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Old 11-04-2014, 10:22 PM   #15
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[QUOTE
If you're concerned about cranking up chains and bars and such - you might want to check out the Andersen for its friction sway control device. Folks who use it seem happy with it and there aren't heavy bars to crank up. You can leave it engaged while backing up and in the rain. It might be a good option for you.

[/QUOTE]

This post seems to suggest that sway and WD units have heavy bars to crank up.

I am reasonably new at this, but I found very quickly that the tongue jack (mine is even a crank version as opposed to a fancy electric) is key. The position of the tongue with respect to the hitch makes a world of difference putting WD bars in place. If I put the full weight of the trailer on the truck, no amount of levering will let me lift the bar... but when it is in the right position, it is effortless. So it seems to me that the truck will probably do just fine without it, but why not use at least and EQUILIZER. There are 7 plus years of data in the towing section on the EQUILIZER Brand Equilizer hitch, and I read it all. The most telling statement in the entire thread is that the only time the thread originator had his AS moving out of control was when it was in an earthquake in the driveway and it wasn't connected to the tow vehicle.

I am pulling a 2004 22' Safari with a 1/2 ton 2014 Toyota Tundra in New Mexico where the mountain grades can be significant, and have yet to feel any side sway from wind or 18 wheelers (me passing them or vice-versa) with a 600 lb tongue weight EQ brand unit. Initially I was worried that maybe I should have the 1000 lb tongue weight unit, but the bars are not interchangeable, so I would guess the 1000 lb would be a lot stiffer. At any rate, I am ecstatic about the handling, and wouldn't change a thing... but I also wouldn't tow without it, and by putting the equalizer bars in place with the tongue jack in the right spot, it is effortless to hook up.
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Old 11-05-2014, 08:01 AM   #16
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I thought I would mention that the bars are interchangeable on the Fastway E2. I put on the 600# round bars after reading much here. The Fastway is essentially the older version of the Equalizer and is cheaper. We love it.
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Old 11-05-2014, 09:21 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Rossbach View Post
[QUOTE
If you're concerned about cranking up chains and bars and such - you might want to check out the Andersen for its friction sway control device. Folks who use it seem happy with it and there aren't heavy bars to crank up. You can leave it engaged while backing up and in the rain. It might be a good option for you.
This post seems to suggest that sway and WD units have heavy bars to crank up.

I am reasonably new at this, but I found very quickly that the tongue jack (mine is even a crank version as opposed to a fancy electric) is key. The position of the tongue with respect to the hitch makes a world of difference putting WD bars in place. If I put the full weight of the trailer on the truck, no amount of levering will let me lift the bar... but when it is in the right position, it is effortless. So it seems to me that the truck will probably do just fine without it, but why not use at least and EQUILIZER. There are 7 plus years of data in the towing section on the EQUILIZER Brand Equilizer hitch, and I read it all. The most telling statement in the entire thread is that the only time the thread originator had his AS moving out of control was when it was in an earthquake in the driveway and it wasn't connected to the tow vehicle.

I am pulling a 2004 22' Safari with a 1/2 ton 2014 Toyota Tundra in New Mexico where the mountain grades can be significant, and have yet to feel any side sway from wind or 18 wheelers (me passing them or vice-versa) with a 600 lb tongue weight EQ brand unit. Initially I was worried that maybe I should have the 1000 lb tongue weight unit, but the bars are not interchangeable, so I would guess the 1000 lb would be a lot stiffer. At any rate, I am ecstatic about the handling, and wouldn't change a thing... but I also wouldn't tow without it, and by putting the equalizer bars in place with the tongue jack in the right spot, it is effortless to hook up.[/QUOTE]

Hi Dan, thanks for good write up. Can you post a link to your Setup as I'm interested in this as a possible purchase?

Larry
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Old 11-05-2014, 06:07 PM   #18
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We have a restored vintage 1960 Avion T20 20' with single axle, which I've towed with a variety of TVs with & without WD+Anti-Sway. The T20 factory dry weight was stated as 2850# with 285# TW, & it's probably 3000-3200 wet & loaded with another 100-150# tongue wt. due to 2x 30# LP tanks & the Hensley Cub.

A single axle is inherently less stable or straight tracking than a tandem axle found in longer trailers

The 2013 F-150 (V6/AT) had built in sway control on the truck & I experienced little to no sway that wasn't "killed" or damped by the truck's opposite braking sway control in 800 miles ABQ to OC/Orange, CA.

Then we had Nissan Pathfinders (4.0 V6/AT) - 1st time without WD or anti-sway, which was a white knuckle ride for 400+ miles RT up to Pismo & back - when the T20 would wag it's tail as soon as I got over 55-60 mph.

The next few trips WITH a Hensley Cub in the Pathfinders & Dodge 2500 3/4 ton V8/AT were effortless, but I found myself easily up to 70-75 with no drama (tow max is 55 mph in CA & many states).

So I guess sway could serve as an over-speed limit indicator if one wanted!?

Although only 62, I chose the Hensley Cub (smaller, lighter & cheaper than the Arrow for trailers up to 6000#) for similar reasons as you state - ease of use, thinking that we'd be more likely to keep using our trailer if it were easier to use & not have to remove spring bars, hitch heads, & use the easier tensioner jacks - rather than cranking up chains on spring bars by brute force!

Also, the Hensley eliminates the sway by its geometry of operation, rather than resisting it with friction blocks or pneumatically, etc. I looked at ProPride too, but the installation & some other things were easier/better on the Hensley IMHO, & the Cub was cheaper than a one-size PP.

It can be a bit more of a challenge hitting the "stinger" tow bar into the Hensley box when at odd angles/slopes &/or where a rolled curb/ramp/driveway apron puts the TV itself at an odd angle, but using the jacks to adjust the Hensley head to the angle & height of the stinger is easy enough, and a rear view/back-up camera or the balls on the magnetic extenders helps getting it lined up.

However, I'm an extremely low timer at towing being about 7-8x in the past 2.5 years since we got our T20, & I can still manage to hit the hole 1st or 2nd try by myself!

The back-up camera is best, so I'd suggest getting one of those magnetic wireless cameras to use if your TV doesn't have one.

That said, I was told by more than one trailer pro & long timers alike that a cheaper Equalizer & similar brands WD+Anti-Sway would be adequate for our smaller trailer.

I went for the ease of use & full sway control over the long haul, cuz I doubt we'll be switching trailers much, and settling on a TV will help the consistency of my hitching up performance.

Good Luck!
Tom (Janabanana's hitcher/driver)
///////

PS - The spring bars are for the weight distribution function on these, generally not for anti-sway, although I think that there may be some torsion bar sway resisting types out there.

WD is to equalize the trailer's weight between to front & rear axles of the TV, thereby reducing or eliminating the rear squatting &/or front end lifting of the TV when the weight of the trailer is on the hitch of the TV. WD hitches also tend to have more secure coupling of the hitch ball than just a straight coupler to ball.

The steering & most braking power is at the TV's (or any vehicle's) front wheels, & FWD front wheel drive is on some too - so you don't want to lift & unload that front axle/wheels!

Therefore, a big enough truck/TV relative to a smaller/lighter trailer may only need anti-sway. and some newer trucks with towing packages have built-in anti-sway, as did the 1st F150 we rented.

In our case we're still renting & never know what we'll get, & in the long term will probably settle on a mid-size SUV with V8 to buy as a TV/3rd car due to space constraints in our driveway/garage & older narrow streets in our 1920's Model T or A era neighborhood. So the Hensley Cub made sense to us as a long term investment.
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Old 11-05-2014, 09:26 PM   #19
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Easy Hook Ups

[QUOTE= So it seems to me that the truck will probably do just fine without it, but why not use at least and EQUILIZER. There are 7 plus years of data in the towing section on the EQUILIZER Brand Equilizer hitch, and I read it all. The most telling statement in the entire thread is that the only time the thread originator had his AS moving out of control was when it was in an earthquake in the driveway and it wasn't connected to the tow vehicle. QUOTE]


Sorry about that. EQUAL-I-ZER. And I did it twice!
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Old 11-22-2014, 12:19 PM   #20
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We tow a 16 foot Bambi with Toyota 4 runner and Toyota Land Cruiser . No sway bar, no problem.
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Old 11-22-2014, 01:46 PM   #21
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After 2+ years on this forum and thinking we were going to get a Airstream, we cam across the Oliver (fiberglass) web site and decided that was the better way to go. That was one of the first questions we asked was about a SC hitch. All the replies were ' we don't use one". I was still kind of skeptical, but we just pulled it from the plant in Hollenwald, TN to K.C. and it pulled straight as an arrow. Had a little bit of cross wind and many trucks passing, and it was solid. Oh, it's 23'6 and about 4500 lbs.

Stan
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:20 AM   #22
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I'll never forget a highway incident in my side mirror. A half ton pick up pulling an old SOB box camper, single axle and about 18 foot long. We were at 70 mph going down a long downhill grade. This fellow decides he is going to pass me and pulls out in the left lane. And then the sway started! That little trailer swayed back and forth with such ferocity the rear wheels left the ground! I could see it in my mirror. I thought sure they were going over and then run over by other traffic. By the grace of God it did not, and the driver carefully slowed and pulled back into the right lane. I can only imagine what his wife was saying!

I believe small trailers with single axles are more prone to sway. I would recommend a simple friction sway bar to help. And I recommend slower speeds and no sudden steering inputs, especially while going downhill.

David

PS That said, we all know Airstreams with DuraTorq axles are famous for their stability.
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:15 AM   #23
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I'll never forget a highway incident in my side mirror. A half ton pick up pulling an old SOB box camper, single axle and about 18 foot long. We were at 70 mph going down a long downhill grade. This fellow decides he is going to pass me and pulls out in the left lane. And then the sway started! That little trailer swayed back and forth with such ferocity the rear wheels left the ground! I could see it in my mirror. I thought sure they were going over and then run over by other traffic. By the grace of God it did not, and the driver carefully slowed and pulled back into the right lane. I can only imagine what his wife was saying!

I believe small trailers with single axles are more prone to sway. I would recommend a simple friction sway bar to help. And I recommend slower speeds and no sudden steering inputs, especially while going downhill.

David

PS That said, we all know Airstreams with DuraTorq axles are famous for their stability.

I agree 100%. Happened to me only once with my 10' (box) pop-up. It was during evasive maneuvers as an accident was unfolding in front of me. Instead of avoiding one accident, I was suddenly avoiding a second simultaneously....My trailer which suddenly had a mind of its own.

Also by the grace of God, we came out of it without a scratch. Friction sway bar went on the next day. And that was a 1500# trailer (no brakes, however) pulled bu a 4200# Astro van. It always felt rock solid as well, until something unexpected happened.

IMO, the size of the trailer makes no difference in the need for SC.....the product needed is worthy of discussion for the size of the TV and trailer, but we all need it.

If I were to buy a Bambi, I think I'd opt for either a Reese Straight line or a Hensley Cub.
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:47 AM   #24
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Yep I saw a Chevy Monte Carlo go horizontal from the sway on a single axle U-Hall trailer. Flat stretch of interstate doing about 60 mph. Was very scary how quick this happened. Thankfully the car and the trailer stayed on their wheels but the torque of the sway was so great that the Chevy went off the road and ended up perpendicular to the highway and the trailer.

Jack
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:15 AM   #25
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Went with WDH, but never installed Sway Control. Have not ever experienced significant sway--even at significant, but I will put them on regardless before long! Can only help!

I know that it is completely acceptable to go without the WDH as well, but it just feels so much better knowing more weight is up on the front axle- I was surprised at how much more more comfortable I felt immediately! And more importantly, it means my wife has been even more comfortable taking some turns at the wheel!
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Old 11-23-2014, 11:23 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by gerhard View Post
Do I need a Sway Control Hitch pulling a 16ft trailer?
Do I need a Sway Control Hitch and WD pulling a 19ft trailer?
I have a new 4x4 Ram 2500 Diesel truck.
My thinking is that it is easier to travel with a small 16ft trailer, specially if I don't need the WD Sway Control Hitch. I am aware of the obvious space differences between a 16 and 19ft trailer. Being 73, I want it simple. My plan is to travel around the US and having our bed with us instead of going Hotels.
Thank you, Gerhard
is a friction sway bar that expensive ? I can't see the bambi flipping your 2500 truck over, and you may not feel sway, but seems like cheap risk reduction for the "exceptional" situation.

If it was swaying a little all the time would you even feel it in the 2500 ? Or would it just slowly tear the trailer and your frame apart. Not an expert, just thinking outloud.
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Old 11-23-2014, 11:46 AM   #27
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I don't think constant , non-sway controlled, trailer movement tears anything up, until something unexpected happens. But it is fatiguing, in my experience, to make the minor adjustments in the wheel all day long.

Not expensive at all....in fact, here's a heck of a deal:

Friction Sway Control - $24.95
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Old 11-24-2014, 01:02 AM   #28
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Personal opinion--I flat WON'T tow without my ProPride sway prevention. Or any similar Hensley design hitch setup in a pinch.

Too much white-knuckle with our rig before we went to the PP hitch...now it's no issue--55 in CA, whatever is legal elsewhere. 75 in Texas with a heck of a tailwind was a bit much, so I backed off a bit, but not because of sway...
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