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Old 01-28-2007, 11:53 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska
With the automatic switchover to furnace, I find the heat pump in my Classic 28 entirely adequate right down into the low 30s where it switches over to furbace. We set the thermostat at 70 to 72 and stay comfortable.
John, I wish mine worked that well. Unfortunately my 15K heat pump looses so much effiency once we get below the 36 degree mark that the inside trailer temps will drop below 70 and start getting mighty uncomfortable. Add to that the defrost cycles where you are getting no heat output, and by the time I get to the take over point where the furnace comes on line, we are pretty uncomfortable.

The other thing to keep an eyeball out for is running the heat pump when it's extremely humid and in the upper 30's. It's entirely possible to not run enough to engage the defrost cycle, yet run enough to start icing up on the exterior coils. Unfortunately the off cycle time isn't long enough to melt the exterior ice. I've posted a picture on another thread showing the exterior of my AC unit enveloped by ice.

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Old 01-28-2007, 11:57 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
I think you're right. If the thermostat is set near the ambient temperature, eventually the fan will shut off. I don't know whether its a thermal cool down, or just a timer, but i suspect its thermal.

The rating on the heat strip is 1530 watts, or 5600 Btuh. Take your pick, I don't know which is more correct.
I think that 5,600 BTU is pretty close. Pretty anemic when compared to your furnce that might be putting out 30,000-38,000 BTU's. This all raises an interesting question. Can we assume the heat pump has the same BTU rating on heating as it does on cooling?

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Old 01-28-2007, 11:58 AM   #31
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I've posted a picture on another thread showing the exterior of my AC unit enveloped by ice.
I remember that photo and try to keep aware of what is happening on the roof. Fortunately our humidity is usually pretty low and it would be rare here to run into problems.
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Old 01-28-2007, 01:55 PM   #32
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Looking at a 2005 AS brochure, the Classic comes with heat pump, the International CCD and Safari come with the heat strip. The Safari is 11,000 BTU 19'-25', and 13500 for 28' (30' not listed). The International CCD is 11,000 on the Bambi 16'-19', 13500 on the 22'-28'.
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Old 01-28-2007, 03:55 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera
I think that 5,600 BTU is pretty close. Pretty anemic when compared to your furnce that might be putting out 30,000-38,000 BTU's. This all raises an interesting question. Can we assume the heat pump has the same BTU rating on heating as it does on cooling?

Jack
You're right , the heat strip does not compare in output to the furnace . 1500 w or 5600btu is about the most you will find on an electric heater ment to run on 120v , so it should be as good as any portable electric heater .

Interesting point about the output of the heat pump , somewhere it should be labeled , perhaps under the shroud where the AC specs are .
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Old 01-29-2007, 10:43 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by nohillgrish
However, if the heater is used too much your furnace doesn't cycle sufficiently to keep space around your holding tanks warm. Pretty important if you're "wet camping" below freezing.
Does that mean I should be running the HW heater also to keep that water from freezing ?
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Old 02-03-2007, 08:14 PM   #35
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Ya know.......... I gotta tell ya, making the heat is one thing, keeping it in and closing off cold air infiltaration is just as important if not more so !

I spent 5 hours or so with insulation, glue, caulking and duck tape, sealing some pretty big holes around water and waste pipes, around and under the bed over the basement storage area too.

MAN ! what a difference ! I think it's quieter in here too without the wind rushing through !

Nothing wrong with the heater now ! I also got a GE ceramic heater, works nice aimed at the shower in the AM !

You guys gave me lot's to think about, thanx for the guidance.
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Old 02-03-2007, 09:44 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B4WEDI
Does that mean I should be running the HW heater also to keep that water from freezing ?
If you have water in your trailer, yes run the water heater. A water heater full of water that freezes will split the tank open. Heating the water is the best way to prevent that. The small amount of propane used to heat the water is cheap compaired to replacing the water heater
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Old 02-03-2007, 10:55 PM   #37
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Thanx Richard, I'll keep an eye on that fo' sho' !
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Old 02-03-2007, 11:32 PM   #38
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Just like in a house, a heat pump is designed to be a complimentary source of heat.
They are very efficient when the temps are above 40 degrees F.
The ceramic heater/heat pump combo works well when you do not want to burn a lot of propane and you are in a campground where you are paying for the electricity already.
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Old 02-04-2007, 05:01 AM   #39
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Got it, Coming from Cold Country, 40 degrees is warm, who needs heat ? Put on a sweater !
I never heard of a heat pump !

Sounds like it ought to do more than it does, But, I believe now, it is doing just what it was designed to do.
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Old 02-04-2007, 12:22 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster
If you have water in your trailer, yes run the water heater. A water heater full of water that freezes will split the tank open. Heating the water is the best way to prevent that. The small amount of propane used to heat the water is cheap compaired to replacing the water heater
Just attended a maintenance seminar two days ago. If the heater is less than 1/3 full, you don't havet o worry about freezing. There were tests by the heater manufacturer that proved this. They ran tests down to way below freezing.

This means that you don't have to go to any great length to get all of the water out of the heater.

ALSO, there is a new (more expensive) water heater out that will deliver more than 6 gallons of hot water. The water is heated much hotter than at present and there is a mixing valve that mixes in a measured amount of cold water so that the output is similar to today's heaters. Good news for those who want a long shower.
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