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Old 08-09-2016, 06:34 PM   #1
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Stabilizer Jack Crank Extensions Question

It is a hassle to raise and lower the stabilizer jacks on our '16 because it is low and the crank attachment is recessed. I noticed that on the big AS models the crank attachment point is at the outside edge of the trailer and easy to reach. Anyone added an extension to the jacks to move the attachment point out and if so, how? My back and knees thank you.
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Old 08-09-2016, 06:42 PM   #2
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Take along a portable drill with a socket to fit the stabilizers (from Camping World among others) and it's a quick job lowering and raising the stabilizers. Remember these are not jacks on an Airstream, just snug down to stabilize the trailer.
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Old 08-09-2016, 06:49 PM   #3
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Saw a Bambie with electric stabilizer jacks at the dealer this week. There was one getting them installed and another had them. Seems to be a movement.

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Old 08-09-2016, 06:51 PM   #4
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I agree with above. I believe it's a 3/4 " drill bit. I got mine at Ace Hardware after explaining what I was trying to do. Take a picture of your stabilizer & show the hardware guy so he understands what your trying to do.
A portable drill with this attachment takes about 2 minutes to up or down all 4 stabilizers.
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Old 08-09-2016, 06:53 PM   #5
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Is money an object? VTS sells complete BAL jacks with the longer shaft for $65 a pop... Don't know if that is any longer than what you have.
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Old 08-09-2016, 07:04 PM   #6
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Agree with the drill idea - and you could easily fir it wth a extension if you have to I sould think.

I have been doing that for years - presently use a 20V Dewalt, and the batteries also work on a powerful flashlight and a vacuum cleaner that I take along!

I also use the drill for running up the jack screws on our Henlsley hitch - and now and then for other chores - even drilling holes!!

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Old 08-09-2016, 07:05 PM   #7
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All Airstreams are not the equipped the same way

On the smaller/lesser quality Airstream trailers the stabilizers do not have a nut on the end so that a socket fits onto them. On my Safari it takes a round tube with a slot. The stabilizers on my Safari are almost useless, so wobbly I hardly ever use them. And, they are difficult to deploy since the end of the screw shaft is about 8-10" back from the edge of the trailer wall. And, the legs do not extend down enough, so that additional blocking is needed. These are not as sturdy as those on the other Airstream trailers I've owned.
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Old 08-09-2016, 07:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
On the smaller/lesser quality Airstream trailers the stabilizers do not have a nut on the end so that a socket fits onto them. On my Safari it takes a round tube with a slot. The stabilizers on my Safari are almost useless, so wobbly I hardly ever use them. And, they are difficult to deploy since the end of the screw shaft is about 8-10" back from the edge of the trailer wall. And, the legs do not extend down enough, so that additional blocking is needed. These are not as sturdy as those on the other Airstream trailers I've owned.
Interesting! It would be easy enough to have nuts welded on if you wanted I imagine, or make up a suitable cross-pin driver on an extenion to use in a drill.


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Old 08-09-2016, 07:20 PM   #9
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You are all correct, the drill would be very quick and easy. The PO issue and I have the same issue is that the stablizers are set so far back from edge of trailer. It really requires getting diwn low and under to crank or drill them down. Has anyone ever extended them to the edge on the 16 or 19, so a drill could be quickly used? I like idea of electric jacks.
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Old 08-09-2016, 07:29 PM   #10
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We bought a slotted bit off Amazon that works with a drill. Problem is it still requires crawling on the ground to line it up on the attachment point. Also, clearance is tight on the right front one by the step. I thought about having a welding shop look at adding extensions though electric jacks sound like a really nice addition.
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:19 PM   #11
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Electric jacks, ugh, just another thing to break. Find a metal shop see if they can make you a handle or socket extension with a really long reach.
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:21 PM   #12
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I used an electric drill on my previous T@B teardrop, but the ends of the jack screw was closer to the edge of the trailer body. I tried using it on the AS, but found it was quicker and easier with the manual crank. I have thought about cutting the crank off about 18" long so I could chuck it into the drill, but it would still be awkward. I'm also going to bring gardener knee pads to wear to add some cushioning while kneeling on the ground. A headlight is also needed in the dark.
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:36 PM   #13
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On our 22 Sport I took the stabilizers off and had a local weld shop add 8 inches to the 'length.
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Old 08-09-2016, 09:26 PM   #14
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It's a no brainier for me on my 22'FB. 12" extension,1/4 adapter for the drill, pcs of carpet pad to kneel on, 5/8" deep socket with a groove cut in it. For the time it took me to read these responses I could completed the task including putting the tool away.
Another option buy and extra crank,cut off a 14" section ,put in a drill and your set to go. Far cheaper than welding, extensions, buying jacks etc.
It doesn't need to be an issue..
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