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Old 12-03-2018, 06:45 PM   #1457
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1975 20' Argosy 20
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'74 Argosy 20' Motorhome restoration/rebuild

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I'll definitely do what works for me.



The real limiting factor is going to be the windows. The counter has to stop below the counter tops. The interior design is going to be an interesting project considering I have no sense of what goes with what


This is why Bella has two 24 windows and one 30 on the driver side verses the standard MH like Peanut having two 30 and one 24. If Peanut had two 24 windows on the side my spare pano windows would definitely be going in and the layout be changed to rear twins.
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Old 12-04-2018, 06:13 AM   #1458
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That's why God created cardboard. Mock up everything with cardboard or the cheapest OSB board you can buy, including doors, just so you can get a drift for what happens if you open the fridge or bathroom door and how it will push your body into something else. It doesn't have to look beautiful, it just has to work and give you food for thought.
Cardboard is good stuff. I do have cardboard cutouts that I lay on the floor. Unfortunately with the small size of the 20' my options are really limited as to what can go where. For the general floor plan I've more or less settled on mine being a mirror of Martins with the bath/shower on the drivers side along with a small closet and probably the fridge. The passenger side will be all counter top with the furnace and water heater located on that side. I may swap the water heater and the fridge. I'm still undecided on that issue.

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So make your bathroom as a unit that you can push around to fit; don't attach anything to the walls but make it sure it is the right size to work for you.
That's a good idea. I'll probably make really cheap cabinets, bath, etc and set them in place to see if it really works like I'm hoping. Like I said, my options are pretty limited.

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Once you're happy with how everything goes then give me a call and we'll meet sometime this summer.
I can do that. You still want that air suspension assembly from the 345?

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PS Think convection microwave, which doubles as a microwave/oven, or toaster oven; induction cooktops, which are light weight as well.......there are some really nice light modern appliances which I wish I had used on my Airstream, but will do on the Argosy.
I've bought the same sink/stove top combo that Martin installed in Bella. I like how compact it is. I do want a microwave as well so will look into a convection microwave.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 12-05-2018, 08:45 AM   #1459
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Door gap

Hi Brad
Back at the beginning of this thread you talked about your door had a gap and ways to fix it. My door also has a gap at the bottom and I need help making it fit properly. Any advice will be appreciated.
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Old 12-05-2018, 07:08 PM   #1460
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Hi Brad
Back at the beginning of this thread you talked about your door had a gap and ways to fix it. My door also has a gap at the bottom and I need help making it fit properly. Any advice will be appreciated.
al
Al,

Straightening the door is one of those tasks I haven't tackled yet. Mainly because I now have three doors to choose from so I'm hoping one of them will fit nicely!

Depending on how bad your gap is there are two ways that I've heard of that might work. One method can be seen in this thread where someone is straightening their trailer door.

I can't find it right now but there is a video put out by Airstream showing how to straighten a door as well.

If your gap is like the gap that my current door has then at a minimum you will need to remove the rivets from the inside skin that is attached to the door. You would then have to tweak the door itself until the gap is removed and then you re-install the inner door skin using new holes. You don't want to try and put rivets back in the old holes as that would just allow the door to return to it's old shape.

That's about all I know on door straightening.

Brad
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Old 12-05-2018, 07:17 PM   #1461
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Al,



Straightening the door is one of those tasks I haven't tackled yet. Mainly because I now have three doors to choose from so I'm hoping one of them will fit nicely!



Depending on how bad your gap is there are two ways that I've heard of that might work. One method can be seen in this thread where someone is straightening their trailer door.



I can't find it right now but there is a video put out by Airstream showing how to straighten a door as well.



If your gap is like the gap that my current door has then at a minimum you will need to remove the rivets from the inside skin that is attached to the door. You would then have to tweak the door itself until the gap is removed and then you re-install the inner door skin using new holes. You don't want to try and put rivets back in the old holes as that would just allow the door to return to it's old shape.



That's about all I know on door straightening.



Brad


What about door hinge bushings? Are they replaceable or will I have to buy new hinges?
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Old 12-06-2018, 05:37 AM   #1462
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What about door hinge bushings? Are they replaceable or will I have to buy new hinges?
To my knowledge there are no bushings for the door hinge pins. I will admit though that I've never really looked that close at their construction. I've got a couple of hinges that are loose in a box that I can look at to see how they are made. Some people including myself has added nylon washers to fill the gaps so the doors don't sag. I don't know if washers came originally or not. I just found that info on several posts here on Airforums.

If I remember correctly the hinges are still available from Airstream for around $75 to $100 each.
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Old 12-06-2018, 09:24 AM   #1463
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To my knowledge there are no bushings for the door hinge pins. I will admit though that I've never really looked that close at their construction. I've got a couple of hinges that are loose in a box that I can look at to see how they are made. Some people including myself has added nylon washers to fill the gaps so the doors don't sag. I don't know if washers came originally or not. I just found that info on several posts here on Airforums.



If I remember correctly the hinges are still available from Airstream for around $75 to $100 each.


Ok. I was wondering. My hinges are bolted firmly to the door frame but there is quite a bit of play in the hinge itself. Enough that the door will not latch like it should. Sounds like I need to just get some new hinges.
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Old 12-06-2018, 01:45 PM   #1464
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Ok. I was wondering. My hinges are bolted firmly to the door frame but there is quite a bit of play in the hinge itself. Enough that the door will not latch like it should. Sounds like I need to just get some new hinges.
New hinges would probably provide the best end result. The cost of machining the existing hinges for bushings would likely be higher than for new hinges.
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Old 12-06-2018, 02:09 PM   #1465
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New hinges would probably provide the best end result. The cost of machining the existing hinges for bushings would likely be higher than for new hinges.
Yup! You really don't want to do this job more than once. It's a bit of a pain accessing the nuts from the inside. Another tip to be aware of, when replacing the hinges on my '82 310, I found that the hinges are stamped "U" for upper and "L" for lower. These hinges are labeled for trailers and on Motorhome s they install the opposite way. The U hinge will go on the bottom and the L hinge will go on the top. They came with no paper work warning of this......I got kinda pissed off after an hour or so until I flipped them. Then I found out the correct info from a fellow forum member. I assume the same is true for Argosies but Brad can tell you if they use the same hinges.
But as Brad says, go with new hinges. they get a great deal of wear/use and you don't want to have to fight it six months down the road.

Mike
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Old 12-06-2018, 02:27 PM   #1466
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Awesome info! Thanks fellas!
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Old 12-06-2018, 05:29 PM   #1467
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Yep, trailer, Argosy or Classic the hinges are the same.
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Old 12-07-2018, 10:21 AM   #1468
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Yep, trailer, Argosy or Classic the hinges are the same.
Just to add.......John and I added a 1/4" aluminum plate, drilled and tapped to accept the hinge bolts, that we vulkemed in place, instead of using nuts on the inside of the wall. The reason being, should the hinges have to be replace again, you only have to unscrew the hinge and replace, instead of ripping apart the interior wall to get at the nuts.

Cheers
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Old 12-07-2018, 12:35 PM   #1469
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Just to add.......John and I added a 1/4" aluminum plate, drilled and tapped to accept the hinge bolts, that we vulkemed in place, instead of using nuts on the inside of the wall. The reason being, should the hinges have to be replace again, you only have to unscrew the hinge and replace, instead of ripping apart the interior wall to get at the nuts.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony
I was planning on doing something similar but instead of using vulkem I was going to rivet the plate in place. I think I like the vulkem idea better and will likely use that approach.

Brad
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Old 12-07-2018, 12:41 PM   #1470
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I was planning on doing something similar but instead of using vulkem I was going to rivet the plate in place. I think I like the vulkem idea better and will likely use that approach.

Brad
No sense drilling another potential leak.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony
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