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Old 12-15-2012, 12:13 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by ViewRVs View Post
Have you tried Colaw RV Salvage? They may have an older Onan 4.0 that would fit.

Besides, what the heck are you planning in running in that thing where you need a 6.5? You only have one AC unit. I guess you'd need a 6.5 to run the AC and the microwave at the same time. Of course Argosy units never had Microwave ovens!

Fred, it seems that the older Onan 4.0 generators are 3" or more longer and over 4" taller than the 6.5 Emerald that I have. I'll keep looking for something that will fit without modifications but I'm not holding my breath.

Not really planning on anything with the extra capacity of the 6.5. It's just that I have it in hand already and it appears to be in really nice shape with only 300 hours on it.

Assuming I do end up using it I'll set it up like our 310 is with two transfer switches so that the A/C can run at the same time as a microwave or something else of higher capacity is plugged in.

I'd probably be willing to trade the 6.5 for something in the 4.0 range as long as the 4.0 fits without any modifications to the coach.

Brad
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:05 PM   #16
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If the Onan fits, and is low hrs, why not keep it.
better to have too much than too little. I doubt if it would use more gas at 2kw, than the smaller unit.

FYI...
Look what is tucked under the rear floor of our Dodge van...


I have the Owners manual in PDF if you want it...
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:05 PM   #17
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Steve, no need for a manual, I've already got one. However I'm scrapping the Generac. It's a 3600 rpm unit and from the looks of mine not worth even trying to get running again. I just drug it out from under the motorhome a little while ago. If you want parts from it let me know otherwise it's going on the scrap heap along with a lot of 345 parts.

Brad
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:30 PM   #18
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Other Argosy owners complete about how much the mirrors vibrate while driving so new mirrors are in order. One of the upgrades for the Argosy is going to be the installation of larger Ramco mirrors replacing the non-existent mirrors. The Argosy inner support mounts are nothing more that a piece of thin sheet metal.

Here is a picture of an Argosy that had the skin torn open when someone apparently hit the mirror.
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So in order to mount the Ramco mirrors I have to add an aluminum support plate on the inside similar to how the later Airstream motorhomes are configured. In order to accomplish this I had to remove the driver and passenger seats and the plastic wall liner under the windows. The passenger side removal was relatively easy.

The drivers side on the other hand has turned into a real nightmare. The plastic liner is under the bathroom wall skin and they are both under the aluminum guide that holds the wood panel that is riveted to the wall. At this point I decided it was time to purchase a Porter-Cable Multi-Tool and use it to trim the bathroom wall skin and then the plastic liner under the drivers window. I'll post pictures of this once I get the job done.

Back on the passenger side I was able to remove most of the rivets holding the inner aluminum skin to the ribs and was real surprised to find there was no insulation underneath

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Apparently the shell/ribs for the cab area for the Argosy was constructed differently than the 310/345 that I'm familiar with. Worse, when pulling the skin back I could see the ground under the coach

There is actually a thin layer of a black tar like substance that was sprayed inside the wall cavity. Since I want to insulate the walls in the cab I'm going to have to figure out how to seal the openings. As it is water from the front wheels can get sprayed up into that area.

Something else to add to the list of projects

Brad
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:37 PM   #19
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Just thought I'd post this picture. The car is a 1948 Triumph 1800 Roadster. It's a rusting hulk that is slated to be turned into a source for parts. I just thought it was an interesting contrast

Brad

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Old 01-06-2013, 08:03 PM   #20
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Spent some more time crawling around the cockpit of the Argosy trying to get the aluminum side panels off and the dash top removed. Seems like I start making some progress and then run into one stumbling block after another

In order to get inside the walls beside the drivers and passenger seats the outer plastic panel has to be removed and then the underlying aluminum skin needs to be removed. For the most part the passenger side was pretty straight forward except for the fact that the skin went on before the dash was put in place so that meant the dash needed to be removed. Same for the drivers side only worse because the outer plastic panel AND the aluminum skin are underneath the bathroom wall

This weekend was the first time I used my Porter-Cable Multi-Tool. It made quick work of cutting through the plastic panel and the underlying aluminum skin. I'm now down to needing the dash removed to get assess to the remaining rivets so I can pull the inner aluminum skin. One good thing is I'll be able to replace the outside radio antenna now that I have perfect access to it and the wiring

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The inner wall of the drivers side was the same as the passenger side in that there is no insulation in the wall. However on the drivers side the plastic cover had pink insulation behind it. The passenger side didn't so I'm guessing some PO removed the insulation at some point.

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While working on removing the inner skin on the drivers side I had a nice view of the outside. Right in the drivers side wheel well. Something I definitely need to fix.

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I'm down to having to remove one screw and the dash cover will come off. Unfortunately this is another one of those stumbling blocks. The remaining screw has a missing head. Whoever it was at the factory that was installing the dash must have over-torqued the screw and snapped the head off. He then added another screw about an inch from the broken one. I have to figure out some way to get that broken screw out before the dash top will slide the rest of the way off. Very frustrating.

I'll add a picture tomorrow showing what I'm talking about.

Brad
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:21 AM   #21
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Just thought I'd post this picture. The car is a 1948 Triumph 1800 Roadster. It's a rusting hulk that is slated to be turned into a source for parts. I just thought it was an interesting contrast

Brad

Attachment 175711
What a shame to see this parted out....I once read in a hotrod magazine that if you can identify a metal car part you can fix it!!!!!
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:14 PM   #22
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But what if you don't have the part?!

Its actually being used as a parts car for one in a lot better condition. You its rusty when the jack goes through the frame.
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:24 PM   #23
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Ok, here's a few pictures of the broken screw. The screw has to come out for the dash to come out. The best option is if I can get a small pair of Vice Grips up in there to try and turn the screw tip. If that doesn't work I could be up a creek without a paddle.

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I do have some long drill bits that might allow me to drill enough of the screw body that the dash will slide out but I think I'd have to be real lucky for that to work.

Since I don't have any decent Vice Grips I think I'll pick up a real good pair and hope for the best.

Stay tuned...

Brad
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:56 AM   #24
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Finally had a chance to catch up reading the forums..... any progress on the screw?
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:06 AM   #25
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Finally had a chance to catch up reading the forums..... any progress on the screw?
I haven't had a chance to stop by the hardware store to buy a GOOD quality pair of small vice grips. I may only get one chance at getting this screw out and I would prefer to use a good tool. The only vice grips I have are of the larger variety and they won't fit up inside the dash.

I'm hoping to attempt the extraction this coming Friday

Brad
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Old 01-09-2013, 12:39 PM   #26
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Good luck! needle nose vice grips are one of the best tools ever.

I may be taking my dash top or drivers side panel off to check a leak when I replace the side window gaskets. Figure the more I know about solving the problem the less likely I will have it
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:43 PM   #27
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One of the most used tools I have since working on trailers is screw pliers. Great for rusted or broken screws.
Screw-Pliers Dot Com
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:01 PM   #28
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One of the most used tools I have since working on trailers is screw pliers. Great for rusted or broken screws.
Screw-Pliers Dot Com
Doug, interesting pliers. I definitely could have used those on the 10 Philips head screws that were on the upper front of the dash. I couldn't grip them well with channel lock pliers and my vice grips were worn just enough to make it difficult but I did get them out in the end.

I don't think these pliers would allow me to grip the screw body tight enough since I'll will have to be reaching up inside the dash with not a whole lot of room to maneuver.

Thanks for the link!

Brad
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