New to it all!! - Page 2

badelson · 08-06-2007, 03:09 PM

OK, I think I know what I have to do as far as windows go. The Frames are all in good condition, so buying new windows with frames may not be necessary, I hope. I was quoted near or over $400 to replace each window(Not installed). $1000 is far to much considering the other work that needs to be done. 1/8" Lexan is about $7 a squart foot at the local glass place. No more than $50 a window and they will cut to fit frame. Now, if I can find the proper seals for the frame, this should allow me to put $$ into other areas, like safety stuff(brakes, etc.)

If anyone can see error in my thinking, please let me know.

Thanks again everyone,

**overlander63** · 08-06-2007, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by badelson

Now, if I can find the proper seals for the frame, this should allow me to put $$ into other areas, like safety stuff(brakes, etc.)

If anyone can see error in my thinking, please let me know.

Thanks again everyone,

Grab a tube of Vulkem, and seal away. It's about $7 a tube. One tube should do 2-4 windows, depending on size.

badelson · 08-06-2007, 04:44 PM

Thank you!

I will assume that vulcam sticks well to lexan.

Thanks again Overlander63 for all your help.

**overlander63** · 08-06-2007, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by badelson

Thank you!

I will assume that vulcam sticks well to lexan.

Thanks again Overlander63 for all your help.

I have found Vulkem sticks to just about anything it comes into contact with, and have the ruined clothes to prove it...

takenitez · 08-06-2007, 05:46 PM

Ira

The part # for the framed streetside wing window is #680190, which was given to me when I called the AS factory parts dept. Then I called an AS dealer who ordered this part for me.
My window seal was in bad shape which is why I didn't attempt an "on the trailer" window replacement.
Good luck with your window replacements and I wish you "leak free" fixes...

Bob

badelson · 08-06-2007, 06:44 PM

Bob, thanks for the part no.

On a different thread, I was told that lexan and plexi flex and that you can have issues with the seal. You would think that you could lay a bead of some kind of sealant to eliminate this problem. I wonder if the people that have used lexan have gone with a full 1/8" or something thinner. 1/8 inch lexan should be reasonably rigid.

Hey, what is the thickness of the original glass anyway? If you are not going to use the original rubber seal, why couldn't you go with a thicker piece of lexan?...Say 3/16", that should help with the flex issue and maybe still leave room for the previously recommended vulkam sealant. When I pulled the old rubber seals out of the frames yesterday, I could have sworn that between the glass and the seal there was at least a quarter inch to work with in the frame.

Any thoughts?

**overlander63** · 08-06-2007, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by badelson

I could have sworn that between the glass and the seal there was at least a quarter inch to work with in the frame.

Any thoughts?

That's because the original window was double pane. I currently have an aquarium between two panes of one of our wing windows.

badelson · 08-06-2007, 07:19 PM

An aquarium?! If only you had some really skinny fish to boot.

Double pane? When I pulled the old seal out of the frame and cleaned out the glass, there only seemed to be 1/8" thick glass...one pane. Please elaborate on the double pane thing. Did the double pane total out at 1/8" or were there 2 x 1/8" thick panes sandwiched.

**overlander63** · 08-06-2007, 07:24 PM

That may be one of the differences in the windows. Ours has a rounded edge top and bottom yours has a straight edge on the bottom, and rounded on top. 1969 is the only year with that configuration. It may also only be single pane glass. ours is double pane, both a little over over 1/16" thick.

badelson · 08-07-2007, 03:32 PM

Howdy everybody!

This afternoon I sat down and ordered a whole bunch of stuff from Vintage Trailer Supply. I bought a few bags of rivots, new amber/red markers, vulcam, drillbits, lenses and more. Pricing was quite reasonable.

I noticed the shaving tool for the rivots, but passed on it because of the price. I am wondering, does it really do the trick and is it worth the couple hundred?

While on the Vintage Trailer website, I noticed replacement windows for some of the 60's trailers. The windows only go up to '68. Are any of the 1968 windows compatable with the '69? Just wondering if anyone has researched this course.

Thanks again everyone for all the great info!

**overlander63** · 08-07-2007, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by badelson

While on the Vintage Trailer website, I noticed replacement windows for some of the 60's trailers. The windows only go up to '68. Are any of the 1968 windows compatable with the '69? Just wondering if anyone has researched this course.

1968 was a different body style, 1969 models were predominately about 6" wider, with a different type of window.

badelson · 08-07-2007, 05:06 PM

I kinda figured as much, about the windows. I guess it doesn't matter anyway, I am excited to try the lexan route and hope that the experience will serve me right in the future.

One thing that I found interesting, none of the distributers that I called had "complete" brake and backup light kits, just the lenses. The other day when I was inspecting brake/turn/reverse lights I noticed that all of the bulbs were coroded to the sockets. I wanted to replace the steel back box and the lens with brand new, but I guess that I'll have to try and rebuild the back boxes and bulb sockets.