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Old 10-05-2015, 05:48 PM   #323
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Martin, I see what you mean about the taper at the top. Could you take a measurement from the top flat part of the doghouse cover to the floor of the cockpit? I'd like to see if there is a difference between the new style and the old style.

Next question, what is the measurement from the top front of the drivers seat to the floor?

And my last question How far rearward is the divers seat from the edge of the cockpit window?

Thanks!

Brad
Lets see if this works....

So the height from the main floor to the cockpit floor is 9", and the height of the doghouse is an additional 9"



The height from the top front of the drivers seat to the floor is 17" (made up of a 10" mount, 3" adapter, 4" seat)

(Terrible photo, sorry it was getting dark so I grabbed it quickly)



And when fully back, the base of the drivers seat is right on the rear edge of the cockpit window (however I sit with the seat in a recline so the top of the seat back is approx 8" behind the window).



This means the center of the mount is approx 8" forward of the edge of the cockpit (meaning the seat could have gone back a further 2", but that would have meant, it would be 2" forward when reversed 180")

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Old 10-06-2015, 06:38 AM   #324
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Nice shop Brad! Look forward to seeing the progress on your Argosy!
Thanks Sam! I'm looking forward to progress myself
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:47 AM   #325
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Brad, the doghouse on my '78 is obviously the old style that you're replacing. Took me forever to figure this out, but I ended up pulling the carpet out in front of the piano hinge. That flat section unbolts to expose the front of the engine. I was able to gain access to the belts/ac compressor etc with ease. Of course, I didn't figure this out until after I had lifted the engine with the hoist and done the motormounts.
But, bottom line is there actually is very good access with the old style. Just takes a few minutes to remove the panel. On mine anyhow.. no telling if its stock.
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:01 AM   #326
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Wouldn't you know it, I left my notes at home with all the dimensions on it

Quote:
Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
Lets see if this works....

So the height from the main floor to the cockpit floor is 9", and the height of the doghouse is an additional 9"
Those numbers sound pretty close to what I remember on mine.

Quote:
The height from the top front of the drivers seat to the floor is 17" (made up of a 10" mount, 3" adapter, 4" seat)
If I remember right you said originally you were 3" higher which would have put your seat at 20". With the flexsteel seats in mine using the original mount and seat my drivers seat is about 18-1/2". Oddly enough my passenger seat pedestal is about 2" taller than the drivers pedestal.

On Sunday I ordered a new 7-1/8" fixed pedestal and a 6-way power pedestal. The 6-way pedestal is a minimum 4" tall to a max of 6" tall. So with the seat being 4" + 7-1/8" + 4" my minimum height would be 15-1/8" with a maximum of 17-1/8". I will need to add an inch or two spacer so my seat height should fall within the range that you're currently using. Once I prove (to myself!) that the new fixed pedestal and 6-way pedestal are going to work I'll order the same for the passenger side. I ordered the pedestal parts from the Factory RV Surplus site that you mentioned previously in your thread.

Quote:
And when fully back, the base of the drivers seat is right on the rear edge of the cockpit window (however I sit with the seat in a recline so the top of the seat back is approx 8" behind the window).
I like my seat reclined as well although probably not think quite as much.

Quote:
This means the center of the mount is approx 8" forward of the edge of the cockpit (meaning the seat could have gone back a further 2", but that would have meant, it would be 2" forward when reversed 180")
Try this, move your seat forward until the back side of the seat is 1" rearward of the window and then change the tilt so it's pretty much straight up and down. If you still had the bathroom wall in place this is the where your seat would have to be! This configuration would likely explain why Airstream never used this arrangement in any other rig that I know of.

Thanks for taking the measurements!

Brad
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:28 AM   #327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpg_austin View Post
Brad, the doghouse on my '78 is obviously the old style that you're replacing. Took me forever to figure this out, but I ended up pulling the carpet out in front of the piano hinge. That flat section unbolts to expose the front of the engine. I was able to gain access to the belts/ac compressor etc with ease. Of course, I didn't figure this out until after I had lifted the engine with the hoist and done the motormounts.
But, bottom line is there actually is very good access with the old style. Just takes a few minutes to remove the panel. On mine anyhow.. no telling if its stock.
Ben, when I got my Argosy all of the doghouse components had been removed and piled in the back by the PO that yanked the 454. At one point I laid all of the pieces back in place to see what it was like. It's been so long now I don't remember how that flat section was attached.

So other than having to do a bit more work you can gain access to the front of the engine, that's a bit of good news. Overall I think I'm still going to be happier with the newer style doghouse cover. When I had to replace all the belts on the 310 while sitting on the side of I-75 it would have annoyed me to have to do any more work than I had to to get going again!

Thanks for pointing this out!

Brad
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:34 AM   #328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Try this, move your seat forward until the back side of the seat is 1" rearward of the window and then change the tilt so it's pretty much straight up and down. If you still had the bathroom wall in place this is the where your seat would have to be! This configuration would likely explain why Airstream never used this arrangement in any other rig that I know of.

Thanks for taking the measurements!

Brad
To be honest, I wouldn't have even fitted behind the wheel, even with it tilted straight up!

We have the same height on both driver and passenger side, and the biggest reason for lowering was DW could not reach the floor when sitting in the chair....she would end up legs swinging in mid-air. So I lowered them as far as possible so I was comfortable, she could touch the ground but they could still swing past the doghouse when turning. The reason for wanting the seats the same height will probably never come about....when the fold flat you could lay a platform for an extra (twin) base and have a extra bed.

One thing occurred to me and that is I have the factory 350 small block; is there any chance they needed to change to the second type of early doghouse if the big block was installed, and by the time they went to the fiberglass hutch all the engines were big block?????
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:51 AM   #329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
When I had to replace all the belts on the 310 while sitting on the side of I-75 it would have annoyed me to have to do any more work than I had to to get going again!



Brad
No arguing with that!!
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:52 AM   #330
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Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
To be honest, I wouldn't have even fitted behind the wheel, even with it tilted straight up!
In the original configuration it's tight for me as well. Not a well thought out floor plan by Airstream.

Quote:
We have the same height on both driver and passenger side, and the biggest reason for lowering was DW could not reach the floor when sitting in the chair....she would end up legs swinging in mid-air. So I lowered them as far as possible so I was comfortable, she could touch the ground but they could still swing past the doghouse when turning. The reason for wanting the seats the same height will probably never come about....when the fold flat you could lay a platform for an extra (twin) base and have a extra bed.
Makes sense and it's a nice idea to have them the same height for something like a small bed. I'll have to keep that one in mind.

Quote:
One thing occurred to me and that is I have the factory 350 small block; is there any chance they needed to change to the second type of early doghouse if the big block was installed, and by the time they went to the fiberglass hutch all the engines were big block?????
My 74 came with the 454 from the factory. I don't think there is much difference in height between the big block and the small block, at least from the motor mounts upwards. The difference seems to be more in the width and possibly a little lower for the oil pan.

I think like everything else on these motorhomes they just sort of evolved. Sometimes the evolution went down a path that was a dead end like Neanderthal so Airstream changed something to improve the line

My Argosy has a bunch of little features I've not seen on any other Argosy but I'm sure it came from the factory that way. I have two rear lower outer corner compartments that I've not seen before. I have an exterior storage compartment at the left rear under the bed and it has a rear fuel tank that sure looks like it was installed during the original build of the coach.

Argosy motorhomes are some of the more unique rigs that Airstream built.

Brad
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Old 10-07-2015, 07:26 AM   #331
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
On Sunday I ordered a new 7-1/8" fixed pedestal and a 6-way power pedestal. The 6-way pedestal is a minimum 4" tall to a max of 6" tall. So with the seat being 4" + 7-1/8" + 4" my minimum height would be 15-1/8" with a maximum of 17-1/8". I will need to add an inch or two spacer so my seat height should fall within the range that you're currently using.
I just noticed my math was wrong. The seat is as Martin stated previously 6" thick not 4". That means without any adapters to tie the base to the 6-way pedestal to the seat the overall height is 17-1/8". I will have to add a total of 3/4" for adapters which puts me at almost 18".

Fortunately I made one other mistake when I ordered the 7-1/8" pedestal. The floor in front of the seat is 2" higher than where the pedestal sits that effectively makes the pedestal 5-1/8" tall

So all is well again
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Old 11-12-2015, 01:08 PM   #332
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When ever I get a spare minute or two I've been sorting through what I need to do to get my dash reassembled. One of the major issues with the dash is the wiring mess and the dash AC installation.

As I was reviewing some pictures of the dash that I had taken while disassembling it I noticed something that I just had to laugh at. If you'll look at the picture below notice where the passenger floor vent opening is in relation to the return air vent.

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I'm not sure how Airstream ever thought that the passenger would get cool (or hot) air at their feet considering any air coming out of the floor vent was likely to be sucked right back into the return air vent before coming near the passenger.

I'll have to see if I can do something about the placement of the floor vent.

Brad
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Old 11-14-2015, 12:21 PM   #333
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I was referring to what they had changed the dog house to in 79 or before, which was rather annoying
That is the very same doghouse as in my 310 turbo diesel. There's very clearance between the top intake plenum and the doghouse cover. Yes it's a pain to move around it to get in an out of the front seats.

Coming together nicely Brad.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 11-17-2015, 11:51 AM   #334
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While doing the ABS plastic repair on the front valance I decided I might as well start working on the ABS fan housing that goes above the evaporator box for the dash AC.

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The fit between the evaporator box and the ABS housing was horrible. There were enough little gaps and cracks I'm surprised any air made it to the vents.

So far I'm really impressed with how the ABS repair process is working. It's a lot easier to work with than I thought it would be. Sometime in the next week or so I should have the evaporator box re-assembled and ready to mount to the firewall.

Baby steps...
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Old 11-17-2015, 12:53 PM   #335
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Brad,
As you know, I have done the MEK/ABS slurry repairs before.
To make it REALLY strong, wet in a piece of fiberglass mat over the cracked areas. I have found it might crack again if you don't do that.
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Old 11-17-2015, 01:19 PM   #336
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Brad,
As you know, I have done the MEK/ABS slurry repairs before.
To make it REALLY strong, wet in a piece of fiberglass mat over the cracked areas. I have found it might crack again if you don't do that.
Steve, several years ago after I read about your repairs was when I realized that damaged ABS panels could actually be fixed

What I plan on doing for the fan housing is to use metal bars on top of the ABS flanges for strength where it screws to the evaporator housing. I'm also going to use some self adhesive rubber strips to provide a seal.

The last thing I want is for that nice cool air to be blowing out of cracks and gaps in the engine compartment instead of blowing into the cockpit!

Brad
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