That's what I was thinking. It looks like you're on the right track. Just trying to give you a couple of visuals from later years. It almost looks like Airstream figured out a couple of years down the road the same thing you have discovered. Namely, "don't leave wooden floor parts open to the elements".
Thanks. At least I know that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Now back to cleaning my walls (again). Trying to get ready to paint those dang vinyl walls.
Jim
That will be my next project after replacing a couple of outside panels. I keep up with your project and I like my position being a little (or a lot) behind you!
I am still tinkering around for a possible solution to the seepage problems on Airstream tailgates due to ponding. I mentioned this on a previous thread.
This morning I played around with some light guage (.0092") aluminum flashing. I know it looks sort of crude but it gave me hopes that it was at least possible to fabricate some sort of flashing at a curved angle. Even though this attempt has wringles in the metal I think it would still work if worked up underneath the outer skin or attached to the outside with Vulkem.
I would then overlay it with another piece of .040 aluminum (represented by the lumber in the following picture) and the rest would be covered by the rub rail. Therefore none of the flashing would be visible.
I have the bottom of the rear center skin removed for replacement so now would be a good time to install this.
Seems to me that this would be better than just using Vulken as the manufacturer did. I may take my poor attempt to my local sheet metal man and see if he might be able to form a better piece.
It seems to me that either Malconium or Zeppelinium (it was one of the "iums") discussed this at great length in a thread, but now I can't find it using the Search function. As I recall, one solution was similar to yours, but there might have been other approaches as well.
Hey Vernon, good to see you're still at it............
Stay cool, it's brutal out there!
-Marcus
Hey Marcus,
Yea I am still at it (but at a little slower pace!). Between the 100 deg. temps and tropical storm Eduord I have been doing things that can be moved inside my store. I have cleaned up and put new gaskets on half my windows. Because of the placement of my cover poles I am unable to remove the others at this time. Other than that I have not done much but planning. I do try to do something constructive every day (if I can count reading the forums as being constructive ).
My next project needs to be replacing the corner outside skins but I just can't make myself get out in the heat to drill the old ones out and fit the new ones in. That reflection off the aluminum is a real killer.
I am still tinkering around for a possible solution to the seepage problems on Airstream tailgates due to ponding. I mentioned this on a previous thread.
This morning I played around with some light guage (.0092") aluminum flashing. I know it looks sort of crude but it gave me hopes that it was at least possible to fabricate some sort of flashing at a curved angle. Even though this attempt has wringles in the metal I think it would still work if worked up underneath the outer skin or attached to the outside with Vulkem.
I would then overlay it with another piece of .040 aluminum (represented by the lumber in the following picture) and the rest would be covered by the rub rail. Therefore none of the flashing would be visible.
I have the bottom of the rear center skin removed for replacement so now would be a good time to install this.
Seems to me that this would be better than just using Vulken as the manufacturer did. I may take my poor attempt to my local sheet metal man and see if he might be able to form a better piece.
Any new thoughts on this application?
Am I trying too hard to reinvent the wheel?
You are really close. Make two forming blocks from plywood with the curve that you want cut in. Cut a small radius (1/8") on the edge of one piece. Sandwich the aluminum between the the two pieces of plywood making sure that the aluminum is next to the radius on the one sheet amd move the non radius piece of ply away from the other by 1/8", and bolt or clamp it all together. Trim the aluminum off to the height of the flange you want, and file the edge smooth to prevent cracking. Now using a mallet, wooden blocks, etc, roll the aluminum around the flanged piece of plywood. Once the flange is around the corner planish it flat to the edge of the plywood. Use softer aluminum for this as it will not work with tempered aluminum unless annealed.
Make two forming blocks from plywood with the curve that you want cut in. Cut a small radius (1/8") on the edge of one piece. Sandwich the aluminum between the the two pieces of plywood making sure that the aluminum is next to the radius on the one sheet amd move the non radius piece of ply away from the other by 1/8", and bolt or clamp it all together. Trim the aluminum off to the height of the flange you want, and file the edge smooth to prevent cracking. Now using a mallet, wooden blocks, etc, roll the aluminum around the flanged piece of plywood. Once the flange is around the corner planish it flat to the edge of the plywood. Use softer aluminum for this as it will not work with tempered aluminum unless annealed.
Kip
Thanks Kip,
I will give it a try.
That is sort of what I attempted the first time but I will try to do it better on my next attempt. I did not radius to edge which was probably part of my problem and I only had one forming block made (the one in the picture on the tailgate). I used a straight board on the other side but I will cut it also the next time. I can't find any information on the type of aluminum that the flashing is made of. It is thin enough that I hope it will bend without cracking. I only had one small puncture on my first attempt and that was a place that had wrinkled. Also I will need to cut my inside forming board at a slight angle as the rear wall is not perpendicular to the ground and therefore the angle needs to be more than a 90 deg. bend.
I caught a little break today from the SE Texas heat due to clouds. I was able to drill out and remove the front curb side panel. It was a bigger chore than I anticipated - hidden flush rivets and lots of Vulkem to cut out. But I got it out. I had to remove the curved window also but it needs to have its glass replaced anyway and I removed the curved rib in the middle of the panel. I will fabricate a new straight one to replace it per Kip's advice.
I cut a replacement sheet and trial fitted it but then it started to rain. So I quickly re-attached the old sheet and window with a few Clecos. I have it under a canopy so that should keep it dry. Maybe I will get a break tomorrow so I can get the panel replaced. Then I will have to do the other side.
It was a very tight fit but we were able to put the "Silver Belly" inside my warehouse. We had to remove the A/C to clear the top. We put all the cabinets, interior skins and belly pan inside the trailer.
Thanks guys. We are about 45 ft. elevation but we are only 15-20 miles inland (north) from the Galveston Bay system. Winds in our area are only projected to be about 80 mph but an empty Airstream might get bounched around. However I was most concerned about flying debris. I have my house and business boarded up and I feel better with my Airstream indoors.
Just a quick update. I just got power back on at my hardware store. Still no power at home. We made it through the storm okay however with minimal damage (none to the Airstream!).
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So I quickly re-attached the old sheet and window with a few Clecos. I have it under a canopy so that should keep it dry. Maybe I will get a break tomorrow so I can get the panel replaced. Then I will have to do the other side.
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