Rivet Ed

[Airabel]

So we took a little trip with our Sport this week ( on a gravel road ) and got our first rivet pop. An interior rivet just above the galley counter top popped off. I've never worked with rivets before and realize that and education is needed if I'm going to work on an Airstream. I tried to replace the rivet with a #4 - 3/8" sheet metal screw but it would only screw in about an 1/8" so the other end of the rivet must still be in there.
Where do I go to research Airstream rivets and how to replace them properly? Looks like there are two types on our Airstream, small pop rivets on the inside and big pan head rivets on the exterior. Our dealer is about 400 miles away so I need to do minor work myself.
Thanks for the help.

[55AS]

Go to Home Depot or any local hardware store and buy a simple hand rivet gun (tool) and several sizes of rivets. Drill out the broken rivet and replace with a new one. Keep the rivets and gun in your traveling toolkit.

[MWBishop]

Interesting.
So there's nothing "special" about the rivets?
Just good ol' Home Depot type will do?
This is good to know.

[AWCHIEF]

Originally Posted by MWBishop

Interesting.
So there's nothing "special" about the rivets?
Just good ol' Home Depot type will do?
This is good to know.

I would recommend aluminum only rivets. I got mine from vintagetrailersupply.

[Airabel]

As luck would have it, my missing rivet is about 1/ 4" above the galley counter top so a drill won't work to remove the old rivet and a rivet gun probably won't fit either. Stainless steel sheet metal screw was only other option.
My question is, do you have to drill out the old rivet inside the hole to install a new one?

[TG Twinkie]

Yes is the short answer.
The rivet was installed prior to the counter top. Making it difficult to replace.
IMHO. A screw would look more out of place than the missing rivet. You may be better off to try and ignor it.

[Airabel]

The screw is very small and behind the stove so is not at all noticable. Anywhere else would be. So I want to be prepared for the next one.
Thanks

[SpinWhite]

We cannot go on a trip without popping rivets in 2 areas. Both sides in the curved area that transitions from the walls to the ceiling. Above the cabinets and either side of the window. Anyone else have this problem?

[dznf0g]

It is pretty common for a new trailer to pop some until it "settles" in. They are hand built, each one is unique and as such, there are "stressed" areas which move and flex while travelling. I had a few pop, but none in the last 5 years. Also, harmonic vibrations and or a too stiff wd hitch can contribute. Balancing tires/wheels with Centramatics and ensuring proper wd spring bars is needed.

[dznf0g]

Also, there are 90* drill attachments available for tight areas. Milwaukee makes one....available from HD. Never substitute screws. Rivets will not fit after deforming hole with screw.

[55AS]

Home Depot ones are fine for interior use. Make sure they are aluminum, not steel.

[Airabel]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Also, there are 90* drill attachments available for tight areas. Milwaukee makes one....available from HD. Never substitute screws. Rivets will not fit after deforming hole with screw.

dznf0g
I already put a very small screw in the hole without drilling out the old rivet. Screw is small enough to not be noticable. Looks just like a rivet from distance.
If it deforms the hole can a bigger rivet be used? I'm thinking in the future when I get the proper tools and rivets. And practice a bit.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Airabel

dznf0g
I already put a very small screw in the hole without drilling out the old rivet. Screw is small enough to not be noticable. Looks just like a rivet from distance.
If it deforms the hole can a bigger rivet be used? I'm thinking in the future when I get the proper tools and rivets. And practice a bit.

Yes, and as you indicate, if it isn't visible or in a noticeable area, it's no biggie. If you stay with a screw, use aluminum or stainless to reduce the possibility of a galvanic reaction down the road.