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Pahaska · 03-06-2007, 10:04 AM

I have a wide-screen laptop that I keep set up on the fold-out writing table when we are stationary for more than a day. Unfortunately, the laptop takes up most of the table and there is very little room to use the mouse (I hate the touch pad on the laptop).

I noticed that the top of the chair storage had a large overlap that could be easily reduced to give me more mouse room. When we returned Sunday from our 2 weeks on the road to Big Bend, I removed the writing table and today I disassembled the table and used my band saw to reduce the width of the cabinet top by a little over 1". Not much, but any extra space is welcome.

I had to cut a small notch on the upright at the door end to gain the space. I couldn't believe how many staples were used to attach the two 3/4" square strips where the cabinet is attached to the wall. A few blows with a dead-blow hammer was all it took to knock the strips loose. I hammered the staples flat and used screws to attach the first strip and then used my pneumatic nailer through both strips to attach them securely to the cabinet top. Certainly as strong or stronger than the original.

The laminate on top of the writing table shows a bit more now, but that doesn't matter since I'm going to replace the laminate table with a solid oak table in the very near future and I will be happy to have the wood table edge show. I think the present laminated table looks terribly cheap and I can gain a little more table width and length when I build the new wood table.

Before I permanently replace the table, I want to install a doorbell (standard on the current models).

Pahaska · 03-07-2007, 08:43 AM

I bought the neat little doorbell button surround that is on the current Classics (don't di it; the price will curl your hair!), a lighted button, and a bell. So far, I have the button mounted and wires run to the forward end of the writing table housing where I have installed the bell itself.

The chairs do not reach to the extreme forward end of the table housing, and I will install a wood block in there to protect the bell. The partly covered location of the bell should help prevent it from being too loud in the confines of the trailer.

I still have to route the wires to the nearest source of 12v power. I intend to put in a toggle switch in the 12v circuit to turn off the lighted button when the trailer is not in use or we are boondocking.

richg · 03-07-2007, 09:16 AM

How do you attach those mods to the walls?? Do you just use sheet metal screws into the alum ( which I understand is on both sides of the metal studs.
Rich G

Pahaska · 03-07-2007, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richg

How do you attach those mods to the walls?? Do you just use sheet metal screws into the alum ( which I understand is on both sides of the metal studs.
Rich G

The button snaps into a 5/8" hole drilled in the outer skin. The wires are led through an insulated hole in the inner skin, through a self-stick plastic cable way stuck inside the top of the writing table box, to the front end of the writing table box. The bell is mounted inside the wood front face of the writing table box.

As long as you don't directly hit a rib, it is easy to put screws into the inner skin. It takes a pre-drilled hole if you are using a screwdriver, but if you are using a power driver, the screw goes through the soft aluminum quite easily.

Pahaska · 03-11-2007, 02:16 PM

We now travel with 2 cats and the new cat is a "hider". We had to dig her out from behind the converter, under the couch, several times. and we ended up on the last trip with all of our pillows stuffed behind the couch to keep her out of there.

This morning, I temporarily removed the 2 bins at the ends of the couch and brought them home for modification. They came out easily with the removal of about 6 screws each. I installed 3/4" square poplar strips 12" from the floor along the couch side of the bins. On these strips, I screwed bamboo flooring left over from the last trailer to make a shelf that reaches toward the couch frame. I curved the forward end of the strips to match the trailer curvature. A kitten could still get under the couch, but I dare any grown cat to get in there.

In addition, I replaced the 12" drawer slides under the couch with 18" slides. I had done this on my last trailer, also. This easy mod ($15) gives access to a lot of unused space between the battery boxes. In there, we keep bulky, but seldom-used things like our awning lights there in plastic bags. The extra slide length makes it easy to access the space.

Roadtoaster · 03-28-2007, 08:35 AM

John, I follow this thread closely for the obvious reason.

The wall cabinet just above the bathroom vanity (not the upper mirror cabinet) was getting in the way when I brushed my teeth. My bald head was getting bumped a lot!! So, I took it down and split it in half vertically. Re-mounted the right half without modification. Reduced the depth of the left side (which is directly over the sink) by 2 inches and re-mounted it. Lost some storage but no more head bumping

and it looks good. I'm at work so I don't have any pics to post.

Two remaining major projects are to convert the queen to twins and "wall in" the sink/toilet area. Did a mock up with cardboard and like the way it feels. I will remove the bedroom sliding door and us it for the door to the toilet area. I think some of the other floor plans have a very similar setup to this.

Greg

Pahaska · 03-28-2007, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ptrvr

John, I follow this thread closely for the obvious reason.

The wall cabinet just above the bathroom vanity (not the upper mirror cabinet) was getting in the way when I brushed my teeth. My bald head was getting bumped a lot!! So, I took it down and split it in half vertically. Re-mounted the right half without modification. Reduced the depth of the left side (which is directly over the sink) by 2 inches and re-mounted it. Lost some storage but no more head bumping

and it looks good. I'm at work so I don't have any pics to post.

Two remaining major projects are to convert the queen to twins and "wall in" the sink/toilet area. Did a mock up with cardboard and like the way it feels. I will remove the bedroom sliding door and us it for the door to the toilet area. I think some of the other floor plans have a very similar setup to this.

Greg

Interesting mod on the cabinet over the sink, I also have to be wary when brushing my teeth, but we couldn't possibly spare the cabinet space. I installed a partition between the 2 cabinet halves to keep my wife's stuff out of my end. By the time I store electric razor, electric toothbrush, deodorant, toothpaste, and my medicines, there isn't any space left.

I'm surprised that you want to box in the toilet and sink. The big, walk-thru bathroom is our favorite feature of this model trailer. Besides, we have room for the cat box in front of the shower that wouldn't be feasible without the walk-thru feature.

To each his/her own on the queen vs twins, but I much prefer the queen. Converting will leave you with very little outside storage.

wheel interested · 03-28-2007, 11:56 AM

Greg we have a hinged door on the bathroom and like it. It is tighter when closed but with it opening out towards the main part of the Airstream we can leave it opened up to the bedroom too. I like not seeing the toilet when we are not using it, but as John says it makes the space much smaller than the pass through baths. However I close the bedroom shades and the door makes it's own divider to make the bedroom shower and toilet and sink area one private area while in use. In fact if we put a strip of wood on the opposite wall with a door jamb we could forego Airstreams folding screens and have a real two way door.

(Now I have to tease you...) Maybe it's because I am a woman, but you can stand upright and look in the mirror while you brush your teeth and get to be a better long distance spitter, then you won't hit your head.

Roadtoaster · 03-28-2007, 12:09 PM

Actually I won't have to give up any outside storage as my bed head is on the street side, so I will retain that storage with the twins plus much more "walking around" room. I actually checked with the factory for the cost to add a rear and curbside access door as part of my change over. $1,200 +. I decided to pass.

Pretty funny Carol. Never though of spitting. I'll try that this weekend and see how I do

. If I don't post any next week, you may assume my wife beat the **** out of me for messing up her bathroom!

Greg

Pahaska · 06-03-2007, 03:02 PM

I had been admiring the doorbells on the 2007 models and decided to add one to my trailer.

My first mistake was to order the neat medalian that surrounds the button on the 2007 trailers. Fortunately, the dealer let me have it at their cost, but it still cost about 5 times too much. It does look good, though.

I drilled the hole in the outside wall for the button and a slightly lower hole inside that is concealed by the folding writing table.

I found a source on the net for a nice battery-operated chime and it is a very nice unit that uses 4 C-cell batteries, The batteries should last their shelf life.

I used a piece of self-adhesive white plastic cable lead from Ace hardware to go from the writing table top up to the chime unit. This allowed me to conceal the chime unit behind the curtains, between the windows without any exposed wires.

The adhesive on the cable lead doesn't stick well to the fuzzy walls, so I cut it down to flat tabs on each end that are trapped behind the chime unit and the writing table. The lead is short enough that it is firmly held in place. The wires are small enough that they are simply trapped against the fuzzy walls where they go behind the chime unit and the writing table.

The sound opening in the chime unit is exposed between the wall and the curtain so it is not muffled by the curtain unless the curtain is drawn, which is very seldom.

I had just finished hooking it up this morning when a friend stopped by to check his trailer and my bell was actually used ten minutes after I attached the last wire.

Pahaska · 06-03-2007, 03:10 PM

You may notice in the photo in the preceding post that I replaced the laminate writing table with a real wood table. I have never liked the appearance of the laminate table tops; I think they look cheap!

I also made a new real wood folding counter extension to replace the laminate extension. Since we use the extension only for the coffee maker, I reduced the width by about 1 3/4" so that it doesn't stick out into the doorway as far when it is open. This also makes the magazine rack below the extension a lot more accessible.

Pahaska · 06-03-2007, 03:16 PM

While I was at it, I reduced the width of the top of the writing table box by over an inch. Doesn't seem like much, but it is that much more room on the table to operate my mouse when I use the table for my wide-screen laptop.

**Stefrobrts** · 06-03-2007, 03:47 PM

John, you do such a fine job with all your modifications! I'd love to be the next owner of your trailer - it's better than new when you're done with it!

SilverToy · 06-04-2007, 02:55 PM

Stef -

Sorry to inform you, but the line for 1st dibs on John's trailer starts BEHIND me..... then again, I'm like #50 something, according to the slip in my hand, so my chance is only slightly better than yours... still!

John - keep up the terrific mods, and the awesome documentation of it all.

Saw someone ask about 'pimp-ing' their AS... here is the thread for them!!! All great, practical and easy to impliment things that really improve the livability and usefullness of an already good product.... Does it get any better?

Axel
SilverToy

Pahaska · 06-14-2007, 02:17 PM

After blowing a Marathon at Big Bend and my friends collectively blowing about 10 Marathons over the last year or so, my steed is now shod with 4 Maxxis E-rated tires. I had put 2 Maxxis on last month and 2 more on yesterday. Just in time for about 3000 hot-weather miles.

I found that inflated at 65#, the Maxxis run a couple of degrees hotter than the much more flexible D-rated Marathons, but not enough hotter to cause concern. I'm going to run the E-rated Maxxis at 70# in hot weather and I expect about the same tire temperatures as the Marathons at 65#. I could run the Maxxis at even higher pressures, but 70# is my compromise between ride quality and tire heating.

Pahaska · 07-18-2007, 01:14 PM

We have returned after 2500 trouble-free miles on the new Maxxis E-rated tires.

I ran at 70# as a compromise between ride and tire heating. My infra-red thermometer told me that the tires were running at very low temperatures.

I have recovered a feeling of confidence in my tires that I had lost with the Marathons.

Pahaska · 07-18-2007, 01:31 PM

I spent a morning tearing out the terrible, stained beige carpet from the lounge of my trailer. After our almost month-long trip, I simply could not stand one more session trying to get the carpet clean. I will keep the carpet in the bedroom as is.

The credenza is out and sitting on the vinyl in the hall and the writing table is back laying on the bed, so I have a clean expanse of plywood to work with.

I have 40 sq ft of 2' x 2' carpet squares ordered from Lowe's that should arrive by the weekend. The new carpet is a Berber-looking brown salt and pepper weave that should not show dirt or stains. I figure it will be a lot easier to fit the squares to the curved molding that separates the carpet from the vinyl than it would be to struggle with a big piece of carpet.

I can't get rid of the curved molding because of the holes in the vinyl, so I added a lot more screws to the tabs on the curved molding to insure that it lies flat to the floor. The tiles are supposed to be self-adhering, but I will supplement the edge at the molding with double-sided carpet tape on the tabs of the molding and maybe some spray adhesive as well.

I'll have some photos as soon as the job is complete.

SilverCabin · 07-18-2007, 02:25 PM

Hi John glad you're back safely,

I really like what you have done in the kitchen cabinets (Post 17). How did you secure these additional shelves to the existing cabinet sides? Can you send me a few more pictures showing the installation method? These cabinets on mine are just big open boxes, and I would like to build some organization into them as you have done.

Thanks,

Randy

halimer · 07-18-2007, 02:52 PM

Great work!! I would be curious what modifications you did to your 25 AS. I recently purchased a 2006 Classic 25.
Thanks.

Pahaska · 07-18-2007, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by halimer

Great work!! I would be curious what modifications you did to your 25 AS. I recently purchased a 2006 Classic 25.
Thanks.

The trailers had the same layout, so I did most of the same changes, although that trailer did not have vinyl floor so I replaced the carpet except the bedroom with bamboo flooring.

Pretty much anything I have done to the 28 applies equally to the 25.