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Old 09-09-2018, 07:30 AM   #15
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Mike... I discuss Popped Rivets.

Where are your Popped Rivets located, this is a point of curious discussion.

Are they:

Most between your door and cabinet, curve?
Next would be the curve directly across from the door popped rivets.
Last would be on the Right Side outside curve in back.

I have a 25 foot and these are the locations of all except one popped rivet. My 23 foot I did not notice a popped rivet, as they were behind the white 'mouse fur they call it'. Somewhere on the Forum I give the exact count and where.

If your popped rivets are in these locations, this tells me there are some weak points within our trailers.

I do believe that Bob is giving you good advice. Those who say correct PSI in your tires creates loose cabinet screws, popped rivets and general mayhem within your Airstream are always YOUR inattention to a long list of necessary, but vague settings. There may be a magic PSI, but try finding it within an Airstream manual.

These are from Tires to Tow Vehicles. Somewhere the engineering of an Airstream should be looked at closer. Not each individual owner who experiences the SAME problems.

Keep track of loose cabinet hardware and popped rivets. Find loose hinges and tighten them. You do not want to damage the cabinets nor floors from falling doors and drawers.

I would like to have the experiences made when the Caravans across Africa and other areas took their toll on these Airstreams.
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Old 09-09-2018, 08:18 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Msherw View Post
After 7k miles we have now discovered 6+ missing interior pop rivets from panels over the 22FB dinette.

Any good source or kit for the replacements and just how hard will this task be?

(I did search the forum to see if anyone had posted similar)
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I got it... have 25 foot layout in mind.
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Old 09-09-2018, 09:39 AM   #17
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Don't forget a drill!

As is almost always the case, this essential community has stepped up to give you a raft of great answers. Pop rivets are easy to replace; you should buy a rivet gun and some rivets, as advised, because this is a fairly common event, given that we are all towing these large trailers over miles of uneven road, and a simple You Tube video can further explain and show the process.

I am writing to add that a necessary piece of equipment many times is a drill, since often the body of the rivet that popped its head is still in the trailer, blocking insertion of a new rivet. Drill slowly, and you'll soon see that you aren't going to drill through the exterior of the trailer; you just need the old body to pop into the gap between the interior and exterior skins so you can insert the new rivet.

Replacing interior rivets is a wonderful and easy skill to acquire. Go for it!
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Old 09-09-2018, 09:45 AM   #18
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https://youtu.be/LLth8hRAd68
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Old 09-09-2018, 10:05 AM   #19
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order tri-grip blind rivet with aluminum mandrel dome head
.154/.163 x.040-.250 grip
these are design for thin material application
Hanson river supply
Pacoima ca.
ph.800-777-4838
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Old 09-09-2018, 10:11 AM   #20
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What length rivet - short, med, long by the 1/8" dia?
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Old 09-09-2018, 10:15 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by featherbedder View Post
Menards and Home depot have white aluminum rivets. You will need size 1/8 diameter and a pop rivet tool, a good brand is Marson clik fast, well made w/several heads. It is very easy to replace rivets and if have to drill takes 1/8 bit. Buy a good tool as you will have many uses for it as a AS owner there will be more pop off. As far as usage, very simple put rivet in tool then in hole squeze handle stem will break off, nothing else to do, that's it. You can also place rivet in hole then in tool, makes no dif.
Be careful when pulling the trigger handle of the rivet tool and try to hang on securely because when the rivet actually pops the whole tool can behave like it has a recoil and you could end up hitting the surrounding aluminum with the head of the tool and scratching it. You might try to put duct tape around the head of the tool so if you do hit the surrounding panel it will not scratch or mar the finish of the panel. Might test it on another piece of aluminum first to get the feel of what I am describing. If you have rain gutters on you house those are made of aluminum and could allow you to pop a rivet after drilling a hole on a seam and see how it goes before potentially messing with the interior of your Airstream. Just trying to save you some aggravation. Good luck.
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Old 09-09-2018, 10:17 AM   #22
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robert cross knows.............
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Old 09-09-2018, 03:56 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spinonedad View Post
Covered under warranty
Spin,

I would rather make a trip to the dentist for a root canal than take my beloved AS back to the original selling dealer (who would schedule me 2 months later). I'm sure there are others on the forum who like their dealer and really trust them, but...(clearing throat).

Dealer = a person who deals cards to "players" in a card game and who always assures the success of the House.
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Old 09-09-2018, 04:32 PM   #24
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I have a 17 year old trailer and have not had an interior rivet pop out in the 9 years we've had it. A couple of outer ones but no interior. I'd replace them and not worry about it unless you continue to find broken ones. Then I'd begin to look for the culprit cause. I'd expect to see a few pop on a new trailer as it begins its flexing life on our pot-holed roads.
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Old 09-10-2018, 09:46 AM   #25
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I want to thank all who have contributed to my 'knowledge base' on this thread. It is gratifying to always know you are not alone when issues with the Airstream should arise. Here are my take-aways from the discussion thus far (feel free to contribute additional comments):

1. The 2018 22FBs come with GYE that state on the tire sidewall - inflate to 80psi for maximum load - max load is 2850 lbs per tire. So 2x2850=5700 lbs rating to support a wet trailer weight that should not exceed 4500 lbs. So I have some wiggle room to deflate slightly perhaps to 65 lbs. Can the hard tire ride cause interior rivets to pop out? I don't really think so - it was likely the median I was forced by the officer to drive over to achieve a U-turn in northern New Mexico. It induced a lot of side-to-side body flex and likely sheared the rivets.

2. Got a pop rivet tool and soft aluminum 1/8' rivets located and will follow the suggestions you all posted. I'll likely be an 'EX SPURT' by the time I finish #6.

3. I do use the dealer supplied Equii-L-izer WD set up. It is overkill and seems stiff. I contacted technical at Equil-L-izer and they assured me a properly set up WD will never damage a frame. They have been supplying WD to Airstreamers for many years now. So I will keep it. The AS has a full box channel frame so I don't see how I can induce much flex into it with my TV.

4. I am happy with our 22FB so far and now have about 8K miles in less than a year. She will be a great ride for many years to come. I do a lot of my own 'fixes' and prefer to really get to know the AS as opposed to parking it for weeks/months on a dealer lot while they work on it. Other than 4 failed Atwood water heater boards that I finally replaced with a Dinosaur board (AS reimbursed me for it), I really have not had a lot of problems with her.

Thanks all for your input.
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Old 09-10-2018, 12:26 PM   #26
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More than one cause...WD stiffness being just one.http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...ml#post1774367

Just one of many threads...do the google

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Old 09-10-2018, 08:50 PM   #27
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pop rivet strengths

pop rivets have different shear and tensile strength, even though they are 1/8 pop rivets. I would suggest you compare 1/8 pop rivets on the McMaster Carr catalog pages for their strength and uses. Marson (Alcola) has a pop rivet web page that does the same. I would suggest consulting them to see whats available. Using their part Nos. then go to box store and buy them at a cheaper price or order them through McMaster.
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Old 09-10-2018, 10:38 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I fly boz View Post
order tri-grip blind rivet with aluminum mandrel dome head
.154/.163 x.040-.250 grip
these are design for thin material application
Hanson river supply
Pacoima ca.
ph.800-777-4838


Why tri grip? If the head pops off are these easy to drill out? I would think it would be tough to get out.
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