How much Tow vehicle for a Sport 16rb?

[Shiny16]

Originally Posted by mkcurtiss

You can pull a 16' with grandmas 1982 Marquis Station wagon.....(in fact, it will pull it pretty darn well)

You dont need to start worrying about TV until you get to about a 25'...then things get more complicated.....

But even then, you probably do not need a fancy hitch, unless you try to tow it with a miniature truck or some other small lightweight vehicle that is just not a good tow vehicle for anything.

Having said that, be forewarned about tow ratings on vehicle labels......about 50% of those ratings are pure bs.......yes the vehicle will move forward with that much weight behind it, but it will tear it up and it is many times not safe.
Forget about horsepower and torque......those are actually of very little importance......the biggest numbers to worry about, are actual vehicle weight. Lightweight vehicles suck at towing heavy loads. end of story. Heavy vehicles do it with ease.
I once had an e 350 van with a straight six, only had 165 hp...but the vehicle was heavy and stable.....that thing would haul anything safely......yes it was slow, but it was safe......

Also remember, there is no need to go buy a brand new vehicle to haul a camper.....plenty of good used vehicles out there, for a fraction of the new price.....like 60-70% less than the new price, and they are still great tow vehicles. Especially the Fords, but stay away from the 5.4 engines......nasty problems.

Maybe it’s me but I don’t quite follow here. What’s a small vehicle? And will it tow a 23 that weighs 6000 pounds without weight distribution? Should I not worry because the 23 is not 25?

[AlbertF]

Originally Posted by WhereStream

We had a 16, and I was surprised that our Suburban (2004, 5.3 liter, 4-speed auto) definitely knew it was back there.

It wasn't so much the weight but the sheer size of the front, which is the same size as most other Airstreams.

Even though the Airstreams are streamlined, you are still pulling a small billboard through the air. That applies to the 16, too.

So you need a certain amount of muscle to do it well.

This is worth emphasizing! There are basically three Airstream widths - 7'3.25" (the 22FB until 2019); 8' (most older Airstreams,and the current 16, 19, new 22 and 23' trailers; 8'5.5" (most larger Airstreams starting in the 1980s).

On a level highway at a steady speed, virtually all of the resistance is aerodynamic. Your tow vehicle drivetrain doesn't "know" the difference between a 5,000 lb Airstream and a 9,000 lb Airstream. That's why fuel economy generally doesn't change with a heavier trailer.

Aero drag requires horsepower to overcome it. To pull an Airstream at 60 mph, 90 hp to 100 hp is a comfortable minimum to allow some power to deal with moderate grades without constantly downshifting. Most people don't want to listen to an engine turning at more than about 3,000 rpm. This means you want to have a torque output of about 160 - 180 lbs-ft, to have an engine that makes a comfortable amount of horsepower at around 3,000 rpm.

That's it. That's all the torque and power you need to tow an Airstream. Accelerating and hill climbing can be handled through torque multiplication, aka gearing.

You could spend time doing gearing and torque calculations and using an online aero drag calculator to explore what is involved. I have, and have confirmed these numbers with practical experience.

In general, a non-turbo engine of at least 2.5 litres displacement will do the job for an Airstream. (A conventional trailer needs at least 3.0, litres, I'd say.) We are seeing a lot of 2.0 four cylinder engines that make at least 250 lbs-ft of torque with turbocharging. Great for accelerating, but I'm still wondering about what happens to fuel economy and engine life when you use constant boost to maintain highway speed.

The rest is mainly about ensuring you have sufficient payload capacity to handle tongue weight, along with a sufficiently stiff receiver and a good weight distributing setup.

[Airlock]

When we were considering our purchase of a 2019 16'rb Bambi, we also realized that we would need a TV that would tow it; which was not what we had. So, not wanting a P/U we got a 2015 Range Rover Sport (6 cylinder turbocharged with 8 speed automatic and full time 4WD), had a dealer hitch and 7 way installed and it has worked out really well for us. The RR is rated with a 6,600# towing capacity and it's air suspension system levels things out nicely. Takes the mountain passes (up and down) with power to spare and stops too. There is one down side to a RR (or any SUV for that matter) as a TV; you can't open the tail gate door when hitched up. Not enough room for the door to rotate outwards.

[Shiny16]

Originally Posted by Airlock

When we were considering our purchase of a 2019 16'rb Bambi, we also realized that we would need a TV that would tow it; which was not what we had. So, not wanting a P/U we got a 2015 Range Rover Sport (6 cylinder turbocharged with 8 speed automatic and full time 4WD), had a dealer hitch and 7 way installed and it has worked out really well for us. The RR is rated with a 6,600# towing capacity and it's air suspension system levels things out nicely. Takes the mountain passes (up and down) with power to spare and stops too. There is one down side to a RR (or any SUV for that matter) as a TV; you can't open the tail gate door when hitched up. Not enough room for the door to rotate outwards.

My 2015 v6 Jeep Grand Cherokee works great with my 16 Caravell and you can operate the rear door/hatch.

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by Airlock

When we were considering our purchase of a 2019 16'rb Bambi, we also realized that we would need a TV that would tow it; which was not what we had. So, not wanting a P/U we got a 2015 Range Rover Sport (6 cylinder turbocharged with 8 speed automatic and full time 4WD), had a dealer hitch and 7 way installed and it has worked out really well for us. The RR is rated with a 6,600# towing capacity and it's air suspension system levels things out nicely. Takes the mountain passes (up and down) with power to spare and stops too. There is one down side to a RR (or any SUV for that matter) as a TV; you can't open the tail gate door when hitched up. Not enough room for the door to rotate outwards.

Airlock, I think I read somewhere on this forum that there is a folding jack. That may be an option for you.

[mkcurtiss]

Originally Posted by JJTX

This is really poor advice. " Not worrying " put's a lot of people in the ditch. And instead of saying " worried ", a more accurate term would be 'educated' on the complex nature of towing high profile RVs .

I would tend to doubt you would pull your listed trailer with a small SUV or small truck.

If I had a tiny camper I would tow it with whatever I wanted to....tthats the point.....it really is not rocket science. YOu apparently do not remember (or possibly never knew)the Airstreams were designed to be towed with the family wagon......do a little research.

[mkcurtiss]

These posts with all this dramatic info about "high profile yadda yadda, yadda"......
...In case you did not notice, the Airstream Travel Trailer is built in such a way as to minimize the impact of air pressure.....(the round part does that)

There is scarcely any noticable drag associated with wind resistance, not to mention that aerodynamic drag does not even come in to play until we get over 55 mph, and most of us that have half a brain are not driving over 65, so the impact of air resistance is minimal....when pulling an Airstream.....now if you are pulling some piece of crap square camper then its all different, but we are talking about Airstreams on here.....

Its amazing the amount of misinformation people throw out in order to try to look smart.....

If you get up to a 23, 25' airstream, you will need a bigger vehicle.....26, 27, 30', even bigger.....But a Bambi?.......Hook it up and go. Use good sense when driving, and if you use a smaller vehicle, use some sway control device, but thats easy......


You can pull a Bambi with a Toyota Tacoma or a full or mid size suv all day long without a problem. Anyone that tells you anything different is either stupid, deceptive, or on some kind of trip to bolster their otherwise deficient self image.....

[mkcurtiss]

Additionally, the post about "aero drag " is total bunk......pulling an Airstream uphill, and up steep hills, has absolutely nothing to do with aerodynamics.....Aero drag does not even come into the equation until you are over 55 mph.....and you are not likely going over 55 going up steep hills...The one thing that does matter, is sheer weight. Amazing the stuff I see on here....

Just as a qualifier, I have towed heavy loads on every kind of trailer known, for 10's of thousands of miles, in every kind of weather known, and under every kind of circumstance, from camper, to equipment, to flat front, to streamlined...... for the last 35 years......

Amazing the pure bs that gets thrown about....

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by mkcurtiss

Airstreams were designed to be towed with the family wagon......do a little research.

Yes, they WERE designed to be towed with the 1968 family wagon--in 1968. You still CAN tow a 1968 Airstream with a 1968 family wagon. I would very strongly advise against attempting to to a 2020 28' Airstream with a 1968 family wagon.
Today's Tahoe, Expedition, Sequoia, et al are today's family wagon, and most of them are capable of towing a 2020 28' Airstream.
Apples to apples.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Andrew T

Hello

If you would like to save a lot of money and drive something you like you can easily tow the 16 with your Sante Fe. It does need the hitch reinforced to do it properly but once that is done and you have a proper weight distribution you won't have any issues with it. It will be most likely be more stable in winds etc than the tear drop.

It has some other advantages as well it is much more maneuverable than a F150. Backing up a short trailer with a long tow vehicle is much harder than backing up with a short tow vehicle.

We have several customers with Sante Fe's, they are a popular vehicle so people come in often that already own them. Most are towing trailers that are considerably harder to tow than the 16' Airstream.

Below is an article from 3 years ago.

https://rvlifemag.com/4-cylinder-tow...le-comparison/

I hope this helps.

Andy

And in what seems all too often to be the case, good advice gets trampled over in the chaos.

[Silvr_Bullet]

For some good towing of the 1950’s watch Lucille Ball n’ Desi Arnas “The Long, Long Trailer”, great movie.

[mkcurtiss]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Yes, they WERE designed to be towed with the 1968 family wagon--in 1968. You still CAN tow a 1968 Airstream with a 1968 family wagon. I would very strongly advise against attempting to to a 2020 28' Airstream with a 1968 family wagon.
Today's Tahoe, Expedition, Sequoia, et al are today's family wagon, and most of them are capable of towing a 2020 28' Airstream.
Apples to apples.

Agree totally...but you can tow a 2019 bambi with the station wagon, and that was the point, as per the op.....

[splat matt]

We are also planning to get a 16RB

We have a 2019 2.5L I4 Chevy Colorado 770# tongue and 3500# tow (SAE J2807 tested). We are planning to get either a 2019/20 16RB. The hitch is beefier rated 8k/800 so our only limit is the engine power which restricts us at 3500# tow. GM engineers say I’m fine and we tow 60 mph at tops. The transmission is the same as used in the diesel version which tows 7700#.

My question is we have never needed a WDH (on other trailers) what should I get? 6000/600 because the max weight for 16RB is 3500# and at 15% for tongue that would be 525#. What brand of WDH too?

[SilverWind]

You can go fairly deep into the Airstream trailer range with a Ford F150, RAM 1500 etc (with factory tow package and Equalizer hitch).

Most or many of us moved up to larger Airstreams within a couple of years of buying our cute little entry model. Getting a well equipped half ton truck will assure tow vehicle future proofing.

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by splat matt

We are also planning to get a 16RB

We have a 2019 2.5L I4 Chevy Colorado 770# tongue and 3500# tow (SAE J2807 tested). We are planning to get either a 2019/20 16RB. The hitch is beefier rated 8k/800 so our only limit is the engine power which restricts us at 3500# tow. GM engineers say I’m fine and we tow 60 mph at tops. The transmission is the same as used in the diesel version which tows 7700#.

My question is we have never needed a WDH (on other trailers) what should I get? 6000/600 because the max weight for 16RB is 3500# and at 15% for tongue that would be 525#. What brand of WDH too?

Some will advise that you don't need WDH, they may be right, all depends on what side of careful you want to be. I had an equalizer with I think was 600 lb bars, that worked fine, I since have purchased a Hensley and I am happy with that also. Some also talk about older 16' Sports, they were also lighter. Personally I feel you are better off with some WDH, but I assure you will be hearing from others on not having WDH. BTW good luck with your new to purchase Airstream. I also would seriously consider TPMS.

[Halford1]

Yes I tow without WDH and do not need it. Been towing 3500# pop up for 25 years and now 1st year with AS. Feels similar while towing. Just be wise with weight distribution inside AS. Put heavier stuff front of the axle and lighter in rear.

[out of sight]

Originally Posted by splat matt

We are also planning to get a 16RB

We have a 2019 2.5L I4 Chevy Colorado 770# tongue and 3500# tow (SAE J2807 tested). We are planning to get either a 2019/20 16RB. The hitch is beefier rated 8k/800 so our only limit is the engine power which restricts us at 3500# tow. GM engineers say I’m fine and we tow 60 mph at tops. The transmission is the same as used in the diesel version which tows 7700#.

My question is we have never needed a WDH (on other trailers) what should I get? 6000/600 because the max weight for 16RB is 3500# and at 15% for tongue that would be 525#. What brand of WDH too?

If the numbers you gave are correct then you don't need a weight distribution hitch. Note that a WD hitch is not a safety device. It should only be used if you exceed rear axle or payload limits, which it appears you don't. Transferring weight off the rear axle is not desirable as it will make your rig more prone to oversteer and jackknifing in a hard break and swerve emergency.

[SilverWind]

Originally Posted by out of sight

If the numbers you gave are correct then you don't need a weight distribution hitch. Note that a WD hitch is not a safety device. It should only be used if you exceed rear axle or payload limits, which it appears you don't. Transferring weight off the rear axle is not desirable as it will make your rig more prone to oversteer and jackknifing in a hard break and swerve emergency.

WDHs like Equalizer have built in sway control which is highly recommended on all Airstreams by most who own Airstreams. You'll be glad you have WDH with sway control during an evasive maneuver, high winds or sudden and hard braking. It will help you maintain control.

[out of sight]

Originally Posted by SilverWind

WDHs like Equalizer have built in sway control which is highly recommended on all Airstreams by most who own Airstreams. You'll be glad you have WDH with sway control during an evasive maneuver, high winds or sudden and hard braking. It will help you maintain control.

Your trailer won't sway or oscillate out of control as long as you maintain 10% hitch weight. If you do get a disturbance such as a side wind the tow vehicle will pull it quickly back into line, as long as your tow vehicle has enough inertia (weight) compared to the trailer. Some people use sway control devices but that is mainly to make them feel more secure. They do little for actual safety. And don't forget, most modern vehicles have ESC which will save you in an extreme event such as having your trailer hit on the side in an accident.

As for the hard brake and swerve scenario I would have to disagree. You need more weight on the rear axle.

[splat matt]

Right now my when I load my truck and hitch a trailer with a 300# tongue weight the rear doesn’t drop - definitely less than a 1/2”. Based on responses, I’ll tow with without a WDH to a couple local (Ohio) campgrounds and then go to SE Ohio where it is hilly to get a feel prior to any longer trips that might add grade, traffic and weather issues.

We use IKEA duffles bags for our gear. Each one is labeled accordingly to kitchen, bathroom, tools, water gear, setup, etc. This allows us to weigh each bag with a luggage scale so we know how much weight we have added and to properly distribute the weight in the trailer for port/starboard balance and maintain proper tongue weight. I then have a HaulGauge which plugs into the OBD II port of the TV so I know my TV payload, TV weight, Trailer weight and tongue weight.

My interpretation is a WDH in this weight category is needed for SUVs as they tend to have more weight on the rear axle than a truck and/or if the tow vehicle rear is sagging significantly. Is that correct?

Also thank you to everyone sharing info!