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Old 01-20-2017, 08:01 AM   #1
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Dometic 3-way Fridge in 22 Sport

Has anyone used their Dometic 3-way Fridge on DC power ? Mine works fine on propane and AC, but when it is selected to run from DC it blows the 3 amp fuse. I have it at the dealer and they are telling me it is blowing the fuse on DC when the trailer is connected to shore power. Can this be correct ? Just want to see if anyone else had this type of issue. Thanks.
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Old 01-21-2017, 11:51 AM   #2
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If you are on shore power, shouldn't it be on electric, not DC?

Am I missing something.

It is my understanding that DC would be chosen if you were running on battery only and did not want to run on propane.
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Old 01-21-2017, 12:29 PM   #3
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Dometic 3-way Fridge in 22 Sport

Replace the fuse.
Unplug the trailer and see if it works
3 amps would not be enough to power a heating element.
It could be a control board problem.
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Old 01-22-2017, 02:28 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
Replace the fuse.
Unplug the trailer and see if it works
3 amps would not be enough to power a heating element.
It could be a control board problem.
I'm having the dealer service come out and take a look at it. Something is def. not right.

I think the 22 sport is the only model that comes with the the 3 way fridge. You wouldn't want to do an initial cool down using the battery setting, but we really enjoy having the fridge on when traveling to the next camp site without using propane.
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Old 01-22-2017, 02:51 PM   #5
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We never found the three way workable on12VDC. There just never seemed to be enough voltage at the trailer when under way, which is the reason the 12VDC is provided. The heating element consumes quite a few amps so it is not really an option when Parked.
Non-the-less you have some sort of problem not related to voltage since the heating element is resistive and amps go down if voltage is low, so that would not blow a fuse. I get the impression from your post, the fuse blows when switched to DC...immediately? Then is is a short some where in the heating element circuit.
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Old 01-22-2017, 03:30 PM   #6
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We have used the D.C., AC and the propane on our fridge (2015 22FB Sport) with no problem. The D.C. Does use a lot of power and will deplete the battery in a couple of hours. I have also used the D.C. While towing with no issue. Since the D.C. Is completely separate from the AC there should be no reason to blow the fuse when plugged to shore power and using the DC mode on the fridge.
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Old 01-22-2017, 10:26 PM   #7
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Be certain that the fuse "type" is correct! There are several types for a particular current requirement.

Standard auto fuses are usually quick blow. That is as soon as, in your case, 3 amps is reached pop!

But when the DC circuit engages the peak in-rush of current could be above the 3 amp level if only for a few miliseconds. A slow blow fuse would withstand the in-rush but still protect the fridge and the trailer.

Double check the spec for the fuse in the owners manual. Somebody may have used the wrong fuse.

Stay cool.
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Old 01-24-2017, 04:27 AM   #8
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Thanks for the input guys. Airstream is sending a tech out. I'll post up what the he finds.
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Old 01-31-2017, 10:13 AM   #9
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JCWDCW, the amps do not go down when the voltage drops. The amps goes UP when the voltage drops. (which may explain why the fuse blows... insufficient voltage at the refer.... fuses react to Amps.)

Volts times Amps equals Watts. VA=W
So if volts go down, amps must increase.
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Old 02-01-2017, 12:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
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JCWDCW, the amps do not go down when the voltage drops. The amps goes UP when the voltage drops. (which may explain why the fuse blows... insufficient voltage at the refer.... fuses react to Amps.)

Volts times Amps equals Watts. VA=W
So if volts go down, amps must increase.
Your formula is correct for a reactive load like a Motor. Fridge heater is resistive. To control power on a resistive load you reduce voltage. Remember how the flashlight gets dimmer as the battery wears down.
OHM's Law V=IR thus I ( which is what the fuse controls) = V/R...lower V lower amps
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