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Old 08-04-2013, 01:08 PM   #21
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What *IS* it with lazy POs and garden hose plumbing repairs?!?! I guess the same people who are too lazy to winterize when it's needed are the ones likely to patch up the resulting split copper with garden hose...
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Old 08-04-2013, 07:10 PM   #22
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OK day three is done and so is the gutting. It looks much larger when empty, but you can also see the floor rot (Ugh). It's now safely in our back yard. Tomorrow begins work on the gantry for the shell lift. I will also be waiting patiently (not) for my shipment from Vintage Trailer Supply so that rivet removal may commence.
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:58 PM   #23
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Another day and a bit more accomplished. I started removing items from the roof. First the air-conditioner the, a couple of vents.

There are those who say they "just don't build Airstreams like the used to" from what I have seen looking at the 1970 and our 1997, it is a correct statement. On the 1970 Airstream used 59 (yes, I did count each one) screws to attach the Armstrong A/C to the roof. That is 59 leaky little holes when the job could have been just as securely accomplished with 12 screws and 47 fewer holes! That got me looking around at the roof and sides. The exterior skin rivets are spaced approximately 2 inches apart. That is much closer than on the '97. Does more rivets equal better, or just more holes?

The angled plumbing vents look cool, but I don't care for the lack of a cap mechanism leaving the top open to the weather, and high leak point. The floor is rotten where both of the vent stacks reach the point of highest drip probability.
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:15 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aviator View Post
Another day and a bit more accomplished. I started removing items from the roof. First the air-conditioner the, a couple of vents.

There are those who say they "just don't build Airstreams like the used to" from what I have seen looking at the 1970 and our 1997, it is a correct statement. On the 1970 Airstream used 59 (yes, I did count each one) screws to attach the Armstrong A/C to the roof. That is 59 leaky little holes when the job could have been just as securely accomplished with 12 screws and 47 fewer holes! That got me looking around at the roof and sides. The exterior skin rivets are spaced approximately 2 inches apart. That is much closer than on the '97. Does more rivets equal better, or just more holes?

The angled plumbing vents look cool, but I don't care for the lack of a cap mechanism leaving the top open to the weather, and high leak point. The floor is rotten where both of the vent stacks reach the point of highest drip probability.

Hi Craig
Lili told me about the thread
Ill be watching with interest
Ive replaced the plumbing now Ive floor rot sort when we return in October
Ill be interested to see how you get on
rgds From England
Hans
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:14 PM   #25
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IMHO, leaks which lead to floor rot are the mother of all trailer evils. Followed closely by PO's who do half A$$ed repairs.
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:57 PM   #26
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I have been following your thread. I have increased the rivet count on my trailer so the spacing is in between .750" and 1.00". I have also replaced all the stringers and attached then to the ribs. I designed some new plumbing vents that do not leak. I am most likely one of the few people that can claim "my trailer does not leak"
Check out my thread below
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:30 PM   #27
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Thanks, I have been following your improvements as well, and will use a lot of them! I hope I develop half of you skill
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:19 PM   #28
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The first couple of days went really fast with a lot to visually show for it. Yesterday was more of a washout with 2+" of rain in the morning. Even thought the floor is all ready rotted in many places, I still need it for a pattern. Garbage bags now are in place of the windows to keep some of the water out, but it is still leaking prodigiously between the skins through the 59 screw holes in the roof.

Rather than start on the inside, I decided to work on the belly today. It was a bit it was slow going taking most of the day just to remove the fresh water tank. about 8 of the bolts broke off and will need to be drilled out later. Fortunately I leaned a lesson from dropping the tank on our other trailer and stayed out from under this one which turned out to be full and thus weighed several hundred pounds more then anticipated.
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Old 08-10-2013, 02:03 AM   #29
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IMHO, leaks which lead to floor rot are the mother of all trailer evils. Followed closely by PO's who do half A$$ed repairs.
Hi Craig
This is my question if you can assist..
How does the floor.. the chassis.. and the outer shell come together ?can you pull the floor to replace it without affecting the joint between the body shell and the chassis..ours is a 280 Motorhome but perhaps its the
same principle ..Kind Rgds
Hx1 [lovingly typed by number 1 humble secretary]


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Old 08-10-2013, 07:29 AM   #30
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I am unsure how it works on the motorhome. On the trailer, the the floor is bolted to the frame in many places across the entire expanse of floor. At the edges, there is a "C" shaped metal piece which the floor fits into. There are also bolts through this, and the shell is riveted to the outside edge of the "C"

This thread has a good description along with photo's of it: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ent-24386.html

Cheers
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Old 08-10-2013, 03:21 PM   #31
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Looking great, Craig! We especially love the generator. Waaaay cool.
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Old 08-10-2013, 03:44 PM   #32
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I like the concept, but didn't like the installation. It is now on its way to desert27 to see if it works in his application.
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Old 08-10-2013, 03:47 PM   #33
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Today was spent cleaning window and door frames of the old weather stripping and getting ready for new. I got the windows out without any trouble, but if anyone knows the trick for putting them back in, please share it! I managed to get the smaller two in, but just can't get the middle to hook into the rail.

I also got the remaining two stabilizers off. Of the four, one is bent, one is broken, and I may be able to combine parts and end up with two usable ones.

I am really dreading the rest of the belly pan work, but will be relieved when it is over. It will also let me know how much frame work needs to be done.
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Old 08-10-2013, 04:34 PM   #34
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Shoutout and big thanks to Mike (desertair27) for the phone call and key to really pushing (hard) on the center part of the long windows in order to get them into the track.

THANKS it worked!
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Old 08-10-2013, 05:38 PM   #35
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Isn't Airforums great?! You are making such terrific progress, Craig. We are feeling so envious! The only complaint we have with ours is that there are no more projects left to do. It is absolutely perfect for our family now. Guess we really need another project! You are having some serious fun! Have you figured out how and where to put a dishwasher in? We would be seriously envious if your had both a generator AND a dishwasher! Nice progress! We can't wait to see it in person!!! When can we?
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:06 PM   #36
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Anytime you guys want to come over. We will still be camping in the Jumbo petite for some time. What happened with the one you looked at last rally?
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:08 PM   #37
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Well, still seeing if there's any chance on that one. We can't wait to see your "new" one!
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Old 08-11-2013, 04:13 PM   #38
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Today was a good day for progress. I bought a second aluminum propane tank from one of our fellow Airforum members. Thank you, David.

The front half of the belly pan came off as well as the lower trim strips. I am sure thankful the paper wasp nest was unoccupied. The idea of being puffed up after 10000 wasp stings is not a pleasant thought!

From what I can see in the front of the frame it is mostly surface rust that should respond well to sand blasting and POR15. Tomorrow I hope to get the back half off and clean off the pink stuff for a good evaluation.
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Old 08-11-2013, 04:16 PM   #39
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Shoutout and big thanks to Mike (desertair27) for the phone call and key to really pushing (hard) on the center part of the long windows in order to get them into the track.

THANKS it worked!
Always happy to help! Glad it worked.
Mike
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Old 08-11-2013, 04:32 PM   #40
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You are flyin' along...

I hate that nasty mashed up mess that fiberglass makes in a belly pan.

I just noticed that we both have an Overlander and a 34'.
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