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Old 04-26-2016, 06:02 AM   #575
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Thanks Peter

When there's something I don't want to do I generally procrastinate but at some point it HAS to get done so I finally bit the bullet and crawled under there. The back third of the chassis should be a lot easier than the front two thirds!

I have to throw a quick coat of paint on the steering knuckles and the coil springs and once that's done all of the suspension components will be ready for assembly. Parts should be painted this week so in the next week or so it ought to be sitting on it's front wheels.

It's kinda nice having Peanut around for a visual reference which should make thing easier to piece back together
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Old 04-30-2016, 09:27 AM   #576
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I finished painting the front steering knuckles this morning so I now have everything prepped and painted ready to be installed. I'm taking Monday off and plan to spend as much time as I can getting the front suspension reassembled.

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Even better is once I start assembling I'll have more room in my shop as I have painted parts scattered all over the place!
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:13 PM   #577
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Since its been raining out off and on all day i decided to install the front suspension on my Argosy instead of laying in the rain to work on Peanut

First step was to install the saddle and its braces.
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Next was the control arms.
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And finally the springs. I used the John Warden method of putting the air bags inside the springs before installing the springs. Much easier that way!
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Next up is the rotors, front brakes and shocks.
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:50 PM   #578
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Looking good Brad, does this signify the start of reconstruction???
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:58 PM   #579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
Looking good Brad, does this signify the start of reconstruction???
"Re-start of reconstruction" might be a more appropriate term! There were times in the past where I thought I was in the moving forward phase but always ended up having to take more stuff out. Considering under the floor is pretty much a bare chassis from the differential forward there isn't anything else that could have been removed!

The plan is to get it back on it's front wheels and then put the back of the frame on jack stands so I can remove the differential and rear springs for replacement with new.

It was a nice feeling today to be able to see concrete progress for a change. I was starting to get to many new or newly painted part piled up all over the place!
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:14 AM   #580
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Looks like its coming along nicely! Can't wait to see her all finished!!!

Sam
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Old 05-02-2016, 05:06 PM   #581
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Looks like its coming along nicely! Can't wait to see her all finished!!!

Sam
I believe the proper phrase would be "Slow but sure..."

Needless to say I can't wait either!


Brad
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Old 05-03-2016, 01:09 PM   #582
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Two steps forward, one step back

Monday afternoon I tried installing the right front wheel hub. The hub slipped on to the spindle just fine but when I went to thread the spindle nut on it got tighter the farther on the shaft it went. Backed it off and tried the other nut with the same result. Close inspection doesn't show any obvious thread damage but there must be something or I wouldn't be having trouble with the nuts threading onto the shaft.

So, I've ordered replacement nuts from Rockauto and found a reverse thread chasing tool that hopefully can help restore the spindle threads.

After all the work I just did getting the front suspension installed this is not something I really want to be dealing with. I'll let you know how the thread chasing tool works out.


Brad
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:29 PM   #583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Two steps forward, one step back

Monday afternoon I tried installing the right front wheel hub. The hub slipped on to the spindle just fine but when I went to thread the spindle nut on it got tighter the farther on the shaft it went. Backed it off and tried the other nut with the same result. Close inspection doesn't show any obvious thread damage but there must be something or I wouldn't be having trouble with the nuts threading onto the shaft.

So, I've ordered replacement nuts from Rockauto and found a reverse thread chasing tool that hopefully can help restore the spindle threads.

After all the work I just did getting the front suspension installed this is not something I really want to be dealing with. I'll let you know how the thread chasing tool works out.


Brad
I like asking real stupid questions:
Of course you had the bearings in the hub?
"Ducking" for flying objects coming at me
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:55 PM   #584
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I like asking real stupid questions:
Of course you had the bearings in the hub?
"Ducking" for flying objects coming at me
I'm to tired to throw anything right now

Yep the bearings are in the hub, looking closer at the threads with a magnifying glass it appears there is a burr coming out of one of the cotter pin holes.

I vaguely remember when I took it apart the nut seemed to be difficult to turn by hand. That'll teach me to pay closer attention when I notice something odd. It doesn't help that there's times when there are long gaps from when I take something apart to when I put it back together.
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Old 05-04-2016, 05:02 AM   #585
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I'm to tired to throw anything right now

Yep the bearings are in the hub, looking closer at the threads with a magnifying glass it appears there is a burr coming out of one of the cotter pin holes.

I vaguely remember when I took it apart the nut seemed to be difficult to turn by hand. That'll teach me to pay closer attention when I notice something odd. It doesn't help that there's times when there are long gaps from when I take something apart to when I put it back together.
I am sure you understood, why I was asking that stupid question? If you would only have the oil seal and the inner bearing in place to hold the hub, the nut would go further than it ever needs to if the outer bearing would be in place.
Even after you clean the burr, I would still use a torque wrench for the recommended setting of the hub, before backing it back out to the next cotter pin hole. I always have to make sure to remember to coat the oil seal lip with some bearing grease.
What makes it so exciting to get older is black holes of short term memory. I sometimes have to make a checklist so I will not have to tear it all apart just to make sure, I did not forget that screw on the ground next to me..
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Old 05-04-2016, 07:29 AM   #586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
I am sure you understood, why I was asking that stupid question?
Yep, sure did

Quote:
If you would only have the oil seal and the inner bearing in place to hold the hub, the nut would go further than it ever needs to if the outer bearing would be in place.
The nut never makes it past the holes for cotter pins. The nut starts getting difficult to turn when the nut reaches the holes.

Quote:
Even after you clean the burr, I would still use a torque wrench for the recommended setting of the hub, before backing it back out to the next cotter pin hole. I always have to make sure to remember to coat the oil seal lip with some bearing grease.
Yep, I always use the torque as described in the manual, which in 1974 was 12 ft lbs.

Quote:
What makes it so exciting to get older is black holes of short term memory. I sometimes have to make a checklist so I will not have to tear it all apart just to make sure, I did not forget that screw on the ground next to me..
I've reached a point where I have lists to keep track of lists
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Old 05-04-2016, 06:46 PM   #587
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For the last couple of weeks I've been trying to remove the rear bumper. It was held on by four flat head sheet metal screws. I would never mount a bumper with four 1/4" sheet metal screws but apparently it was considered good enough back when it was built.

Once I got the bumper off this is what it was hiding
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Looks like I'm going to have to do some reconstructive surgery on those 2"x4" tubes. When everything was new the bumper may have slid onto those tubes but the NOS replacement bumper that I have (thanks Martin!) would have to be pounded on to get it to fit. I think I'll rework how the bumper gets mounted so bolts can be used which would allow for easier removal in the future.


The filler panels between the bumper and the shell are totally different from the 77 and later Argosies. My back quarters are made of ABS and are rounded where the later coaches use the squared off quarters. Fortunately my rear quarters appear to be in good shape.
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The tops of the ABS fillers are warped and cracked so what I might do is cut them tops off leaving a 2" or so strip along the body and then fabricate some 1/8" aluminum panels to lay on top of the ABS to fill the gap between the body and the bumper.
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Old 05-04-2016, 07:29 PM   #588
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Bred those 1/4" bolts might seem anemic but maybe not so much compared to the aluminum bumper itself. The PO put a good bend in mine and the mounting screws held fine. I changed mine to stainless machine screws with lots of never seize.
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