Pop Goes the Rivet or Missing interior pop rivets 22FB

[Dawny]

Originally Posted by featherbedder

Menards and Home depot have white aluminum rivets. You will need size 1/8 diameter and a pop rivet tool, a good brand is Marson clik fast, well made w/several heads. It is very easy to replace rivets and if have to drill takes 1/8 bit. Buy a good tool as you will have many uses for it as a AS owner there will be more pop off. As far as usage, very simple put rivet in tool then in hole squeze handle stem will break off, nothing else to do, that's it. You can also place rivet in hole then in tool, makes no dif.

Be careful when pulling the trigger handle of the rivet tool and try to hang on securely because when the rivet actually pops the whole tool can behave like it has a recoil and you could end up hitting the surrounding aluminum with the head of the tool and scratching it. You might try to put duct tape around the head of the tool so if you do hit the surrounding panel it will not scratch or mar the finish of the panel. Might test it on another piece of aluminum first to get the feel of what I am describing. If you have rain gutters on you house those are made of aluminum and could allow you to pop a rivet after drilling a hole on a seam and see how it goes before potentially messing with the interior of your Airstream. Just trying to save you some aggravation. Good luck.

[AFTER TAXES]

robert cross knows.............

[Msherw]

Originally Posted by Spinonedad

Covered under warranty

Spin,

I would rather make a trip to the dentist for a root canal than take my beloved AS back to the original selling dealer (who would schedule me 2 months later). I'm sure there are others on the forum who like their dealer and really trust them, but...(clearing throat).

Dealer = a person who deals cards to "players" in a card game and who always assures the success of the House.

[polarlyse]

I have a 17 year old trailer and have not had an interior rivet pop out in the 9 years we've had it. A couple of outer ones but no interior. I'd replace them and not worry about it unless you continue to find broken ones. Then I'd begin to look for the culprit cause. I'd expect to see a few pop on a new trailer as it begins its flexing life on our pot-holed roads.

[Msherw]

I want to thank all who have contributed to my 'knowledge base' on this thread. It is gratifying to always know you are not alone when issues with the Airstream should arise. Here are my take-aways from the discussion thus far (feel free to contribute additional comments):

1. The 2018 22FBs come with GYE that state on the tire sidewall - inflate to 80psi for maximum load - max load is 2850 lbs per tire. So 2x2850=5700 lbs rating to support a wet trailer weight that should not exceed 4500 lbs. So I have some wiggle room to deflate slightly perhaps to 65 lbs. Can the hard tire ride cause interior rivets to pop out? I don't really think so - it was likely the median I was forced by the officer to drive over to achieve a U-turn in northern New Mexico. It induced a lot of side-to-side body flex and likely sheared the rivets.

2. Got a pop rivet tool and soft aluminum 1/8' rivets located and will follow the suggestions you all posted. I'll likely be an 'EX SPURT' by the time I finish #6.

3. I do use the dealer supplied Equii-L-izer WD set up. It is overkill and seems stiff. I contacted technical at Equil-L-izer and they assured me a properly set up WD will never damage a frame. They have been supplying WD to Airstreamers for many years now. So I will keep it. The AS has a full box channel frame so I don't see how I can induce much flex into it with my TV.

4. I am happy with our 22FB so far and now have about 8K miles in less than a year. She will be a great ride for many years to come. I do a lot of my own 'fixes' and prefer to really get to know the AS as opposed to parking it for weeks/months on a dealer lot while they work on it. Other than 4 failed Atwood water heater boards that I finally replaced with a Dinosaur board (AS reimbursed me for it), I really have not had a lot of problems with her.

Thanks all for your input.

[ROBERT CROSS]

More than one cause...WD stiffness being just one.http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...ml#post1774367

Just one of many threads...do the google

Bob
🇺🇸

[malett]

pop rivets have different shear and tensile strength, even though they are 1/8 pop rivets. I would suggest you compare 1/8 pop rivets on the McMaster Carr catalog pages for their strength and uses. Marson (Alcola) has a pop rivet web page that does the same. I would suggest consulting them to see whats available. Using their part Nos. then go to box store and buy them at a cheaper price or order them through McMaster.

[Troutboy]

Originally Posted by I fly boz

order tri-grip blind rivet with aluminum mandrel dome head
.154/.163 x.040-.250 grip
these are design for thin material application
Hanson river supply
Pacoima ca.
ph.800-777-4838

Why tri grip? If the head pops off are these easy to drill out? I would think it would be tough to get out.

[cwf]

For a rivet to 'pop' out, there are stresses on the shank.. or just being pulled out. With practice you can get a good idea which is occurring.

In the AS world, the inner sheeting/skin adds rigidity and some strength... but, when bounced, the metal moves between the ribs and the sheeting. Think about a soda can ... grab each end and twist in opposite directions.. you will see the sides buckling.. that is your AS under tow.

When the AS was built, these holes are all drilled then riveted. Once the AS is put 'in service', all of the trailer 'seats in'.. the 'tight spots' where the metal stresses, will affect rivets.

Movement can be good.. as the whole sheet of aluminum can move rather than kinking in a stress line. Now, replacing rivets with the 'standard' is ok to see if it was just a bad rivet (manufac. defect) or bad rivet job.. etc.. If the 'new' one fails.. a stronger one can be installed.. but remember.. the rivet breaking is better than other issues it might cause... it is considered 'sacrificial'.. replace and keep 'streaming'...

Using the trip-grip (there is another name but I can't recall at the moment) has a much stronger 'hold'... but, if the rivet hole is not positioned well, as you install the trip-tip, the wings can hit something in the wall, like the side of a rib, and cause it to 'tip' over, causing it to not be a neat/clean install... and might damage the observed metal around it..

Also, whenever you use the rivet tool, mask around the site with a piece of cardboard with right size hole for rivet, taped over the hole.. when the rivet mandrel 'pops/separates', the rivet tool will 'hop'.. unless you have a really expensive pneumatic rivet tool.. lookie here.. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus...ic_1rivet.html ..

They also have a wide range of rivets.. if it goes on an airplane, it is usually good stuff... but it costs a little more... look up the standard 'cherry' rivet... there are some which are overkill.. the price is a giveaway.. look for a 'protruding' head in the size you like..

[66Overlander]

Lots of good replies. I will just ad that popped interior rivets are a natural aspect of owning an Airstream. 15+ years and 7 Airstreams and the only one I did not pop rivets on was the one with fuzzy walls and a padded ceiling. I'm sure it popped rivets, but I just couldn't see them.

The key is to replace them as soon as possible so that the next rivet in not overstressed. If you pop an aluminum one multiple times, you may want to replace that one with a stainless steel rivet. The factory service center did that for one of ours while still under warranty.

Other things that can reduce popping have been discussed above, lower tire pressures if possible, less stuff tow vehicle/wd hitch, avoid rough and especially proposing roads, drive slower, etc. But even doing all that you'll still occasionally pop interior rivets, just less often.

P.S. It is my opinion that longer and heavier Airstreams pop rivets more often than shorter and lighter Airstreams because they flex more, thus putting more strain on rivets.

Good luck!

[delrossa]

My 2 cents. I had some rivets pop and I replaced them with rivets I purchased locally. They popped shortly afterwards. I did some research and purchased some assorted rivets from the Airstream store and the rivets stayed. The increased shear strength of the Airstream rivets made the difference.
To remove the old popped rivet I use a punch the same size of the rivet and carefully push or tap the old rivet out. Drilling is my last resort.
Good luck.

[I fly boz]

I haven't had any of the tri-grip head pop off if they do they should be removed as any other they are design to distribute more area on the back side and the oval head are stronger in my opinion

[Msherw]

Reading all this has made me aware of many things.

I ordered a Marson gun from Airstream Life today along with appropriate aluminum rivets. They indicate they will 'teach' me via video how to properly rivet an Airstream interior to meet the Alcoa/AS engineering model.

I'll let everyone know how it goes. Yes, I have painter's tape to protect the panel while riveting else my wife will not be happy if I slip. You know the saying...when the wife isn't happy...

I plan to lower the GYEs to 65 psi per other's recommendation. All this before we leave on a fall trip.

Lastly, we all own Airstreams and we learn to work on them. Why? Because we love the challenge and the fact that what we own is worthy of our attention. We bought an RV that is well-built and fixable when we need to do so.

[Msherw]

Got the Marson tool yesterday. Drilled out the old mandrels and used the Alcoa aluminum 1/8" rivets.

Very easy and you cannot find any difference between the OEM and my replacements. I challenged my wife to locate the replaced ones.

Thanks to all of you for the input and help here. Thats what makes this forum so valuable. (And why I became a Supporting Member).

[Posse96]

With only 7,000 miles is your AS new and still under warranty? If so, that would be covered. I had about 5 rivits pop in the first 2 years from normal twisting and movement on some of my treks. As Fairfield CA replaced immediately. If out of warranty I've found Home Depot had stainless rivets that would work.

I'll just throw this out. Investigate how much dealer would charge. I only say this as they are use to doing it and their work, in most states, will be warrantied for a year.

[Msherw]

Originally Posted by Posse96

With only 7,000 miles is your AS new and still under warranty? If so, that would be covered. I had about 5 rivits pop in the first 2 years from normal twisting and movement on some of my treks. As Fairfield CA replaced immediately. If out of warranty I've found Home Depot had stainless rivets that would work.

I'll just throw this out. Investigate how much dealer would charge. I only say this as they are use to doing it and their work, in most states, will be warrantied for a year.

Well, as I noted in an earlier post, I would rather save big repairs (if any) for the dealer. I can do what I can myself. Besides, the dealer wants me to wait 2 months and then drop the AS off. Not my idea of customer service.

I like the Marson rivet gun and the Alcoa aluminum rivets. It was an easy job. The gun has a swivel head making the application a breeze.

Actually we have closer to 9K miles now and the trip to the Ozarks in a couple of weeks will probably tie the 10K ribbon on.

[Northerngirl]

Originally Posted by Msherw

I

3. I do use the dealer supplied Equii-L-izer WD set up. It is overkill and seems stiff. I contacted technical at Equil-L-izer and they assured me a properly set up WD will never damage a frame. They have been supplying WD to Airstreamers for many years now. So I will keep it. The AS has a full box channel frame so I don't see how I can induce much flex into it with my TV.

The above statement is correct but the BIG question is: Is the WDH the right bar sizes for your trailer and is it in fact correctly set up?

An Airstream dealer tried to sell me a set of bars that were over kill for my trailer - lots of good info out there from very experienced hitch specialists as to how to heavy of bars can create such issues as you are having on an AS. Even when they installed the bar sizes I was more happy with they did NOT set it up correctly. 8 Miles down the road from dealer I had to pull into a highway rest stop and make adjustments just to get it home safely. Further adjustment and testing required once home to get the set up to tow in the far more stable fashion I was expecting based on previous towing experience with previous trailers.

Bottom line is I would not assume that just because an AS dealer installed the WDH that it is in fact the correct bar weight for your trailer or that it was/is set up as well as it could be.

[CampingJoe]

I had a 1972 25’ airstream in the late 80’s and now a 1999 Bambi for the last 18 years and never popped a rivet. I have 3 friends with 25’ Airstreams 2014 and up and all have rivets that popped out (10+ rivets) they are easy to replace, a rivet gun and a pack of rivets should always be in your toolbox. I love the rivets from Northern Tools you get double the amount for less then Homedept or Lowe’s, plus they are high strength rivets that will likely not pop out again. There is no need to drill a new hole unless a piece of the old rivet is still lodged in the hole.

[Msherw]

Originally Posted by Northerngirl

The above statement is correct but the BIG question is: Is the WDH the right bar sizes for your trailer and is it in fact correctly set up?

An Airstream dealer tried to sell me a set of bars that were over kill for my trailer - lots of good info out there from very experienced hitch specialists as to how to heavy of bars can create such issues as you are having on an AS. Even when they installed the bar sizes I was more happy with they did NOT set it up correctly. 8 Miles down the road from dealer I had to pull into a highway rest stop and make adjustments just to get it home safely. Further adjustment and testing required once home to get the set up to tow in the far more stable fashion I was expecting based on previous towing experience with previous trailers.

Bottom line is I would not assume that just because an AS dealer installed the WDH that it is in fact the correct bar weight for your trailer or that it was/is set up as well as it could be.

Northern girl, I assume nothing. I think when you have a huge median to jump, any WDH can cause torque that will pop rivets.

My WDH is set correctly since the side view shows a level TT/TV hook up. I have discussed my WDH with the manufacturer and they agree it is usable with my rig.

I appreciate the fact that AS units can and sometimes do pop rivets when the conditions are right. I also appreciate the AS Forum for the info on what to buy and how to fix the problem. My 22FB is back to normal.

I'm going to leave the WDH discussion to other threads. I'm happy and ready for the next outing. Stay safe and Stream On (R).

[LakeState]

it's on the to do list each fall