Don't know if you've seen it, but there is a series on DIY showing a 70s-ish Overlander restoration. It was very helpful to us and they re-air it quite a bit.
I agree, this series is really interesting, the guy does a pretty complete re-do of a "1970 Overlander International Land Yacht" as he describes it in one episode, although he never mentions the length. Looks like a 27' to me. It's a rear bath model.
The next airing is July 31, apparently.
He points out that it's the last year for wood cabinets, and shows some nice solutions for refinishing them and dealing with the old door hardware. He makes new tambour doors, covers walls and kitchen backsplash with aluminum which he glues and rivets.
Slickest décor trick is the aluminum countertop he glues in, then covers with glass that he etches the show logo into. Yep, he does all this stuff on the show.
Did a real nice red ebony boomerang laminate countertop that really worked with the yellow that he painted some of the walls.
Anyway, if you can't wait, it's on YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. if you do a search for "Airstream restoration". Each segement seem to have 4 sub-segment, and I'm not sure they're all there, but I gotta hand it to the TV personality, he does a good job, and fast.
Vernon, I just spent the past hour getting caught up on the hunting shack. You are doing a fine job and you should be very proud of yourself. A couple of things I wanted to say...
A)Ace Hardware rocks, I do not feel anymore needs to be said on that cause if you do not understand why I say that you never will understand.
B) Folks in Texas are great.. $40 for straightening out the banana wraps....
C)Dan from ODM was hitting on an important aspect of the structure. As many know the structure is inherently weak as individual components, but together is is very strong. There was discussion of the fact that the cross-member and outrigger are lined up with a rib. Even more important is that little piece of angle iron next to the rib.
It ties the rib, skin, floor, belly pan, and frame all together. Make sure you get all that tied back together. At first I was very confused by this piece of rusty metal and I dismissed it as a home spun repair. It was not until I was putting things back together that I realized the importance of this connection point. I have not done the front half yet, but suspect that a similar thing exists at the forward ribs. The big plate up front also ties everything into one unit.
D) Have some BBQ for me. Marcus has only gone once and we just do not know how to fix it right up here in Maryland.
I'll tell ya lately polishing hasn't been a party in this intense Texas summer heat. Vernon and Marcus have the right idea sticking close to water. I'm working sloooooowly either very early in the day or very late when the sun isn't so strong. So the polish party should probably happen when it's about 20 degrees cooler! Either way I say we bait Frank to join the polish party with some of Marcus' BBQ!
Hopefully axles are due in this week so I might be sliding a new frame back into place soon which will probably keep me busy until then. Meanwhile, Vernon, I'll be right where you are tubing on the Guadalupe in a couple weeks. Be sure and look for cool RV parks on the river while you're there!
__________________
Todd
“Complications arose, ensued, were overcome...savvy?”
Always a good time tubin' on the Guadalupe. How's the river level and flow rate? I was worried that the drought might be affecting the river.
The flow is about 250 cft/sec. Not great but I have seen it worse. The Rainbow Trout Club has made a agreement with the River Authority to keep it at 250 cft minimum (except during drought conditions) so that the water stays cool enough for the trout to live as far down as the 3rd crossing.
Todd, we have been staying at River Road Campgrounds for the last 15-20 yrs. They have H2O and elect. No sewer at campsights but they do have a dump station. We like it because it is a good place to exit the river after a good long float.
Even more important is that little piece of angle iron next to the rib. Attachment 62963
It ties the rib, skin, floor, belly pan, and frame all together. Make sure you get all that tied back together. At first I was very confused by this piece of rusty metal and I dismissed it as a home spun repair. It was not until I was putting things back together that I realized the importance of this connection point. I have not done the front half yet, but suspect that a similar thing exists at the forward ribs.
I noticed on at least one thread (I think it was Kip's) that these angle clips were installed. Mine did not have any originally and therefore there was no real connection between the ribs and the bottom channel. I purchased some aluminum angle and plan on installing them however. Thanks for the reminder!
I celebrated the Fourth by putting the last coat of POR-15 on the front end of my frame. I had run out and had to order another quart from VTS. They sent me gray instead of the black I had been using but that actually made my second coating easier. Much easier to see where you hadn't been.
The belly pan sheet directly above the spare tire area was very corroded where it had been in contact with the frame.
Fortunately it was longer than necessary so I was able to trim off 1-1/2" from that end and therefore slid it forward that far. It will leave some unused poprivet holes but I will plug them with rivets. I don't know if it will help future corrosion but I primed it as well.
I decided to try something new with my insulation. I stapled it to the bottom of my front sheet with Monel SS staples prior to install it. It worked pretty good. I really did not have a choice as the above sheet would have prevented installation afterward.
This afternoon I caught a break at my store and was able to sneak out and put the front most sheet in. (Hope that I don't get fired!) Four down and two to go!
Hopefully if the weather holds out my wife and I will be able to put those last two sheets in tomorrow. We have had scattered showers for the last several days and there is no relief in sight.
On both of the remaining sheets I will need to split them and put a splice board in. I am a little concerned if there will be enough room between the subfloor and the freshwater tank to put a splice board. I'll have to do some measuring unless someone here has the answer. My bet would be that someone does.
I measured the thickness of my freshwater tank at 5-1/4" empty. I noticed when I filled in outside for testing that it tended to swell upward some from its empty thickness. With the 1" plywood that goes underneath it I only have 5-1/2" left over to the top of the frame so I do not think that I will be able to put the spice board in. I know it is not as strong but do you see any reason that I could not splice that one piece of subfloor on top of the frame? I will fasten it down with the self-drilling floor repair screws that I purchased from VTS.
I really do not have a choice. BTW, this splice would end up just in front of the wheel wells and either being under the gally cabinet or under the reefer. I am not sure which would be better.
Why do you have to splice it? I just slowly and gently popped mine in. The shell can slide and move to make it easier. I found many putty knives between the "J" channel and the plywood helped guide it in. Sorry I do not have better pictures, but in these you see I got one corner set
then used a hammer to tap it into place.
It literally went pop when it dropped in to place.
I have been trying to keep the shell straight using braces and temporary blocks with bolts at the outriggers. Did you have any trouble getting your shell back straight?
It just went pop. There was a large dent on the rear curb side corner and most of it actually popped out too when the shell was back in its proper location. I had the entire rear wagging like a dog tail as a joke to a visitor... Don't be afraid to move it around if you need, that is part of the design factor.
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