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Sdmezurek · 10-15-2017, 04:46 PM

Hello..
Wanted one, found one, husband bought it..
Then we read all the fun stories about the dreaded rear sag, frame separation ect..
This makes us owner #3. Is there a way to trace original owners? To ask what may/ may not of been done repair wise? Looks like we are agreeing on a 90% total redo inside from the gaucho couch to the rear bath. Question about that rear bath, what is behind the top molded section? Has anyone redone their bath and left that there? Has anyone removed it without regret? Also, how in the words does water from the shower not permeate the side cosmetic sliding door area ??
Anyone???

dbj216 · 10-15-2017, 06:15 PM

Greetings from Colorado. Welcome to the vintage Airstream community. I think you will find these Forums very useful as you progress with your project Overlander.

I recently bought a 75 Overlander. I have yet to ascertain the condition rear cross member or frame rails. I know I have slight rear end separation. I will check it out all in due time. The interior of my trailer is in very good shape. I understand it was renovated some years ago. We will replace the "fabric" stuff as it is rather old and smelly, except for the curtains which washed up in good shape. And I need to replace several of the appliances including the fridge. My goal is a "travel ready" that is as good as a new one but much cheaper.

The interior "end caps" of the Overlander, both front and rear, are big thermomolded plastic parts with molded in overhead lockers. Behind it is likely insulation, and then the inside of the exterior aluminum. There is nothing pretty behind the molded piece. My end caps were painted by the previous owner. They don't look too bad.

You will have to attach a picture of your Overlander. Pictures are good.

David

Aviator · 10-15-2017, 06:41 PM

We are just finishing our 1970 Overlander project. Behind the endocarps is pink insulation only. We removed ours and purchased pre-drilled aluminum endocarp kits from Colin Hyde. My son and I buck riveted them and lifted them into place. If I was doing it again, I would use Olympic rivets and put it together up in place.

Belegedhel · 10-16-2017, 08:20 AM

You might be able to find the previous owners via a title search, but I don't see the point. You have to evaluate the condition the trailer is in right now. Repairs that were done by POs don't channge that floor rot and rust could have taken place in the years since then. Also, not all PO repairs are equal, the people you bought it from may have assured you that it was solid throughout, but you won't know until you dig into it.

I suspect that most people leave, or at least reinstall the molded plastic dome. This is because the alternative is to build something from scratch (or kit as described), which is a complicated undertaking.

Water permeates all kinds of things in these trailers. Your floor will rot from leaks in the shell, leaks in the window seals, leaking plumbing, and leaking joints around the shower (not to mention the water that invades from the deck of the bumper-trunk). This is part of the reason most of these 70's era trailers have rotting floors in the rear.

good luck!

Sdmezurek · 01-27-2018, 05:24 AM

Just found this comment from previous post.. thank you. We are in the process of getting in preparation for.shell off frame and floor replacement and repair. Have the gaucho and galley dismantled this far... Seeing some water staining around front of trailer but no rotten wood per say. YET.

Sdmezurek · 01-27-2018, 05:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbj216

Greetings from Colorado. Welcome to the vintage Airstream community. I think you will find these Forums very useful as you progress with your project Overlander.

I recently bought a 75 Overlander. I have yet to ascertain the condition rear cross member or frame rails. I know I have slight rear end separation. I will check it out all in due time. The interior of my trailer is in very good shape. I understand it was renovated some years ago. We will replace the "fabric" stuff as it is rather old and smelly, except for the curtains which washed up in good shape. And I need to replace several of the appliances including the fridge. My goal is a "travel ready" that is as good as a new one but much cheaper.

The interior "end caps" of the Overlander, both front and rear, are big thermomolded plastic parts with molded in overhead lockers. Behind it is likely insulation, and then the inside of the exterior aluminum. There is nothing pretty behind the molded piece. My end caps were painted by the previous owner. They don't look too bad.

You will have to attach a picture of your Overlander. Pictures are good.

David

Hi!! Yep in the process of gutting Interior for a shell off frame repair and floor replacement.. then when we get it home, the inner skins will be removed to tear out and replace insulation and wiring.

Sdmezurek · 01-27-2018, 05:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aviator

We are just finishing our 1970 Overlander project. Behind the endocarps is pink insulation only. We removed ours and purchased pre-drilled aluminum endocarp kits from Colin Hyde. My son and I buck riveted them and lifted them into place. If I was doing it again, I would use Olympic rivets and put it together up in place.

Thank you for the info.

Sdmezurek · 01-27-2018, 05:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Belegedhel

You might be able to find the previous owners via a title search, but I don't see the point. You have to evaluate the condition the trailer is in right now. Repairs that were done by POs don't channge that floor rot and rust could have taken place in the years since then. Also, not all PO repairs are equal, the people you bought it from may have assured you that it was solid throughout, but you won't know until you dig into it.

I suspect that most people leave, or at least reinstall the molded plastic dome. This is because the alternative is to build something from scratch (or kit as described), which is a complicated undertaking.

Water permeates all kinds of things in these trailers. Your floor will rot from leaks in the shell, leaks in the window seals, leaking plumbing, and leaking joints around the shower (not to mention the water that invades from the deck of the bumper-trunk). This is part of the reason most of these 70's era trailers have rotting floors in the rear.

good luck!

Thank you. Prepping for shell off repair and replacement now.

dbj216 · 01-27-2018, 06:23 PM

You are embarking on a huge project, but it can be done. I've never taken a shell (body) off but know how it is done. I've been working on my 75 Overlander this winter. I have the rear end separation repair. I've also repaired some weak spots in the rear of the frame. I replaced the rotted floor at the rear of the trailer that caused all this damage in the first place. Now I am replumbing the thing. I have new axles on order as my 43 year old ones were hard as a rock. No rubber torsion rod suspension effect at all. That helps shake the trailer apart when towing.

Start a "project" thread in the Airstream Trailer Knowledgebase in these Forums. It's fun to follow along as folks make progress on their trailers, and to learn how things were done and why. The link to my thread is listed below.

Work safe...

David

Sdmezurek · 01-27-2018, 06:34 PM

Thank you!! We just finished gutting it tonight and started ripping up the floor in the rear bathroom. Rotten to within a few inches shy of the wheel well covers all the way across.. and a soft area at the entry door. Fortunately the rest of the floor is in good condition. At least from the top. We will remove the banana skins.and belly pan and inspect from the bottom up asap. We wanted to move the rear bath to the center, but we aren't sure what to do with the bathroom molded end cap.. if we remove it we need to find a way to cover the end cap.. if we cannot come.up with a solution, we will replumb as reare bath again

dbj216 · 01-27-2018, 07:44 PM

Colin Hyde Airstream Restorations used to sell aluminum skins pre cut for the front and rear interior end caps of these vintage Airstreams. I believe they are ready to rivet into place right from the kit. That may be an option, although rather expensive I'm sure.

Center baths are handier and more common now days. Most don't have a tub, just shower only. Some have shower on one side of the aisle, and the vanity and toilet on the other. With a center bath, waste water tanks are installed closer to the axles for better balance. However I seldom tow my trailer with water in the holding tanks except 5 gallons of clean water in the black tank for slosh cleaning as I tow.

David

Sdmezurek · 01-27-2018, 07:51 PM

I'm wondering if there is such a material that can be used instead of the metal?

dbj216 · 01-28-2018, 06:09 PM

Some vintage Airstreamers have crafted end caps out of thin wood. I built a shower stall out of FRP which is a thin, flexible fiber reinforced plastic. It comes in a variety of colors and patterns. Of course Airstream just molds the end caps out of fiberglass (sixties) and then a thermoformed plastic. That is more "cost effective".

David

Sdmezurek · 01-28-2018, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbj216

Some vintage Airstreamers have crafted end caps out of thin wood. I built a shower stall out of FRP which is a thin, flexible fiber reinforced plastic. It comes in a variety of colors and patterns. Of course Airstream just molds the end caps out of fiberglass (sixties) and then a thermoformed plastic. That is more "cost effective".

David

David, do you happen to have a photo of yours we could look at? Thank you

Iansk · 01-28-2018, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aviator

We are just finishing our 1970 Overlander project. Behind the endocarps is pink insulation only. We removed ours and purchased pre-drilled aluminum endocarp kits from Colin Hyde. My son and I buck riveted them and lifted them into place. If I was doing it again, I would use Olympic rivets and put it together up in place.

I’m dying to hear more about your endocarp that you installed. Do you keep seeds in it? How do you keep it from decaying?

Auto correct, I know... but just had to.

Carry on

dbj216 · 01-28-2018, 07:37 PM

I've never removed an interior end cap. Ours is the same molded piece that came from the factory. Some previous owner painted them in place. Here is a photo of the living room end cap. I don't have a photo of the bathroom end cap. Our rear bath has molded in overhead lockers on both sides with tambor sliding doors on them. Here is a photo of the overhead locker in the bath. It has a big mirror in the center with a light over it. The last photo below shows a partial view of the rear bath down the aisle from the bedroom. It is a nice looking design from the seventies. I'm keeping it like it was. Easier. Hope this helps you out.

David

Sdmezurek · 02-25-2018, 05:38 PM

may i ask how i make a repair journal like you have? thank you

Sdmezurek · 02-25-2018, 06:12 PM

Ok lets see how this goes.
I am going to post or should I say attempt to post some photos from day one of our new adventure with out 1970 Overlander.
We bought it on a whim, I wanted it, Husband agreed

We are new to the land of AS. We have had several campers of various sizes in the past. Our hope is for this to be our last Camper.
It was all original inside and out. there was some previous repairs made by the PO . As we got it home and inspected it more and then found this site and read more,,,, we decided we needed to learn more and do more!
I will post hte photos in order of our journey with captions...