I can remove the steering wheel so I can get access to the hacked up steering column. At the moment the list probably has 30 or 40 items on it that I could do if I walked out to the Argosy wanting to work on something. As these little tasks get done the bigger tasks start turning into smaller tasks that eventually end up on the second list. Oddly enough the second list has items added and crossed off constantly. It makes feel like I'm actually getting something done

It might seem ridiculous or over kill but it works for me. I keep my notebook handy and if something comes to mind that I can add to the list I do it. Surprisingly it allows me to plan tasks ahead of time so when I do have time to work on something I'm not sitting there trying to figure out what I should do next.

So, start making your lists and spend a little bit of time here and there and eventually it will get done.

Brad
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:22 PM   #68
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Here is a forums thread on the Jack Antenna.

I have not used it much, really only for testing which went well.
Due to space considerations, I bought a USB TV tuner and we plan on using a laptop for a TV. I also run the PC audio to the stereo Aux-In to use the coach sound system. We used the USB tuner several times with some success. It allows you to use the laptop as a DVR.
Fred, when you say "some success" are you referring to the USB tuner or did you have issues with the signal quality from the antenna?

Quote:
The start-up is much longer with the laptop. In an Argosy 20, everything has to have a place and a purpose! This is not a diesel pusher with a garage bay underneath to bring your kitchen sink along!
As small as the 20' is I'm still amazed at how much storage space Airstream managed to pack into the little guy. Seems like I'm always finding a new storage location when I go inside the coach.

Airstream even managed to pack a kitchen sink into mine

Brad
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:26 PM   #69
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It seems like I'm always finding something new that needs to be fixed or replaced. The other day while removing the left side cockpit wall I noticed that the steering column had been hacked up.

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Why would someone need to tear the steering column up like this

The only good news is I have a complete spare steering column (two actually) that I can use for parts. It's just annoying that the work list continues to grow no matter how much effort I put into fixing things.

Oh well, at least it keeps me out of trouble

Brad
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:49 PM   #70
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Since I now have gauges coming I decided I should come up with a possible dash layout. The cardboard cutout is the same pattern that I will be cutting the aluminum plate to.

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The two holes at the top corners will be the dash vents similar to this one. The 2" gauges along the bottom might be spaced out a little more. I'm planning on making a temporary dash face out of 1/8" plywood so that should give me a good idea as to whether I like the arrangement or not.

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I'm planning on spaces for eight 2" gauges. So far I'm thinking of installing the following:

Speedometer
Tachometer
Fuel
Water Temp
Oil Temp
Transmission Temp
Voltage
Oil Pressure
Vacuum
Air Suspension (if I install an air suspension system)

I'll have to add a couple of lights, high beam and oil and I think there is a brake warning light as well. I'm sure I'll come up with a few other items that will be added by the time I get done

Brad
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