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Old 04-08-2018, 06:23 PM   #1
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2018 22' Sport
Rio Rancho , New Mexico
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 11
Anyone else have problems with heat in the cabin?

Ok here is the scenario: We are in Southern New Mexico and enjoying our Sport 22FB and the outside temperature is about 75 degrees with pretty low humidity. It's late afternoon, about 4:30pm to 5:00pm, and the dinner hour is around the
corner.
So...it's time to fix dinner and the dinner involves the Cusinart Microwave. Cabin temperature at the time of starting the dinner cooking is about 70 to 71 degrees (Farenheit). After cooking a Microwave meal for about 5 to 7minutes, the Air Conditioning unit (running on the highest setting possible!) the cabin raised to 77 and eventually settled around 78!

Anyone else experienced this problem? If so are there any solutions short of cooking all meals outside?? Dining out when its hot? Cold dinners? Just seems that if we went on a trip to the Southern Tier of States where the temperature AND the humidity is quite high-the dinner hour may be a PROBLEM!!

Thanks for chiming in... this was our second excursion in our "newerish" AS and want to be smart owners but want to be informed to "what to expect."

Thanks
Doug
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Old 04-08-2018, 06:45 PM   #2
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2016 28' International
Sioux Falls , SD
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Welcome to the AS family !

You at a campground? If so, check the power coming in to ensure the 30AMP is actually 30AMPs!

There may be not enough amps and the A/C kicked off the compressor when you turned on the Microwave?

Many places are known for low amps and they can destroy your appliances.

My 2cents.

Good luck!

Dan
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Old 04-08-2018, 07:01 PM   #3
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2018 22' Sport
Rio Rancho , New Mexico
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Great question on the amps. We were at a KOA which this particular one has a pretty good reputation.However, if we were to check the amps how would one do that ??? What would be a telling factor in determining one place to stay versus another?? Inquiring minds....again thanks
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Old 04-08-2018, 07:11 PM   #4
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2016 28' International
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Without a meter I think you are out of luck.

Are there a lot of campers? If there are then the system may be overloaded (under powering).

We carry these and hook them up in all campgrounds for just THAT reason.

https://www.amazon.com/Surge-Guard-1...oltage+booster
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Old 04-08-2018, 08:19 PM   #5
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2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Longmont , Colorado
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Welcome to Airforums, and to Airstreaming.

Since you are newerish, here's a quick electrical tutorial.

Your 120volt electrical system can handle 30 amps. If you add up all the electric loads in the trailer, it is more than that. So you have to be thoughtful about what things you turn on at the same time.

The air conditioner uses about half of the 30 amps. It is your biggest load.
Your fridge uses maybe two or three.
Your built-in battery charger ("converter") uses several amps when you first plug in, if the battery is low, then slows down.
Many Airstreams have gas/electric water heaters, which use about eight amps (but I think your trailer is gas only?)
The microwave depends on the model, but is probably in the range of 8-15.

In my trailer, I'll pop the breaker every time if I run the AC, water heater, and microwave together. Actually, I usually pop two: The main 30 amp breaker in the trailer and the one on the pole. So if you do pop either one, and things still don't work when you reset it, remember to check the other.
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Old 04-09-2018, 06:35 AM   #6
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2017 25' International
Niagara-on-the-Lake , ON Canada
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AC Line Meter

Quote:
Originally Posted by drhodes22 View Post
Great question on the amps. We were at a KOA which this particular one has a pretty good reputation.However, if we were to check the amps how would one do that ??? What would be a telling factor in determining one place to stay versus another?? Inquiring minds....again thanks
Low voltage can often cause damage to high draw devices like your air conditioner. In over simplified terms, if the voltage drops too low the device draws more amps at that low voltage to try and meet it's needs.

Many campgrounds have inadequate electricity distribution systems, especially when demand is high (e.g. full campground, hot weather.) You can check to see if it safe to use your air conditioner by checking the AC voltage. I wouldn't run my air conditioner below about 110 volts, but preferable closer to 120 volts.

A Surge Guard display will give you the voltage going into your trailer, but are expensive. I use one and would recommend it. However an inexpensive AC Line Meter for a little over $30 and plugged in to any outlet in the trailer after hooked up to park power pedestal will check for correct polarity and AC Voltage.

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Old 04-09-2018, 11:01 AM   #7
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Grayslake , Illinois
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I also noticed this in my 2016 Bambi. There is no venting of the microwave/convection oven to the outside. It all goes through the cabinet under the sink and back into the cabin. I cook outside most of the time and always when it is hot and steamy outside.
K
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Old 04-13-2018, 10:25 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Free bird View Post
I also noticed this in my 2016 Bambi. There is no venting of the microwave/convection oven to the outside. It all goes through the cabinet under the sink and back into the cabin. I cook outside most of the time and always when it is hot and steamy outside.
K
The Original Poster did not claim his AC kicked off-line...he complained the temperature increased during his microwaving experience. Freebird points out the reason.

We replaced our OEM M/W with a Samsung Convection M/W and it gets so hot when roasting or baking that it kicks-off it's internal breaker/thermister. The heat from the M/W also heats up the cabin and cabinetry so.... I'm having a local sheet metal fabricator make a "box" to surround the M/W and a duct will be attached to the rear to vent the heat up/out the referigerator vent. I will also install a dedicated exhaust fan for the enclosure.

It's a shame that RV mfr's don't already do this.

Also, be reminded that cooking in the trailer places a humidity-burden on the interior which can cause damage as well as encourage mold. Run your exhaust fan or Fantastic Fan while cooking (and/or showering with the bathroom window cracked-open a bit.)
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Old 04-15-2018, 05:18 PM   #9
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2016 28' International
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxite View Post
The Original Poster did not claim his AC kicked off-line...he complained the temperature increased during his microwaving experience. Freebird points out the reason.

We replaced our OEM M/W with a Samsung Convection M/W and it gets so hot when roasting or baking that it kicks-off it's internal breaker/thermister. The heat from the M/W also heats up the cabin and cabinetry so.... I'm having a local sheet metal fabricator make a "box" to surround the M/W and a duct will be attached to the rear to vent the heat up/out the referigerator vent. I will also install a dedicated exhaust fan for the enclosure.

It's a shame that RV mfr's don't already do this.

Also, be reminded that cooking in the trailer places a humidity-burden on the interior which can cause damage as well as encourage mold. Run your exhaust fan or Fantastic Fan while cooking (and/or showering with the bathroom window cracked-open a bit.)


With adequate power supply why would the A/C not maintain temperature?

Is this a short duration in time for the temp spike?

I Agree with your suggestion for operating the fan while cooking!
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Old 04-15-2018, 05:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhodes22 View Post
... the outside temperature is about 75 degrees with pretty low humidity. It's late afternoon, about 4:30pm to 5:00pm ... After cooking a Microwave meal for about 5 to 7minutes, the Air Conditioning unit (running on the highest setting possible!) the cabin raised to 77 and eventually settled around 78!
For several days I have restrained myself from responding, but ...

With that outside temperature and low humidity, opening all of the windows and the ceiling vent and/or fan would probably keep the inside temperature at a very reasonable level without straining the AC or electrical system of the trailer.

Tim
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Old 04-15-2018, 07:00 PM   #11
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For reference, 1000 watts is equivalent to about 3400 BTU. While most of the energy consumed by the oven is heating what you are cooking, that still radiates heat which ends up in the trailer. The big front burner on the cooktop full on is 9000 BTU. The 22 has a fairly small volume and heat will build up fast.

Al
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Old 05-23-2018, 01:37 AM   #12
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Bend , Oregon
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There is some great advice about power above but since you are new to the unit I thought I would throw out there that the AC unit in our Bambi has flaps on the front, back, and sides that the air comes out of. It also has a slider on the horizontal surface(bottom of unit). It is possible for all of these flaps to be closed and the cold air not getting out very well.
If your unit has these the flaps and slider make sure they are open.
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Old 05-23-2018, 06:47 AM   #13
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Im having a hard time understanding why you would want to be closed up inside a small trailer with the ac running when it's only 71 outside? Your weather scenario would have us with open windows and door.
Yes the microwave does exhaust all its heat back into the cabin, I think much more if on convection if thats the case.
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Old 05-24-2018, 05:39 PM   #14
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2018 22' Sport
Rio Rancho , New Mexico
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Temperatures in and out!

Alan,
to respond to your question, this was an "Estimate" of the temperature-it probably was closer to 79 or 80 so it was quite warm, especially for early in the season.

And to the other poster who asked if we had all the opening open on the A/C unit--- yes we did have ALL of them open.(born at night not last night) ...sorry it got QUITE warm very quickly in the Bambi and all we were doing was using the microwave. I do think whoever posted that the warm from the microwave vents into the cabin had it right---GREAT for the winter/fall---not so great for above 75 degrees!! Live and Learn....
Thanks
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