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Old 04-14-2013, 09:31 AM   #155
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Thanks!

The roof air already works! Getting it working (i.e. replaced) so I could work inside comfortably this summer was the main reason I installed it this past winter. I've worked inside the 310 in the middle of summer without A/C and it's NOT fun

Stereo is a different issue. Gotta get the dash installed first and that's still a month or two away from happening. It's mowing season here so that takes up a chunk of time during the week.

Brad
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:03 AM   #156
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I have a 20' front bath Argosy MH that has been gutted. I am putting it back together with the same basic floor plan but upgrading the materials used. J am seeing/feeling your pain in certain areas but since I'm in San Diego and the Argosy is in what appears to be, better over all condition, I am hoping to complete the work in a shorter time frame. I have many ?'s to ask.
Working on the dash AC now. Ever figure out where to locate the actuators?
Thanks,
bIRD
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:32 AM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdsurfs View Post
I have a 20' front bath Argosy MH that has been gutted. I am putting it back together with the same basic floor plan but upgrading the materials used. J am seeing/feeling your pain in certain areas but since I'm in San Diego and the Argosy is in what appears to be, better over all condition, I am hoping to complete the work in a shorter time frame. I have many ?'s to ask.
Working on the dash AC now. Ever figure out where to locate the actuators?
Thanks,
bIRD
bIRD,

I'll try and answer any questions that you have.

I did find a source for the actuators. I first tried ordering from the website but the shipping costs weren't being totalled correctly so I called and sent and email. He eventually responded to both and acknowledged that his website was incorrect in calculating shipping for multiple items. He then billed me direct with the correct shipping. I've received the actuators and they are identical to the ones in my Argosy.

Here are the actuators I needed for mine. Note, one actuator is different than the others.

Name:030-00029Description: 030-00029-Vac motor
Unit price: 28.50
Qty: 1
Amount: 28.50

Name:030-00046Description: 030-00046-Vac motor
Unit price: 28.50
Qty: 3
Amount: 85.50


Subtotal: 114.00
Shipping and handling: 15.50

Total: 129.50 USD


There are two actuators inside the evaporator/heater box that are located in the bottom section that control two doors that open & close depending on dash control settings. If both doors are open you get air directly from outside. When the outside door is closed air is recirculated within the coach. Both of my doors were rusted open so I will be replacing the hinges with either brass or stainless units.

If you haven't removed the evaporator/heater box it may be possible to remove the bottom section of the box to gain access to the actuators. I'll look at mine this afternoon to verify this. If possible I would recommend removing the box and dismantling as I found that about 40% to 45% of the cores were plugged due to pet hair, dirt and debris.

If you haven't removed the evaporator/heater box yet be careful because the plastic air plenum that sits on top of the box is screwed to the top of the box. The only way I know of to gain access to these screws is to do what I did which is remove the entire dash assembly including the full length aluminum plate. That was a royal pain in the back side to deal with.

I have some ideas on how to attach the plastic plenum to the top of the evaporator/heater box to allow removal of the box without dismantling the entire dash. I'll post information on that one of these days.

Brad
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:22 AM   #158
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Man! Your on it Brad and THANK you so much for the prompt and informative reply. As it stands now the entire box has been cut out from under the dash. I have it and the parts with in it. I now need to replace the box some how. Reposition the evaporator and see if my actuators work or not. Trying to keep the dash top on for sure and I'll have to cover it somehow. I have and will replace the lower dash with one that has not been all cut up and toggle switched out. So many more questions!
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Old 04-19-2013, 11:51 AM   #159
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What did you do to get the evaporator/heater box out from under the dash? Can you post some pictures?

As for the lower dash assembly with the switches and vents in it, it's actually made of of two pieces. One is the main extruded frame and the black face is a vinyl clad piece of aluminum sheet that slides into groves in the extruded frame.

I think I have found a suitable replacement for the vinyl clap aluminum sheet. I'm looking at using just an aluminum sheet of about .050" thickness and sliding it into the extruded frame via the existing grooves. That will cover up any holes or cutouts that I decide not to use. Like yours mine had an abundance of switches added that looked unsightly.

Brad
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Old 04-19-2013, 02:18 PM   #160
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I was able to remove the vinyl clad aluminum insert from the dash frame. The insert is about .043" thick. I was thinking about just installing a new insert from .040" aluminum sheet but after thinking about it for a while I may just buy a .125 x 2.60" x 96" aluminum bar and lay it over the face of the frame where the insert was. Using something that is .125" thick will provide support for any new openings that I put in the dash.

Brad
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:13 PM   #161
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Shot a few photos of my interior area all stripped out down to the wood floor and the inside aluminum of the unit. Don't know how to send them to u as I'm not to computer savvy per-say. I would love to see as many shots of your interior before and after removal so that I can use them to put mine back together again. I'd really like to see how the rear couch/bed area goes together. The PO saved just about every piece that he took out plus extra parts that had been purchased from a donor argosy. One big issue that I'm trying to deal with is the drivers side rear corner banana wrap that was taken out in a fender bender. The passengers side is there though pretty cracked up on the under side. There is a fuel cap in place that feeds the gas tank for the Geneck generator.
In regards to the evaporator/heater box, it was literally cut out! I still have it but boy would it be hard to reinstall after such a butcher job on the removal. Again though items are not installed they are still with the vehicle.
I removed the passenger side plastic cover in the cockpit as it to looked worse for the wear. Under it was the same gauge Aluminum panels that cover the rest of the interior. NO insulation between it and the body skin. I plan on removing that portion and replacing it with what ever material that will be used to do the whole interior. It will be well insulated first of course. I'm thinking of using light EPS foam panels cut to fit every cavity that I can fit it into before the inside skin goes back on. I am also thinking of using thin wood veneer for the interior panels. It flex's well and should be easy to insert into the cabinet, closets and door panels through out the interior.
Sorry about rambling on so much but finding your post is like a dream come true for me since you have done and or experienced everything that I'm dealing with.
THANK U!
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:56 AM   #162
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Can anybody give me some ideas on how you replace the window seals on both sides of the cockpit area? I can't even figure out how to get the windows out. Where are new seals etc available for the reinstallation assuming that I can remove them somehow?
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:18 AM   #163
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Can anybody give me some ideas on how you replace the window seals on both sides of the cockpit area? I can't even figure out how to get the windows out. Where are new seals etc available for the reinstallation assuming that I can remove them somehow?
Talk to Andy from Inland RV, he has everything you need plus an instruction sheet.
Wxbouy over in the Classic MH section just did them with a little help from me.... I close to you, so PM me and I would be pleased to walk you thru it!
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:25 AM   #164
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Can anybody give me some ideas on how you replace the window seals on both sides of the cockpit area? I can't even figure out how to get the windows out. Where are new seals etc available for the reinstallation assuming that I can remove them somehow?
This is what I used, assuming you are talking about the sliding part of the side windows:
AS1268 Flexible Flocked Lining All-Rubber | Hi-Tech Glazing Supplies
You should have a short section on the top towards the front that you pull out first. Then you can move the sliding window forward and gently lift it into the now empty space of the channel and find just the right spot to pull the window out on the bottom. Installation is the reverse.
You also want to put a slice every 1/4" on the back of the new channel where it meets the corners. so it will confirm nicely to the curve. Don't for get to cut drain holes for the drain plugs.
The fuzzy stuff between the 2 windows is available at Airstream dealers. The stuff on the outside is pretty much a waste of money to replace. It does little to keep the water out and only lasts a few years before it shrinks and hardens.
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:24 PM   #165
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Can anybody give me some ideas on how you replace the window seals on both sides of the cockpit area? I can't even figure out how to get the windows out. Where are new seals etc available for the reinstallation assuming that I can remove them somehow?
PM me for phone number and I can help you out. Keysir saved my bacon with his calming words of wisdom in doing it. I am 1/2 through writing up instructions with pictures.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:44 PM   #166
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OK! No upper piece was in place on the drivers side so with a little effort out it came. Now for the passenger side.
Thanks for all who replied,
bIRD
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:20 PM   #167
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Rusty floor

It appears as though my 82 24' MH has the same rusted out floor in the passenger/driver area......there is not much there to weld a new floor to....argh.....not happy about this.....an unexpected bump......but apparently, I should have expected such a thing....paula
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Old 05-19-2013, 05:39 PM   #168
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In my continuing quest to find and fix the source of all the water leaks I decided it was time to replace the old water heater with the new one. There were definite leaks from the seams of the old one and rather than re-seal the old one only to tear it out later this summer I opted to just go ahead and put the new on in.

After removing the old Atwood water heater you can see from looking at the picture below there are a lot more holes around the edge of the opening than are needed for the Atwood water heater so I'm assuming at some point there was a different brand of water heater installed. Fortunately the extra holes didn't pose a problem for the new installation.

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I'm going to have to rebuild the water heater support frame but I will hold off doing that until after I get the new floor installed.

Click image for larger version

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Yeah, I know it's a white cover

I have the original water heater cover that I will be using once the exterior is ready to go. I just put the new one in place to keep mud daubers and wasps out of things.

Click image for larger version

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I also spent a few minutes sealing the tops of the rear windows with Acryl-R in the hopes that will cure the water leak in the back. Now for some rain...

Brad
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