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Old 11-22-2009, 05:44 PM   #43
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1974 20' Argosy 20
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Jo,

On our 20' Argosy with the 350 engine I was able to pull the engine without removing anything except the carburetor. After it was out I compared it to the 454 that's going back in and there didn't seem to be a whole lot of difference.

I would try and remove the engine while leaving the pan and heads on if at all possible.

It won't be until later this winter that I will have time to install the 454 back into the Argosy.

Take lots of pictures!

Brad
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Old 11-22-2009, 05:57 PM   #44
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I've allredy got everything down to the intake manifold everything is off the front ,
exhaust manifolds , still have some bolts in drivers side one .exhaust pipes down still need to pull starter and drive line.
Brad ,Did you pull tranny out with engine?
Have been trying to keep up on pics . when they get more interesting I will post.
Jo
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Old 11-22-2009, 06:17 PM   #45
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Jo,

Just to make sure I understand you correctly, you've unbolted everything that's attached to the front of the engine, removed the exhaust manifolds and removed the carburetor. You still have the heads, intake manifold and oil pan installed. Correct? If so that should be all you have to take of the engine.

I don't think you can pull the transmission with the engine due to it making it extremely tail heavy. I used one of those adapters that bolts in place of the carburetor. Its a flat plate with an angle welded to it for attachment purposes. You want to keep the engine hoist hookup as close to the top of the intake manifold as you can. You also will want to have the engine hoist set such that it is mostly parallel or slightly down in front so that when you raise it up it still has clearance and doesn't hit anything above it.

When I was pulling our engine it was almost anti-climatic after all the prep work I did. If your setup is right it should come out relatively easy.

I used a motorcycle jack (the type with four wheels and a platform) to support the transmission in place. Worked very nicely.

As a matter of fact the transmission is still sitting in place and I've trailered the Argosy 600 miles to our new home.

Brad
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Old 11-22-2009, 06:23 PM   #46
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Brad,
Correct.
I have been thinking it would be easier to just drop the tranny down and pull it out the side any way.Makes sense about the weight on back of engine.
Nice to know there is a possibility of it not being to intense.
Jo
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Old 11-22-2009, 06:30 PM   #47
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Here is an ebay auction 380179047264 for the manifold lift plate that I used. I had never used one before but was quite pleased with how well it worked.

Good luck!

Brad
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Old 11-23-2009, 08:05 AM   #48
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Great find Brad, cheap too.
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:14 PM   #49
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Interior pics

Here are some pics of bathroom. Great shape. I was pleasantly surprised.Will put new toilet in, reuse the sink and fiberglass in a shower pan no seat .Also new water lines. That was what started this whole project was a leaky water line behind the shower pan. And my helpers always there for support.
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Old 05-09-2010, 05:37 PM   #50
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Wadmalaw Island , South Carolina
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Love your support staff--we got some of those, too! The bathroom is awesome! Thanks for sharing pictures.

We are halfway through the cork project on the floors, going to seal them (no waxing, LOL). We also painted the roof with some elastomeric paint and did the caulking up there--no more leaks. The floor was in surprisingly good shape under the carpet, just one area about 1 ft x 3 ft needed new plywood, just under the swivel chairs. Cork is so nice to work with and I got a good price on 4 boxes--just $120 at the Lumber Liquidators.

And hey, because it's a question I ask everyone with one of these old Argosy MHs--what do you suppose that little recessed space is right inside the door that has four slots in it (on the left side as you walk in, about chest high, above the little fabric door).
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Old 05-13-2010, 10:37 PM   #51
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Sounds like you are making good progress .Hope to see some pics of your floor. I am no where close to flooring I would at least like to get the leaks fixed first. Seems like every time I get one stopped another one pops up.
As far as the spaces maybe bottles? What else have you got?
Thanks for the post.
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Old 07-12-2010, 04:24 PM   #52
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1978 Argosy 30
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Where is breaker panel?

My friend just bought a 1978 Argosy 30 ft trailer. Having electric problems. The owners manual refers to a breaker panel but we cannot find it. Find fuse box under bed at back of trailer.
Any help?
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Old 07-13-2010, 07:15 PM   #53
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We did both the cork floor and the windows. Yes, the floor is squishy. The first time I walked on it I thought it had rotted overnight. Then realized it was the cork. We've only had it down for a short while. The fuzzy stuff has been great to replace but it did take some time. I love the original colors on your MH's. Ours came with funky colors.
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Old 07-13-2010, 07:36 PM   #54
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Squishy floor that sounds interesting.I am thinking about going with the traffic master .I have it in sob mh. and it has held up really well . But no insulation value. I don't know I'm not very close to geting floor down. Still working on the bathroom everything is ready to go in as soon as I get the shower pan done. That seems to be taking more time than you would think. Oh well. Still have an engine and tranny to put in too. Was hoping to take the Argosy to Colorado in Sept . Will have to see how it goes.

As far as a breaker panel mine is in back closet in the bathroom.
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Old 07-15-2010, 04:54 PM   #55
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Shower pan and bathroom redo

This has been quite a learning experiance trying to build shower pan.I am getting closer.
After laying some fiberglass mat and resin down today realized I would need a lot more than I had on hand.
Looks like I will be taking a drive to Henderson Nv. tomorrow to a marine store to get what i need.That will be ok I've been wanting to go the Campers World there anyway. Last time I went I got a great deal on a china toilet $100.00 plus the $14 to join .
Took a lot of time to figure out the way to make the shower pan. The space is curved and I knew there was no way I could make a form to fit the curve so I decided to build it inside the space . Framed the partition wall and from wall to back coach wall with 1" x 10" pine boards.Then had to build a base with some slope to it. For this I used the wedges they had under the old shower pan along with some that I made ,my shower pan is bigger than the original , attached them to a piece of luan already cut to fit the space. Laid this down in the bottom of the space then put heavy duty plastic on the bottom and up the side. I don't want the fiberglass to stick to the walls.So far So good.
Not for long. As soon as I open the package for the mat I know I might have enough for one layer not the 2 or 3 I had planned. Oh well no big deal . I will go ahead and do 1 layer.I mix up 32 oz. of resin and I guess somewhere in the neighborhood of 450 drops of hardener,measured in a half teaspoon,.Great should have 10 to 15 minutes of tme. Quickly realize not even close to amount I will need. to late allready mixed use what I have and in this heat ,100 plus, I got maybe 5 minutes of work time.
Learning.What a sport.
At least I made it easy enough to remove . That was part of the reason for the plastic. So the fiberglass would be easy to take out if I wanted to change it later . And in case I messed up and needed to start over. the frame and floor will be intact and I can pull the fibeglass out.
If I ever get this shower pan done I can put the bathroom back together. The water lines are there needing finishing for shower and toilet.
Sink is ready except for a finish from tough tile for refinishing. I was waiting to see if I want to use it on shower pan also.Cleaned the sink with retro brite ,recipe here on the forums,.Worked great on the door and other plastic piece . Unfortunately sink needed more help it had a crack in the backsplah and a couple of cigerette burns I sanded them down, filled the crack with bondo .sanded everthing and painted it with multi use paint. color was good but I wanted a glossier finish.Tried some laquer no change .Read on the forums some people had used this tough tile stuff and were happy with it. Will give it a try.
Have pics just not in computer. will try and post some tonite.
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Old 07-16-2010, 06:12 AM   #56
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Gypsy joe
A little tip from experiance building an epoxy airplane.
The blue styrafoam home insulation makes easy to shape forms for epoxy.It works for airplanes!
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