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Old 01-29-2016, 09:00 PM   #491
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Thank you for the advice Brad, that makes sense. I have a trickle charger on board and use it to occasionally top off the chassis battery. I guess I was wanting to be lazy and have a "set it and forget it" type situation. I understand what youre saying though.

Mike
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Old 01-30-2016, 05:09 AM   #492
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Just to share an alternate approach; we can charge to house batteries from the Magnum (via generator or shore power), or from the Zamp, or from a battery tender. So have lots of options to keep the house batteries charged. If not using for a period of time we use the tender. But having the battery tender connection really makes sense if you get a dual/multi-channel tender because then you can have one channel on the house batteries and one to the chassis battery, on separate trickle charges.
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Old 01-30-2016, 12:22 PM   #493
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I spent 5 hours under the Argosy this morning removing the old holding tank support frames and various other odds and ends. Also started to remove the transmission mount and realized again just how difficult Airstream made these things to work on.

I'm not a fan of using a cutting torch underneath a vehicle but in my case the fuel tanks have been removed so I'm not quite as concerned. Still no fun using a torch and a grinder while laying on your back

I've got maybe another hour of cleanup yet with a grinder and then I can actually get to the real task which is to remove and relocate the transmission mount.

My rough calculations point to moving the mount rearward about 2-7/8". There are only two problems with doing so. The first is removing the four bolts that bolt the top part of the mount to the frame rail. You can't push the bolts up out of the way because the floor is to close to the frame rail so there is no place for the bolt to go.

The second is once I get the old bolts out I need to drill four new holes in the top of the frame rail once I move the mount rearward to it's new position. I've got an idea or two on how to do that but no matter what I do it's going to be a pain in the back side

The other aggravating issue is once I get the bolts removed from the mount you can't actually remove the mount from the chassis. The way GM constructed the chassis the mount can't be physically removed. You can slide it forward and back with no problem you just can't remove it from the chassis. When I dismantled the 345 I was able to remove the mount because I cut the chassis into pieces. I don't really want to take that approach with my Argosy!

Oh well, I didn't have anything else planned for today

Brad
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Old 01-30-2016, 03:14 PM   #494
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Here's two of the problem bolts. You can just see the bolt heads in the first picture. The bolts are about 1" long and there is no room to push them up and out of the way. What makes it even harder is right above the bolt heads is a 1"x2" tube that is part of the floor structure.
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I can think of three possible options to get the bolts out. One is to use a sawzall with a really long metal cutting blade to try and slice the heads of the bolts off.

The second is to use a torch and cut the heads off. I would have to slide a piece of sheet metal between the bolt head and the aluminum skin to keep from melting the aluminum.

The last option is to literally cut the transmission mount into three or more pieces. That is the worst option by far and I'll have to think long and hard before I do that. The good news is I have a complete intact mount from the 345 that I can use should I have to cut the original into pieces

My preference is the sawzall but if that doesn't work then I'm pretty sure torching the bolt heads off will.

Here's another shot of the transmission mount.
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Old 01-30-2016, 03:35 PM   #495
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There must be a reason why you can't unbolt and unrivet the lower portion of trans mount and then drop it down enough to get it away from the bolt and just leave the bolts hanging?
If that doesn't work, I have another suggestion for you:
Great a fence post and snap those bolts with a wrench on top?
Grade 8?
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Old 01-30-2016, 04:55 PM   #496
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Peter, that's certainly a fourth option. The main issue I have with rivets especially frame rivets is they are a real bear to remove. A little while ago I was practicing on the 345 mount that I have by trying to remove those rivets. A combination of drilling through the rivets, cutting the heads off and a huge amount of beating with a hammer and punch got three rivets out. Less hammering would have been necessary if I had drilled larger holes.

I'll give it a try later tomorrow or Monday evening. Tomorrow morning I am going to start installing new windows at my friends house that I've working on the last few months.
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Old 01-30-2016, 05:04 PM   #497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Peter, that's certainly a fourth option. The main issue I have with rivets especially frame rivets is they are a real bear to remove. A little while ago I was practicing on the 345 mount that I have by trying to remove those rivets. A combination of drilling through the rivets, cutting the heads off and a huge amount of beating with a hammer and punch got three rivets out. Less hammering would have been necessary if I had drilled larger holes.

I'll give it a try later tomorrow or Monday evening. Tomorrow morning I am going to start installing new windows at my friends house that I've working on the last few months.
My experience has been that they are not like grade 8 bolts, due to the fact that a rivet has to expand to set.
I would rather drill a Frame rivet out than messing with those grade 8 bolts. Look at the positive side of this route. You will be able to disassemble the Trans frame much easier if needed in the future, once you replace the rivets with bolts.
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Old 01-30-2016, 05:58 PM   #498
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It's amazing how well rivets hold things together. Their expansion is what makes them so difficult to remove. I don't know that I've ever had to try and drill through grade eight bolts. Not something I would look forward to either

Drilling out the rivets and lowering the top piece down is probably the best approach. To be honest I can see no other way that the transmission could be removed from the chassis if the engine is still in place. If you can't slide the cross member back you can't get the transmission out.

If Martin does have to pull his transmission to fix the shifting issue then he might have to try this method as well.
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Old 02-01-2016, 07:55 PM   #499
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Spent about an hour this evening on the transmission mount and was able to remove three rivets. That leaves three more to go. If the transmission was still installed this job would be a lot harder especially for the two rivets on the front side.

As it is once the rivets are removed the top part of the mount will likely still not be able to be freed from the chassis. But at least I'll be able to relocate it for the 4L80e installation.

I still haven't decided the best approach to drilling new holes on the frame rails. I figure that task will likely have to wait until the transmission is re-installed. Until the transmission is in place I can't locate the holes anyway
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Old 02-02-2016, 03:28 PM   #500
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Wish we lived there, i could take the moho to the end of the driveway once a month and call it a camping trip!


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Old 02-03-2016, 07:26 AM   #501
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Wish we lived there, i could take the moho to the end of the driveway once a month and call it a camping trip!
Camping AND fishing trip
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Old 02-03-2016, 06:08 PM   #502
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Spent about an hour this evening removing the last three rivets from the transmission mount. Once the rivets were out it was ridiculously easy to remove each of the pieces. I was concerned that the upper section which was one piece would not be able to be removed due to it's length. After about 15 seconds of fiddling around it came right out! Peter, thanks for the rivet suggestion!

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Next up on the list is to dismantled the front suspension so I can figure out what's going on with the ball joints. In a previous post I mentioned that the studs don't seem to protrude far enough to engage the nuts fully. Not sure why as the parts I purchased are supposed to be the right part numbers.

Once the front suspension is remove it will be time to start prepping the frame for painting. That will be a dirty grungy job that I'm NOT looking forward to

Brad
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Old 02-05-2016, 03:11 PM   #503
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For the past month or so I've been trying to source replacement cables for the parking brake. There are four different cables that make up the parking brake system. There are two cables at the rear, one for each brake drum. Then there is an intermediate cable (132" long) that is configured in a U shape that connects the two rear brake cables with the front cable that comes from the brake pedal.

After many hours of googling I finally came to the conclusion that the intermediate cable is no longer available. There are longer cables available which can easily be cut down to fit so hopefully that will solve the problem of replacing it.

There appear to be three different lengths of rear cables, 43-1/2", 44-1/4" & 49-1/2". The longer one is definitely to long which narrows it down to the two shorter ones. It's difficult to get exact measurements of the rear cables because they extend inside the drum about 5" to 6" or so. Looking through the RockAuto website the prices for the two shorter cables is not all that bad so I ordered the 44-1/4" cable for $12.83 to see if it fits. If it does I'll order another one. If not I'll order the shorter one

The real problem was trying to find a replacement for the front cable. The original cable measures 104" end to end. None of the cables listed on RockAuto that provided measurements were anywhere near the correct length. There was one cable listed for a 137" wheelbase (my Argosy is 125" wheelbase) that did not have a length listed. RockAuto had a close out price of $4.56 for the cable so I figured for less than $5 it would be worth buying the cable to see if it would fit or be close enough to make fit.

The cable came in today and I'm happy to say it's basically the same cable with the exception of a clevis that is attached to the pedal end of the cable. It shouldn't be to difficult to remove the clevis which means I got lucky and bought a cable that will work for less than $5

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The front cable is made by Wagner and the part number is F130452. A cross reference number is listed as BC130452. The cheapest I've been able to find elsewhere for this same cable is from My Parts Garage for $27.42. RockAuto has them listed for $39.79.
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Old 02-06-2016, 03:51 PM   #504
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Brad, whilst the shop was working on my brakes I had them measure the front cable installed in Bella and it came out a lot shorter than yours at around 88in. At the time Rockauto were doing a clearance on an 87in cable (BC93177) with the correct fittings at each end so I bought a couple for $5 each. Maybe the longer rear cable goes with the shorter front cable?
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