Steve,
I will obviously move a little farther down the food chain when you pull that super looking rig into Branson for our rally in October. That's OK though. I am really happy you ended up with such a neat, and functional, rig for your purposes. I'll have my sunglasses on for the glare.
Nice day on Friday
Collin waits with patience
Lights on!
Airstreams...flamingos...clothesline pins.....tres chic!
I added a 12 volt television in the bedroom area.
Slick little flamingo lights for the inside window (Hard to see clearly)
Here is an entry for scary tow setup. Anyone see anything wrong here?
Found a few issues out with the trailer. The door won't close properly unless we slam it extremely hard. The black water sensor reads full all of the time whether it is ful or empty, and we found a small leak that lets water under the shower wall due to some bad caulking. Guess we shall see what happens next time.
Using the convection microwave wasn't that bad at all, but it did heat the trailer up very quickly. We had the AC off just to ensure we didn't trip the breaker from exceeding 30 Amps. We chose the mid range of the cooking times, and slightly burned the bottom, so we will go with the minimum time suggested on our next attempt.
Way to go Steve, Amy & Collin! Congrats to Collin on the promotion -- Major Trouble. Steve ... a new Bambi I understand. But do I see a new Road Trip grill? Congrats -- you da Man!
Steve-O -- The door mechanisms tend to come under-lubed from the factory. Get a can of LPS-1 (all silicone, no oil to attract dust -- don't go with LPS-3!), open the door, and spray this randomly around the mechanism. See 2005 25'SS Door sticking. It'll make a world of difference, buddy!
Found a few issues out with the trailer. The door won't close properly unless we slam it extremely hard. The black water sensor reads full all of the time whether it is ful or empty, and we found a small leak that lets water under the shower wall due to some bad caulking. Guess we shall see what happens next time.
Using the convection microwave wasn't that bad at all, but it did heat the trailer up very quickly. We had the AC off just to ensure we didn't trip the breaker from exceeding 30 Amps. We chose the mid range of the cooking times, and slightly burned the bottom, so we will go with the minimum time suggested on our next attempt.
Steve
Just a quick thought. Did you check how much pressure you had on the stabilizer jacks? If you crank them down to the point that they start raising the trailer, you torque the frame thus causing a door opening or closing issue.
Black water sensor may be a panel calibration issue. You may need to get this done (assuming you are still under Airstream warranty). If you are out of Airstream warranty, here is the link to the website for Catcon who produces the panels. http://www.catconproducts.com/manual...itorManual.PDF
Note the panel is under 5 year warranty from Catcon.
Leaks from the shower??? What else is new. I think this is the bane of all new Airstream's. I've had two new trailers each exhibiting the same problem in the same area. I assume the water is showing up somewhere under the shower door? The good news is that it can be fixed. The bad news is that it sometimes takes a couple of visits to finally find the problem.
Jack
__________________
Jack Canavera
STL Mo. AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500,'08 Vespa GTS 250
Didn't know you could check the stabilizer jack pressure, but when I lowered them down I just turned tight enough to make it snug. No lifting of the trailer. As for the door, it opens just fine, but to securely close it, I have to slam it VERY hard. The shower will be caulked later this weekend at home to try and correct the issue. For the sensor, I believe the PO was using NON RV toilet paper and some is stuck to the sensor. Gene is supposed to be sending me some cleaner for it, but won't use it till Branson Rally.
Bob, I liked your Road Trip way better than mine so I sold my other one for $150 and got this one on clearance for $156.
Didn't know you could check the stabilizer jack pressure, but when I lowered them down I just turned tight enough to make it snug. No lifting of the trailer. As for the door, it opens just fine, but to securely close it, I have to slam it VERY hard. The shower will be caulked later this weekend at home to try and correct the issue. For the sensor, I believe the PO was using NON RV toilet paper and some is stuck to the sensor. Gene is supposed to be sending me some cleaner for it, but won't use it till Branson Rally.
Bob, I liked your Road Trip way better than mine so I sold my other one for $150 and got this one on clearance for $156.
Steve
I just know that in some cases where folks have complained about this, I've found that some stabilizers were cranked down a little too much. If you have checked that already, then probably that's not the problem.
Regarding the tank issue I guess the question is what type of system panel do you have? If it's like the Catco model in the calibration link I posted, there are no sensors inside the tank. They are mounted externally so cleaning the tank internally will have no effect. Those sensors work on an entirely different principal and the debris in the tank has no effect on them. I'm assuming that by 2005 Airstream was using the Catco panel in all of their trailers.
The old style with the sensors mounted inside was prone to bad readings, and the cleaner fix is only temporary. Up until my '04 Classic I've never owned a travel trailer where the black tank sensor worked properly over the course of a season. It's just about impossible to keep the walls of the tank clean which the old sensor is attached to. Thankfully most folks don't need to use that panel for black water levels. The eyeball sensor looking straight down the toilet is the most accurate measurement tool.
Jack
__________________
Jack Canavera
STL Mo. AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500,'08 Vespa GTS 250
If it's like the Catco model in the calibration link I posted, there are no sensors inside the tank...Those sensors work on an entirely different principal and the debris in the tank has no effect on them....Jack
these micro pulse sensors actually screw INTO a hole in the tank or lower drain tubes...
so technically the sensor part IS inside the tank and makes contact with the fluid.
they give an estimate of fill level hydrostatically...
basically the column of water concept.
in theory debris would have to be hard or covering the opening for the sensor to foul...
regardless they are well known for being way off, needing recalibration or replacement.
many threads on 'micro pulse' here and the pdf manual linked has the calibration proceedure near the end....
but it is a time consuming pia to do and a bit tricky....
a perfect event for a rally with lots of help...
cheers
2air'
__________________ all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.johnson
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
Quick Links
Here's to maiden voyages 
In spite of your "issues", betcha loved, didn't you. 
Steve ... a new Bambi I understand. But do I see a new Road Trip grill? Congrats -- you da Man!
Linear Mode
