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Old 07-03-2016, 03:16 PM   #659
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What the heck, while I was hot and sweaty I decided to go ahead and lift the transmission into place
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Still need to drill 8 new mounting holes for the cross member and torque a few bolts here and there but at least the hardest part is over.
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Old 07-03-2016, 04:21 PM   #660
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just impressive..., Brad!! Without the pictures, I would not believe that you did all of this in a day and some. And i am talking about chasing the donkey down
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Old 07-03-2016, 05:45 PM   #661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
just impressive..., Brad!! Without the pictures, I would not believe that you did all of this in a day and some. And i am talking about chasing the donkey down
Tommy (the donkey) was definitely the challenge of the day

If you try to lead him by the halter he digs in and he won't budge so I bsically had to chase him from the front of the property to the back to get him back where he belonged. Not a great way to start the day

After that the rest was easy!
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Old 07-04-2016, 08:29 AM   #662
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You used the term "waiting" Brad. Its not waiting , it's persistence and you seem to have plenty to spare. Keep it up! Your thread inspires me to stick with it.
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Old 07-04-2016, 11:34 AM   #663
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You used the term "waiting" Brad. Its not waiting , it's persistence and you seem to have plenty to spare. Keep it up! Your thread inspires me to stick with it.
Persistence or is it desperation?! I'm not sure which but one way or the other I need to get it done

Thanks for the kind words!

Brad
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Old 07-07-2016, 06:10 AM   #664
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One of my worries after switching to the TBI system was just how much doghouse cover clearance I would have between the air horn and the cover. My prior calculations said I would have between 1/2" & 3/4" clearance. It turns out that I have over an 1" of clearance to the top of the air horn stud. The stud is longer than it needs to be so once I cut it down and switch to the lower profile nut that I will be using I'll have even more clearance. One less thing to worry about
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Another worry I had was the power steering hose. The original style of hose is no longer available and the substitute really wasn't the right shape. However a little tweaking with a tubing bender and I was able to bend the tubes at each end of the hose enough to make it work. Another worry eliminated
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And finally last night I had a friend stop by to help me lift the dash air system evaporator box into place. The box is somewhat on the heavy side and it needed to be held in place and then the screws installed from inside the coach.
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It took a few attempts but finally the top row of screws were in place. Unfortunately the alignment is horrible. The gaps below were covered up at the factory with black seam sealant so they weren't visible. With all of the seam sealer removed it's pretty obvious the factory did a horrible job of lining things up.
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I can't really make any corrections to cover up the gaps because the air plenum on top of the evaporator box and the air diverter box all have to line up with various holes and openings in the firewall. So I guess I'll have to do what the factory did which is plug the holes with whatever seems appropriate

The good news is I should be able to make some decent progress for a while because I have a lot of parts prepped ready to install


Brad
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Old 07-13-2016, 06:25 AM   #665
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Over the past few years I had been slowly reconditioning the evaporator/heater box for my Argosy that hangs on the firewall. Inside the box are two blower motors, the heater core and the evaporator core. There is also a temperature switch that has a probe that plugs into the evaporator core. For the longest time I was thinking this switch controlled the vent temperature.


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Well, after thinking about it lately I've come to the conclusion that this temperature switch is actually a safety cutoff for the compressor and that's all it's for. If the evaporator core gets too cold the switch will disengage the compressor clutch. So, if this temperature switch is a safety switch then how do I control the temperature coming out of the vents? I'm beginning to think the original configuration used the heater core to mix with the air blowing through the evaporator to control the vent temperature.

Previously I had planned on shutting off the hot coolant to the heater core when the heater wasn't needed and am installing an H valve in the coolant lines to provide a finer control for the amount of coolant passing through the heater core. The H valve also lets you stop all flow through the heater core from the dash.

From the looks of things it would appear I need to ensure I can always allow hot coolant into the heater core so I can provide the ability to control the dash vent temperature.

When I dismantled everything in the dash and firewall I found no other means of controlling the vent temperature except for the temperature slider bar on heater/ac dash control panel. I realize that most of the time I will likely want the vent temperature to be as cold as possible but I'm sure there will be times when the temperature will need to be dialed back.

So the question is, am I right in that the dash temperature slide control is what is used to control the vent temperature in both cooling and heating modes?


Brad
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Old 07-15-2016, 11:05 AM   #666
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Brad, and others...
Found this resource for a good estimate of oil and refrigerant capacities...

http://www.techchoiceparts.com/refri...et-light-truck
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Old 07-18-2016, 07:46 AM   #667
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Brad, and others...
Found this resource for a good estimate of oil and refrigerant capacities...

http://www.techchoiceparts.com/refri...et-light-truck
Steve, thanks for the info. I'll see if I can find something appropriate.
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Old 07-18-2016, 07:50 AM   #668
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Just a minor update for the weekend. Friday while waiting for Martin to arrive I installed the AC compressor. I opted to go with a Sanden unit that was a direct bolt in replacement for the one used in a 1986 345. The only difference is it's an R134a unit instead of R12.
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Now that the engine and transmission are installed a whole list of new tasks has opened up. There won't be any spare time for me for quite a while now!
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Old 07-18-2016, 10:55 AM   #669
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Do you still have the compressor bracket that came with the 1986 and did it look like the one in the picture? If you do would you be willing to sell it? It is hard to see the bracket since the pictures are from the back of the compressor. One of my ears fastening the compressor has partially broken off.
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Old 07-18-2016, 12:26 PM   #670
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Gunter,

The 1986 345 used a mixed belt system, part v-belt and part ribbed belt. What I have is from the 86 345 that looks similar to what you have but I think there will be slight differences. The hole patterns will probably be the same but there are likely differences in how the mount actually fits.

I do know the 86 mount would not work on my 345 unless I wanted to make spacers to fill in gaps between the mount and the block, especially on the two lower/inner most mounting holes.

I bought the mount I'm currently using from a salvage place in Arizona but I don't know what brand motorhome is was mounted on.

Does your engine have the mixed belt system?
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Old 07-18-2016, 02:26 PM   #671
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I believe I have 3 separate V belts, I removed the smoke pump so that belt was changed to a smaller circumference belt.
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Old 07-18-2016, 02:34 PM   #672
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Quote:
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I believe I have 3 separate V belts, I removed the smoke pump so that belt was changed to a smaller circumference belt.
Same as my old 310 although the smog pump was still installed.

One thing to look at on your mount. The bolt that was installed by GM is 3/8" diameter. The mounting ear holes on the compressor are 10 mm. The mounting holes on the bracket are 10 mm. I started to mount my compressor and noticed quite a bit of slop. I ended up going to Fastenal and bought a 10 mm by 140 mm socket head cap screw. The 10 mm bolt took care of the slop in the mounting bracket.
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