'74 Argosy 20' Motorhome restoration/rebuild

[gmehal]

Looks like a gas/electric 10 gallon? That's what I upgraded mine to, very pleased and I almost run it exclusively on electric.

[bkahler]

The water heater is just the standard 6 gallon unit. It is the gas/electric combo with remote start. Installed the same unit in our 310 and am quite happy with it.

Brad

[bkahler]

Been a while since I gave an update on progress. That's probably because there hasn't been a whole lot unless you count the 1st 454 engine startup that I've been working towards

There is still more work to do on the engine but I think I'm over the hump on that issue. Now that I know I have a working motor I went ahead and hot pressure washed the engine compartment in preparation for painting.



I couldn't reach all of the spots I wanted to with the spray but I got enough of it that what little I have to clean by hand won't be to bad.

Once I get the painting done I'll finish installing the front rotors and brakes so I can get it back on all four wheels.

Brad

[cwf]

While you can, run bunch of different color wires from bow to behind firewall! Probably about 15 or so and label them 1-x. You will need to leave a couple of feet on each end.

Now is also a great time to get tranny ready....have it tested... Run tranny cooler lines now and engine oil cooler lines too!

The electric fans for radiator are the way to go. You will need wiring for this and the engine sensors.... Hope you have enough wire

Oh, will you have AC from engine power? If so don't forget a fresh drier and possibly AC HOSES.

Fuel lines and filters... There are some really nice fuel filters that are better than the one I se in your pics. A water separating fuel filter like boats have...nice. Think "I Amon the road and I want to know where stuff is so I can fix if a road problem develops.

Sorry, just a burst of thoughts. I now return you to your Saturday evening.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by cwf

While you can, run bunch of different color wires from bow to behind firewall! Probably about 15 or so and label them 1-x. You will need to leave a couple of feet on each end.

I'm not to concerned about extra wires. I've found it relatively easy to route new wires from the engine compartment to the dash area. I will however definitely make the instrument cluster easy to remove for decent access behind it. That's what I found to be the most difficult to work on with the 310 is behind the dash/instrument cluster. Airstream definitely didn't have service in mind when they built these things.

Now is also a great time to get tranny ready....have it tested... Run tranny cooler lines now and engine oil cooler lines too!

The current configuration of the engine stand won't handle the transmission being bolted to the back of the motor. Also, the transmission is already bolted in the chassis (thanks to PO) and I'm not so sure I want to remove it

The electric fans for radiator are the way to go. You will need wiring for this and the engine sensors.... Hope you have enough wire

Wire isn't a problem...I recently dismantled a 345 that had plenty of wire inside

Oh, will you have AC from engine power? If so don't forget a fresh drier and possibly AC HOSES.

Most definitely. I've had to build the entire system from scratch since the only part of the engine a/c system that came with the Argosy was the evaporator. I've had to source, the condenser, the compressor mounts, evaporator, lines, filter, etc. I had the evaporator tested and it looks like new. I wouldn't want to drive one of these this without at least cool air blowing in my face!

Fuel lines and filters... There are some really nice fuel filters that are better than the one I se in your pics. A water separating fuel filter like boats have...nice. Think "I Amon the road and I want to know where stuff is so I can fix if a road problem develops.

The fuel filter in the picture is a cheap one I grabbed off the shelf for use on the test stand.

Sorry, just a burst of thoughts. I now return you to your Saturday evening.

Unfortunately it's not Saturday any longer, it's a work day...

[bkahler]

Since I was working on the steering column removing the horn ring to send to Andrew (abridge01) I figured while I'm there I might as well take care of the steering column swap that I've been planning on.



Everything was going fine until I got to the last screw holding the floor cover in place (it's always the last screw isn't it!). The last screw just spins in place which I assume means the captive nut on under the floor board has broken free. So now I guess I get to crawl inside the wheel well and see if I can grind away the nut



We just had a huge rain storm blow through so it's nice and muggy now. Just right for working underneath a motorhome

Brad

[bkahler]

Well, using vice grips under the floorboard holding the loose captive nut allowed me to drill the head of the screw off. Solved that problem

With the final screw removed I was now able to remove the clamp just under the floorboard that holds the steering column to the floorboard. Then all I had to do was remove the two clamp bolts up top and the column lifted right out.



I had a bear of a time getting the new steering gear coupler installed. Several months ago I ordered two steering couplers, one for the Argosy and one for the 310. The Argosy was supposed to use a Lares part # 202 and the 84 310 was supposed to use a Dorman 31015. After looking things over there was no way the Lares 202 was going to fit on the steering gearbox

Fortunately I hadn't installed the one on the 310 yet so I decided to see if it would fit. Sure enough it was the right size and configuration. Now I need to order another coupler for the 310



GM made it easy to install the steering column. There is a hole in the back side of the steering column and a hook on the upper mount under the dash. All you have to do is hang the steering column from the hook and proceed to fastening everything in place. Of course you do need to make sure the coupler is aligned properly as you drop the steering column into place. This actually turned out to be the easiest part of the job. You can see the hook in the first picture.



One thing that has me baffled. On the 86 345 steering column a switch or sensor was bolted close to the floorboard. The little ear sticks into the steering column housing. The 74 Argosy didn't have this sensor installed. Any clue as to what it is for?



Brad

[Overlander & Sea]

It looks like the neutral safety switch.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Overlander & Sea

It looks like the neutral safety switch.

Rick,

I just looked at my 74 chassis wiring diagram and it shows a four wire neutral safety switch. And I just looked at the original 74 steering column and there are no provisions for mounting the switch. The 86 steering column had two screw holes for mounting the switch, they aren't present on the 74 column.

Rockauto.com lists the switch in the attached picture as being the neutral safety switch



Since the wiring diagram shows four wires and this switch only has two there is an obvious disconnect somewhere! I need to see if the switch in the picture is located somewhere on the chassis. I also need to do a comparison between my chassis wiring and the factory wiring diagram.

Did GM use different types of safety switches on the P30 trucks? This really has me baffled!

Brad

[Overlander & Sea]

Brad,

I'll check in the morning about the switch. My '75 Argosy 20' MH is at work. I also own a Chevrolet dealership (next door to the Airtstream dealership), so we should be able to identify the switch on your model.

BTW, great work on your Argosy!!

Rick

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Overlander & Sea

Brad,

I'll check in the morning about the switch. My '75 Argosy 20' MH is at work. I also own a Chevrolet dealership (next door to the Airtstream dealership), so we should be able to identify the switch on your model.

BTW, great work on your Argosy!!

Rick

Rick, that would be great! There are so many little mysteries on these rigs and at times they can be difficult to sort out.

I think I've seen pictures of your Argosy. Is it blue and white?

Thanks!

Brad

[Overlander & Sea]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Rick, that would be great! There are so many little mysteries on these rigs and at times they can be difficult to sort out.

I think I've seen pictures of your Argosy. Is it blue and white?

Thanks!

Brad

You are right about the number of mysteries on these units. My Agosy MH has been at a local trim shop with with all the interior walls removed. There are cut wires, wires that don't connect to anything, ground wires just hanging there, etc. We bought it back to our shop last week to paint the lower shower area before the new interior is installed. Yes, it's blue & white, I need update the thread.

Rick

[vswingfield]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Well, using vice grips under the floorboard holding the loose captive nut allowed me to drill the head of the screw off. Solved that problem


Brad

That was going to be my suggestion.

Good to see progress.

[Overlander & Sea]

Originally Posted by bkahler

One thing that has me baffled. On the 86 345 steering column a switch or sensor was bolted close to the floorboard. The little ear sticks into the steering column housing. The 74 Argosy didn't have this sensor installed. Any clue as to what it is for?

Attachment 192950

Brad

Brad, I asked some of the guys at work and we believe this is the neutral safety swith, since your '74 Argosy MH has an automatic transmission.

Originally Posted by bkahler

Rick,

I just looked at my 74 chassis wiring diagram and it shows a four wire neutral safety switch. And I just looked at the original 74 steering column and there are no provisions for mounting the switch. The 86 steering column had two screw holes for mounting the switch, they aren't present on the 74 column.

Rockauto.com lists the switch in the attached picture as being the neutral safety switch

Attachment 192960

Since the wiring diagram shows four wires and this switch only has two there is an obvious disconnect somewhere! I need to see if the switch in the picture is located somewhere on the chassis. I also need to do a comparison between my chassis wiring and the factory wiring diagram.

Did GM use different types of safety switches on the P30 trucks? This really has me baffled!

Brad

....and we believe this photo from Rockauto.com is for a clutch safety switch, or to put it another way, a neutral safety switch for a manual transmission.

Rick