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Old 01-03-2016, 01:22 PM   #1
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Raleigh , North Carolina
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Finally took the leap. . .

I've been reading the forum for some time now and decided to look for a trailer. After searching for several months with the usual dead ends, I finally took the leap (maybe off the deep end) and hauled one 4 hours home last week.

This unit has the usual leaks: bath floor is weak, few wet spots behind cabinets, saw one drip from the center vent.

It never had an AC unit, so one of the previous owners had fab-ed a window unit, which we ripped out before hauling it down the road. Fortunately, all the windows are intact and functional, except the the one the AC unit was it. The rivets that hold the "hinge" in place broke while trying to remove the unit.

The carpet has been removed but for the most part the interior is complete and in good shape. I was told that all electronics work, however, due to where we met to look at the trailer this couldn't be verified. I have a 50 amp service to connect to but need to get an adapter for the 30 amp umbilical cord. It has had a "newer" converted installed, but I haven't looked into what brand it is yet.

The body is is OK condition with a few dents to be addressed once the interior panels are out. The only one that has me worried is on the curb side front (see pic), it is in a seam. I can deal with a not-so-perfect exterior, however I can't deal with an seam I can't seal. The clear is starting to oxidize in places so I suppose I will have the pleasure of removing that and perhaps polishing.

The belly pan will likely be replaced as well. There is a section missing under the fresh water tank (I can't explain why), but this allowed be to peak inside and it appears that while the lips holding the tank are shot, the frame is in decent condition. Of course that could change once the floor is up.

I would go on about what I have planed for it. . . but Ill take it one step at a time haha. First priority is to get a new floor in, take a ton of pics along the way, and then figure out how to seal everything. The material used on the exterior seams is going to be a pain to remove, but I will cross that bridge in time.

Happy New Year
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:09 PM   #2
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Congrats and welcome to the insanity...I mean FUN!
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Old 01-04-2016, 04:21 PM   #3
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Welcome and Congratulations !!!


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Old 01-04-2016, 05:23 PM   #4
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2013 25' Flying Cloud
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Good luck. Nice looking rig.
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Old 01-04-2016, 05:39 PM   #5
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Superior , Colorado
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Love the shape of the '70s Streamlines. Congrats!
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Old 01-05-2016, 07:08 AM   #6
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Raleigh , North Carolina
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Thanks folks. I can't wait to start tearing it apart and cleaning it up.

What is everyone using to remove the old sealant from the exterior seams? I assume the aircraft stripper would work to some extent. Which makes me think that before the interior goes back in all exterior work should be completed to insure everything is sealed properly. Is that logical?

Just trying to get my ducks in a row.
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Old 01-05-2016, 01:15 PM   #7
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1973 31' Excella 500
Calgary , Alberta
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Welcome. The pics look so much like our 73 Excella. Yours look to be better in the pics than ours. Ours is currently undergoing a complete shell off rebuild.
Have fun and don't burn yourself out by doing to much at one time.
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Old 01-05-2016, 01:21 PM   #8
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GREAT! congrats. It will love you back. I promise!
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Old 01-05-2016, 09:52 PM   #9
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1971 31' Sovereign
Temple , Texas
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Lots of work ahead, but worth the effort (IMHO). We're in the process of replacing all of the copper plumbing in our 71 Sovereign with PEX. Not fun, but badly needed.
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Old 01-06-2016, 04:45 PM   #10
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Raleigh , North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxDave View Post
Lots of work ahead, but worth the effort (IMHO). We're in the process of replacing all of the copper plumbing in our 71 Sovereign with PEX. Not fun, but badly needed.
Did you buy the fancy PEX tool or are you using the cheaper one?
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Old 01-06-2016, 11:16 PM   #11
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1971 31' Sovereign
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Did you buy the fancy PEX tool or are you using the cheaper one?
I paid about $40 for cinch / clamping tool at Lowe's. Seems to work just fine.
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Old 01-07-2016, 07:58 AM   #12
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Raleigh , North Carolina
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I think I will run PEX instead of cooper when I get to that point. Taking notes from this thread http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...-38289-65.html Id like to make everymore more serviceable once it is put together. Lots of great info (and skill) on that thread
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Old 01-09-2016, 02:01 PM   #13
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1972 27' Overlander
Denver , North Carolina
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Finally took the leap. . .

I am almost finished with my 72 after a two plus year shell on resto. Don't cheap out. Do it right the first time - replace the bath floor and c channel. Regardless of how it looks now it does need to be replaced. None of it is hard to do - just have a plan and go for it. You will learn much about using a drill to remove rivets. If something does not come apart after you removed all the rivets - you missed one or two go back and look.

Take many many pictures and save everything you will need something eventually.

Ping me if you have questions.



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Old 01-10-2016, 08:32 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by mccrosti View Post
I am almost finished with my 72 after a two plus year shell on resto. Don't cheap out. Do it right the first time - replace the bath floor and c channel. Regardless of how it looks now it does need to be replaced. None of it is hard to do - just have a plan and go for it. You will learn much about using a drill to remove rivets. If something does not come apart after you removed all the rivets - you missed one or two go back and look.

Take many many pictures and save everything you will need something eventually.

Ping me if you have questions.



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Thanks for the input. I'm formulating my plan of attack now. I'd like to secure a shelter for the trailer before I dig in but that may be something I have to keep my eye out for as I work. I'm sure I'll be pestering you with questions before too long haha
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Old 01-10-2016, 09:02 PM   #15
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1967 28' Ambassador
1964 19' Globetrotter
1960 24' Tradewind
Edgewood , Kentucky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxDave View Post
I paid about $40 for cinch / clamping tool at Lowe's. Seems to work just fine.
There is a reason why that method is the cheaper of the two.... More prone to leaks. With the crimping tool you get a uniform reduction around the ring sealing the barbed end better. With the cinch rings you are essentially putting hose clamps that are meant for it but certainly do not distribute the force equally. Another disadvantage to cinch rings are that you do not have a reduction gauge to ensure the proper amount of reduction, more reduction is actually bad also. It will begin to reduce the wall thickness and will tear near the ring when slightly bent. The crimping tool comes with a "go / no-go" gauge. That being said, you can use either tool, but like the ole' saying goes "you get what you pay for".

If your looking for convenience and money is not an option maybe Sharkbite fittings are the way to go. Just slip them on and your done, no reducing needed.
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