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Old 09-14-2007, 10:36 PM   #15
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2007 19' Bambi
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Thanks for the replies. For those of you that were looking at my picture, my truck is an '06 Chevy Duramax HD2500 Crew cab. The bed height is pretty typical at about 17"-18", therefore the tailgate is that as well. I know that some of the newer trucks, like F150's have 20" beds, which would make the tailgate problem worse.

This pic is at the RV dealer when I took delivery. No, no antisway setup. They said I didn't need it cause of my 3/4 ton truck and longish wheelbase and the trailer is only a 19'. I did pull the trailer back up to Nor CA that night (500 miles over the Grapevine) and it trailered beautifully.

The ball mount is a Reese 10K that measures 9" from receiver pin to center of ball. Ball shank is 1".

As far as moving the jack or tanks, ...yeah... I guess I could do that someday. But why didn't Airstream think of that?? It's not a stretch to say that a large margin of people's TV's are trucks or Burbs with tailgates. I need about another 5" to clear the jack and that would put the tanks very close to the trailer skin. Besides, my battery box is there right now and takes up the whole space.

From some of the comments, I gather that the tongues on the larger trailers may be longer.
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Old 09-14-2007, 11:15 PM   #16
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hi tetstream

need evidence that little trailers need sway control?

here ya go....

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...rol-17986.html

IF you ever have a blow out or a trailer tire leaves the pavement...

OR there is the need to stand on the brakes....

wiggle may happen.

IF your only concern is tailgate clearance,

get a longer stinger/ ball mount made for the reciever...

about 50$ from a welder...

cheers
2air'
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Old 09-15-2007, 01:05 AM   #17
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AW, you guys have it easy. I tow with my '71 Buick cnvertible. My hitch shank elbows UP not down as with most pickups. It elbows up in front of the rear car license plate. So what you ask. Well behind the hinged plate is my gas filler cap and filler. Oh what fun I have trying to snake pump nozzles in there. Not all pump nozzles are the same. The slender ones I manage but the ones with the thick vapor emmision thingys on them are impossible.
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Old 09-15-2007, 03:11 AM   #18
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OK, now I'm scared....I have a Dodge pickup and it did not come with a receiver, just the cross tubing type bar. So, I got a receiver and welded it to the cross bar with what looked to me to be adequate bracing both front and rear.

Please forgive me, I'm new here, did not introduce myself, I'm Steve Huebinger, I'm recently retired, and live in Texas.

I just bought a '75 23' Safari, sort of a fixer upper, that we plan to take to Alaska next summer.

Although we plan to replace the Dodge before next summer with a more suitable tow vehicle (it's a short wheelbase, 1/2 ton, with the 4.7 liter engine), I did want to do some local shakedown trips when I get the trailer fixed up. Maybe I should reconsider.
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Old 09-15-2007, 05:55 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tetstream
... Would you use a ball mount extension ???
Hi tetstream: I would NOT use a ball mount extension with that very short [factory?] receiver tube you now have on your Chevy 2500. It looks very lightweight to me and the additional leverage of a ball hitch extension might rip it right off the truck. Now I don't know much at all about Chevys, but you might look into a buying and installing a beefier aftermarket Class IV receiver that bolts to your trucks frame rails. You may, or may not, be able to mount such a receiver assembly slightly more rearward on your frame rails to position the ball further back. And it might be sturdy enough to use a ball mount extension that you shorten to move the ball back only as much as needed (i.e., maybe a 6 inch extension cut down to 4 inches length). Good luck!
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Old 09-15-2007, 06:06 AM   #20
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OK, now I'm scared....I have a Dodge pickup and it did not come with a receiver, just the cross tubing type bar. So, I got a receiver and welded it to the cross bar with what looked to me to be adequate bracing both front and rear.
Hi Steve: Welcome to the forums. I own a 1992 Dodge 3/4 ton Cummins turbo diesel truck and had a small receiver tube welded onto the rear frame cross member. It began to tear off at the welds, so I removed and discarded it.

I replaced it with an aftermarket Class III or Class IV receiver assembly from Redneck Trailer Supply that bolted to my frame rails. Go here: Redneck Trailer Supplies - the leading wholesale distributor of trailer supplies hit Products then Towing Accessories and download those pages from their web site .pdf catalog. They should have one for your Dodge truck. Good luck!
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Old 09-15-2007, 06:53 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 47WeeWind
I replaced it with an aftermarket Class III or Class IV receiver assembly from Redneck Trailer Supply that bolted to my frame rails. Go here: Redneck Trailer Supplies - the leading wholesale distributor of trailer supplies hit Products then Towing Accessories and download those pages from their web site .pdf catalog. They should have one for your Dodge truck. Good luck!
Fred, if I did it right, this should be the list of hitches for Dodge trucks (all two of them):
ALL DODGE RAMS BUILT NOV. 2002 AND AFTER 2003-06 RRH13325 315096 5000 10000
FULL SIZE DODGE, 6' & 8' BED EXCEPT 2002 RAM 1500 1967-02 RRH13310 315137 6000 10000

The above is from Redneck Trailer.
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Old 09-15-2007, 11:23 AM   #22
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OK, clearly I need to do some additional research. I am one of those guys that errs on the safe side, so a Reese setup may be in the near future.

Ball mount extension is OUT. Max Tongue wieight on the OEM receiver is 1000# (per label on unit), which cut by 1/3 for the extension means 660#, which cuts it TOO close.

One question for you more experienced guys:

What effect does a WD/Sway Control hitch setup have on the

a) receiver and TV, frame and components
b) trailer A-frame

Seems to me that a WD/Sway setup stiffens the connection between TV and trailer, thereby adding stresses to both, particularly torque. Some other posts that I skimmed talked about the A-frames being trashed (eventually) by these setups. I also would imagine that stresses are transferred thru the TV, resulting in some loss of comfort, albeit, more control.

Also, looks like to me that if I go with WD/Sway, I'll replace the whole OEM receiver with a Reese Class V.

PS> This sheds a whole new light on pulling my 10K equipment trailer...
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Old 09-15-2007, 11:59 AM   #23
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If for some reason, you don't want to go with full WD AND anti-sway, you could always get one of those Reese fristion bar sway control setups. While not the greatest in the world, it will help keep the tail of the Bambi pointed in the proper direction. I use that anti sway, with WD, and have no problems.
As for the cargo trailer, I see many of them in the storage lot where we keep our Airstream equipped with that type of sway control.
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Old 09-15-2007, 12:38 PM   #24
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Works with Eq

I use an Equal-I-Zer hitch with their short shank (12" long) and I can open my tailgate just fine.
Truck is a 3/4 ton Dodge Diesel.
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Old 11-15-2007, 05:38 PM   #25
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My Chevy 2500HD tailgate seems pretty tall but clears the jack most of the time. Only problem (and unusual, at that) is if the trailer and truck are pretty far out of line with each other. We're using an Equalizer brand hitch, the drawbar has only one hole in it.

Seems the biggest variable is the weight-distributing hitch manufacturer's drawbar length. Using a wd hitch, if you aren't already, would seem to be the simple solution to create distance between tailgate and trailer without increasing the hitch weight dynamics.
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Old 11-15-2007, 09:17 PM   #26
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Tailgate or Liftgate?

Hi, I can't open mine either. My Navigator's tailgate or liftgate also hits the tongue jack. So I open the liftgate window only while hitched and only open the liftgate after unhitching. This works for me. I'm thinking that, maybe, a Ha Ha might be farther back than my Equal-i-zer, allowing for my liftgate to open, but I don't plan on doing that. So, let's ask the Ha Ha owners if they have the same concern or can they all open their tailgates/liftgates?
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Old 11-16-2007, 10:40 AM   #27
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I think you guys are working way too hard at this. Get a longer hitch and be done with it. And you should have a weight-distributing hitch and sway control of some sort. Absolutely no reason why a 2500HD pickup shouldn't be able to drop its tailgate while hooked up to a Bambi - or a 31' Limited, either.

Pat
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Old 11-16-2007, 10:48 AM   #28
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Short A frame??

Installing a 18" hitch bar on the ball mount, will allow the tail gates to completely open.

If A-frames were any longer than they are now, tons of problems would quickly surface.

Andy
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